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80 series gas dryer not starting, or starts for only seconds

littleroot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
25
Location
Bay Area
Model Number
110.72852100
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
80 series gas dryer only runs for a few seconds. Afterward, continued presses on the start button yields only a click/click sound.

Any ideas?

Thank you,
-Bob
 

littleroot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
25
Location
Bay Area
Tried that

Can you make the motor run again? Try it on a different cycle.

Thanks for the reply, Rick.Yes, unfortunately it does the same thing on any setting. Saw a youtube video which pointed to the thermal fuse but in it the symptoms were not entirely identical.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
44,790
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
It's not the thermal fuse or it wouldn't run for a second each time you try it. Is that what it's doing?
 

littleroot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
25
Location
Bay Area
Wow, OK

What it is doing is if you push the start button and release it sounds like "click-click". When we came back in the morning we pushed the start button again the dryer started but then stopped after about five seconds. Further pushes on the button resulted in no start, just the "click-click" again.
 

rickgburton

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OK, it sounds like you may have a bad motor. Use a multimeter to check for 110 VAC between the M1 and M4 on the motor switch. If you have a 110 VAC when you push start the motor is probably bad. See how hard it is to turn with the belt off. Should turn fairly easy.
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littleroot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
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Location
Bay Area
HI, I got it torn apart last night and cleaned up and ready to do the test. Because of a small hole in the lint screen there was a lot of lint down in the motor area and on the motor. I blew it out with an air hose and made sure the motor would turn with my hand. If I give it a flick turn the motor does not continue to spin, i.e., there is resistance. I'm not sure if that is normal.

In any event...

I am not at home now but if I remember right there is a connector with four wires coming off the motor. I did not see any labels for M1, M4, etc.

Any more advice you can send my way?

Thanks so much,
-Bob
 

rickgburton

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It's labeled on the back side of the switch and front but you have to look hard. The motor should turn freely. It sounds like may be a bearing issue. Make sure nothing is caught inside the blower housing or in the blower.
 

rickgburton

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Messages
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4M is a light blue wire. 5M is a white and blue wire. 6M is a black wire.
 

rickgburton

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Well, we know when you push the start switch the motor is getting the 110 VAC to start it at 3M and 4M. When you turn it on (you don't have to start it) there should be 110 VAC between 4M and 5M and 4M and 6M. If that's correct then the motor is probably faulty.
 

littleroot

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Sep 22, 2007
Messages
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Location
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Sorry I feel like I'm missing something. Are you saying at all times those leads at the motor should have power, whether or not I push the start button, and if there is, the motor is dead?
 

littleroot

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Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
25
Location
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Hi, I am unable to find where to put the test leads.

OK, I plugged it in, connected the door switch, pressed the start button and the motor turns with no load. It then stopped after about 30 seconds. I hit the start button and it started again and ran for about five minutes. Then I put the drum in on the belt and the drum turned slower than normal and after a minute the motor strained and it stopped. So, motor?
 

littleroot

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Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
25
Location
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Dang, I tried removing the motor per the video and the blower fan nut broke apart. Video shows turning the pulley end clockwise while holding the blower nut. It said you may have to use force. Well, I did, and it shattered. I cannot even see how to remove the blower fan. Sigh
 

rickgburton

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