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ABB2227DEW Amana Refrigerator Won't cool

baddew

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2023
Messages
10
Location
32619
Model Number
ABB2227DEW
Brand
Amana
Age
6-10 years
Got this seldom used refrigerator from son who said was working 6 mos ago but now won't blow cold air and barely blows air at all. Checked the start relay and since cheap replaced it and capacitor. Prior to replacing compressor was warm to touch when running and after replacing the compressor stayed cool but still no cold air coming into freezer and hardly anything circulating above.

Have checked the new as well as old capacitors and best I can tell the new one has resistance and old one not, so new one should be good but it rattles loudly; old one rattles faintly, Can't tell about caps since have cheap multimeter but appear good, not swollen. Tried testing compressor as detailed on u tube and get 0 on all three connections. Frige is old but looks like new and used less than 5 yrs; any thoughts on this, junk keep plugging at it.
 
Replaced leads on meter and retested compressor; got 4.9 on run, 6.0 on start and 11 on both, so guess that means it's good. So apparently compressor is not my problem right. Really hate to junk a frige in such nice shape.
 
So the compressor is warm, but NOT running at all?

Are you getting 120 volts at the compressor start relay?

Unplug your refrigerator first, then remove the compressor start relay , then remove those wires from the compressor start relay and put your meter probes in each wire connector that goes to the compressor start relay, then plug your refrigerator in and see if the volt meter reads 120 volts constant, leave the meter probes in those 2 wires for about 30-60 seconds.

(click to enlarge) I circled it in RED where you put your meter probes into.
Compressor Testing 2 (2).jpg

Here's the Compressor start relay device assembly for your model(It's the white part, not the black part):
W10613606 Compressor Start Device


That black part is the run capacitor, not the start capacitor, The only purpose of the run capacitor is to improve compressor operating efficiency, it has nothing to do with keeping the compressor running itself.

If you are getting 120 volts, next unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and ohm test your compressor start relay device:
R-start device.jpg
 
I've done everything here that u have written and even bought new start relay/cap. With old start/cap connected unit runs, compressor gets warm, then I installed new relay/cap and unit ran but compressor was cool/cold to touch. But inside never gets cold either way. Checked compressor lugs as stated in my post above and appears compressor is ok based on u tube. Biggest problem I see is that very little air circulation in freezer and almost non existent in fresh food area. Condenser fan is working but not sure of evap fan, but there is a very little air moving in freezer.

Not sure I understand this: then remove those wires from the compressor start relay and put your meter probes in each wire connector that goes to the compressor start relay, then plug your refrigerator in

Just connect probe to start relay laying on floor to see if 120 goes to it; do I remove cap or not. How can I test the relay if no power is going to it.
 
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Just had someone plug in unit while I had ear to compressor and the compressor started to run but I didn't hear a click like when the other fridges start. Also remove drawer in freezer to get closer to back and the air coming rom vent wouldn't blow a feather.
 
Tested both sets of start relay/cap and the relays both appear to be good. From top hole to top connector there was about 1.8 resistance and across bottom around 8 and pretty much the same for both. Don't know how to check cap with this cheap multimeter. The compressor was checked from top to right bottom and then top to left bottom and then bottom to bottom. 6, 4.9 and 11
 
Just had someone plug in unit while I had ear to compressor and the compressor started to run
So the compressor started to run and did it stay running? Did it start to get cold inside the freezer at all?

Let the compressor run for a couple hours and see if it starts getting cold in the freezer.

Biggest problem I see is that very little air circulation in freezer and almost non existent in fresh food area. Condenser fan is working but not sure of evap fan, but there is a very little air moving in freezer.
That sounds like a bad evaporator fan motor, but lets focus on the compressor first to see if the evaporator coil behind the back panel in the freezer gets cold.

Don't know how to check cap with this cheap multimeter.
A run capacitor helps the compressor run more efficiently and it's not really necessary. The compressor will run properly without it.

Its best to use a analog meter to ohm test any capacitor.

Look here:

 
I ran the unit for 10 hrs and when u hold ear to back wall it sounds like something is running from bottom to top but hardly any air at ll moving in fresh food area and nothing get cold or even cool. Just as hot at start as 10 hrs later. Compressor sounds and feels like something is moving thru it. At the very back of freezer it is very little air moving.

My other frig will blow the hair on your head. I don't need it now but my old unit is long in the tooth and my not last many more yrs and is why I got this unit, plus no cost to me. It has been worked on before and I have no idea what was done because back had been opened before and tape on couple of wires that would not come from factory like that.

Think the condenser fan may have been changed or repaired. I cleaned coils so they are not problem. Going to take apart evap housing and try then for better insight and then give up if nothing stands out, maybe tomorrow. Working on 3 different jobs at once but when you're 74 and retired u have to do something.

Question though? why with one relay/cap the compressor stays cold/cool and with other it gets slightly warm after several hours. And neither time when started does it kick and then runs but just starts purring very softly. If I could hear better I might be able to better diagnose it. One other thing are any of the coils off the compressor supposed to get hot or cold; seems I have been burned before by accidently touching an ac coil but these don't change temp.
 
Question though? why with one relay/cap the compressor stays cold/cool and with other it gets slightly warm after several hours. And neither time when started does it kick and then runs but just starts purring very softly.
One other thing are any of the coils off the compressor supposed to get hot or cold; seems I have been burned before by accidently touching an ac coil but these don't change temp.
That's a sealed system problem you have when that happens. It would cost more to fix than its worth, unfortunately.
 
So I took off the evap cover and plugged unit back in; fan works but coils do not change temp at all. I am just not 100% sure it's not the relay/cap or the compressor as the problem. My wife wants me to keep messing with it because it looks so nice and my son gave it to me from a house he flipped. Shouldn't cold from compressor go up into evap coils. thanks
 
Can the defrost thermostat switch be broken and now allow the unit to go into cooling mode.
 
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So I took off the evap cover and plugged unit back in; fan works but coils do not change temp at all.
If the compressor is running and you are seeing NO frost on the evaporator coil, then that ALWAYS indicates a sealed system problem.

Can the defrost thermostat switch be broken and now allow the unit to go into cooling mode.
No, because you said the compressor is running.:)
 
Sealed system problem mean blockage, leakage, or everything screwed up. My wife is the one pushing me to fix it, so if just a leak then I could repair and recharge, right. If not then definitely I'm gonna dump it. thanks

Think I got it; if leak is not right by compressor with easy fix, junk it. right
 
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Anytime!
 

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