970-678533 Kenmore oven: Is there any electrical/functional connection between stovetop controls and center oven display control?

[sumguy]

Model Number

970-678533

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

I've got a 970-678533 Kenmore, and have had a lesser model previous to this, and I can tell that these ovens are all the same (mechanically / structurally) but have different features added or bolted to them (like center display controller, convection fan, etc). So my question really pertains to all of them because regardless how "fancy" the center display / controller / computer is, I'm looking at the schematic and I don't see any connection (electrical that is) between the display/controller and the front-panel cook-top dial controls. In other words, the cook top elements should be able to operate without the center display/controller plugged in.

The issue I'm having is the infamous "R1" resistor on the electrolux board blowing when I turn on a cooktop element. This is a 1/4 watt, 221 ohm resistor that seems to be permanently wired between the NC contact on the oven relay (the "big" relay) and the neutral line. The oven relay gets L2 power and switches it to the oven elements through the N/O contact. The N/C contact goes nowhere except to R1. I can't figure out how this works, since it means that R1 is seeing the neutral line on one side, and L2 on the other side, a difference of 120 volts. Since R1 is 221 ohms, that's about 1/2 an amp, which equates to 50 watts. R1 should blow immediately when the stove is plugged in. Unless I totally have R1 wrong - maybe it's 22k ?

So I have 2 questions here. What is the function of R1 (and what is it's value), and (2) should the cooktop be operational without the center display/controller plugged in.

Edit: another question - do these Kenmore stoves have any fusible links in the wiring (like some cars have) ?

 

[sumguy]

Ok, so yes, the cooktop is fully functional without the center control display plugged in. One of the breakers to the stove had tripped but it really didn't look like it did at the panel so I reset both of them, and now I get 120/240 at the stove (I was getting 120 across 1 line and 20 across the second line so that's when I knew a breaker had gone). With one of the breakers off nothing was working on the cooktop (but the warming zone did come on a little). After I replace R1 later today I'll know if everything is working (ie R1 will stop blowing or not).

 

[Jake]

Good job finding the problem with one of the two breakers tripped.

As far as the R1 resistor, we have no information on that, as Frigidaire does not supply the board schematics to tell us which each board component does per the circuit.

Good Luck replacing the R1 resistor.

Jake