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FIXED 795.74023410 Kenmore Elite Icing Behind Fresh Food Bin

Fruit Loops

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Arizona
Model Number
795.74023410
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
OK, so I know this "r-dh" is a common error code on these ref. and i've gone back thru the threads here and located the same issues with the same model #'s. I did print out a troubleshooting guide listed by rickgburton (moderator) dated 10-2016. Apparently the ref. changed a lot from 2015-2016. Using the test button to get the "33-33" code proved impossible. I get "22-22" code when pressed three times and a "88-88" code when pressed five times. Also the connectors for the defrost heater, def sensor and fume are not the same. The connector blocks are rotated 90 Degrees and the wire colors don't match.

This got me to thinking...Just because my refrigerator evaporator/ductwork is icing up doesn't mean that the actual ref. evaporator is causing it, does it? Is the freezer evaporator icing up the ductwork and blocking the drain and causing the defrost to melt into the space below the fresh food drawer? Is this why my connector doesn't match? Should I be looking at the freezer evaporator sensor and fuse? In either case I cannot get voltage at Conn-3 in any mode.

I've never dealt with refrigerators yet so please bear with me. I have taken care of most all my appliances except refrigerators.

Thanks, Mike
 

Jake

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Hi Mike,

Here's Rick troubleshooting guide:
Rick said this: Locate CONN3 on the board and measure the voltage between the orange wire and the blue wire. If the voltage is 0 replace the main board.

This one is for your model you can order here:
Main Control Board EBR78940615


Jake
 

Jake

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Since yours is a different model and the wire colors are not the same, you will need to access your tech data sheet for your specific model.

Rick said:
Every appliance comes with a tech sheet and it's always stored somewhere on the appliance. It contains the wiring diagram and other important information on that model like steps to get into service mode or the definition of error codes. However, manufacturers like to play a game with the service techs called "Let's see if you can find it this time". Some of the more common places are, under a hinge cover, behind the lower grill or kick plate, taped to the bottom of the machine, or inside a control panel housing. If you're the original owner and it's never had any service done on it, the tech sheet is there somewhere. If you ever had a service company work on the machine then there's a good chance the tech sheet went home with the tech. Here's where Whirlpool puts them:
(click to enlarge)
Tech Sheet Locations.jpg

Jake
 

Fruit Loops

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Aug 26, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Arizona
Doesn’t the refrigerator have to be in this “33-33” code or whatever the code is for my ref. to accurately check that voltage. My tech sheet doesn’t reveal any such diagnosis or instr. to get a specific code. My wire colors don’t seem to match the schematic either so i’m not sure if it’s a proprietary thing or a stupid thing on my part???
 

Fruit Loops

Premium Member
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Aug 26, 2019
Messages
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Location
Arizona
These connections are over the evap in the ref compartment. The red wires in the yellow connector go INTO each end of the evap coil. Do they just pull out? Are they the temp sensors? Do I leave them alone and change the other two items on the other connectors.F9F5AEB1-36B1-4DAD-B233-EEB546512A0D.jpeg3D685568-E4E9-4373-9792-67F3664E96F6.jpeg
 

Jake

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I have no clue without seeing your wiring diagram, sorry.

I can ask our tech bigbuck and Rick to see if they have it.

Jake
 

Jake

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Thanks bigbuck!

There you go Fruit Loops, the service manual will tell you exactly how to test it to determine the bad part.

Page 23 r-dh: Refrigerator Defrosting Error
Even though it is passed 80 Minute since then Defrosting, If Defrosting sensor is not Over 55.4 °F(13 °C), it is caused.

Causes:
Temperature Fuse
Heater
DRAIN Jam
Poor Relay for Heater

I'd Ohm test your defrost sensor controller. Unplug your refrigerator first.

Here's how: Remove the defrost sensor controller from the refrigerator side evaporator. Put the sensor inside a small glass and fill it with crushed ice, then just enough water to cover it. LG sensors have a slow response time so leave it in the ice water for five minutes then measure its resistance. At 32*F the sensor should be at 30K ohms, +/- 5%.

Here's the defrost sensor controller for your model you can order if yours tests bad:
6615JB2005R Controller Assembly


Jake
 

Fruit Loops

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So what are the leads (both red) that go INTO each end of the evap tube? I can see the sensor and what looks like it might be the heater, but those in the tube are a mystery.

Thanks for all this info! I do believe the motherboard is bad anyway, i just want to verify any other parts.
 

Jake

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Looks like those two read leads are for the Sheath Heater on Page 79.

Jake
 

Fruit Loops

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Messages
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Location
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Hi Mike,

Here's Rick troubleshooting guide:
Rick said this: Locate CONN3 on the board and measure the voltage between the orange wire and the blue wire. If the voltage is 0 replace the main board.

This one is for your model you can order here:
Main Control Board EBR78940615


Jake
Hi Jake, I am back to my troubleshooting....well actually the board is bad as well as the sensor in the frig compartment which I did order. I did go to the hyperlink for this board (EBR789406-15) but I checked the "Does this part fit my model" button and it says NO! And with out the option to return it, I hesitate to order it. do you know what the (15) suffix represents at the end of the number?
 

Jake

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Jake

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It should fix it @Fruit Loops

Do you hear the fan inside the refrigerator section running?

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, then yes the new PCB board should definity fix it, keep us posted.

Jake
 

Fruit Loops

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Messages
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Location
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OK Jake and everyone else on this thread, it's been about two weeks now since I installed the new controller assy. and the new PCB board. I have observed NO icing at this point! I have checked the temps with my temp-gun and there are various temps throughout the refrigerator compartment that range from 36* to 40* (while set at 37*) top to bottom in different places. The coldest point I measured was at the lower left side back section where it ranged from 34*-32* which is where the evaporator coil is located. I would like to wait a little while longer before calling it "FIXED" because any icing would have to plug the drain, and then if it iced it would show itself quickly. But this certainly does look good, so thanks to all. (y)
 

Jake

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Sounds good Mike, that's certainly good news.:)

Come back and let us know in early 2020 and we will mark it FIXED.

Jake
 

Jake

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Excellent Mike, glad to hear that. (y)

Thanks for the update!

I marked it as FIXED!

Jake
 
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