ADE3LRGS171TW Speed Queen dryer stops heating after several mins but continues to cycle end

[AppliDave]

Model Number

ADE3LRGS171TW

Brand

Speed Queen

Age

6-10 years

I have a Speed Queen electric dryer that’s 8 years old. Recently after finishing a cycle the clothes would be damp and at room temp. I’ve checked the vent hose for any restrictions and there are none. I’ve replaced all 3 thermostats with no difference in performance. I put the clothes in and start a cycle, typically 40 mins. I open the door after a few minutes and the clothes are warm so the heating element is definitely working. However at the end of the 40 mins (or 30 mins) the clothes are damp and at room temp. The drying doesn’t stop spinning until the cycle is over. So the dryer spins the entire time, but it seems like the heat turns off after a few mins. If I let the dryer sit for a bit, it’ll repeat the anomaly, getting heat for the first few mins, then running to completion (but the clothes aren’t dry). I’ve thoroughly vacuumed the dryer of any lint or dust. At this point, internally it’s nearly as clean as when it left the factory. There isn’t a dust or link problem. The motor spins freely. The rollers are fine, the belt is fine. The fan is spotless.

The only thing I can figure is that the heating element has gone bad OR the mechanical timer control has gone bad. (I figure my controls are mechanical due to all the clicking I hear. I do not believe I have any kind of printed circuit board...). I don’t think I have any kind of moisture sensor... I’m figuring maybe the heating element when cool has continuity and heats up, but after a few mins of being hot there’s an expansion and continuity is lost so the heating elements doesn’t heat. When it cools back down, there’s contraction and contact and hence heat....

I’’ve already had the drying apart now 3 times. First just to vacuum everything inside and out and I mean everything. Next time was to replace the high limit and control thermostat. And finally the 3rd time to replace the thermal fuse.

I’d appreciate any advice on what the problem might be.
Thanks,

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Per the model number you posted this is a gas dryer or electric dryer?

I assume its electric since you mentioned heating element, what through me off was when I posted that model number in RepairClinic it pulled up Gas Coils first. LOL

But further down I do see the heating element.

Look here:

Speed Queen Dryer: Model ADE3LRGS171TW01 Parts & Repair Help | Repair Clinic

Find all the parts you need for your Speed Queen Dryer ADE3LRGS171TW01 at RepairClinic.com. We have manuals, guides and of course parts for common ADE3LRGS171TW01 problems.

www.anrdoezrs.net

Take the lower front access panel off and lay down on the floor and watch the heating element to see if it stays on for a long time with no clothes in it.

If not, then pull the dryer out from the wall, then remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer, then watch the element again and see if it stays on much longer and gets real hot air coming out the back of the dryer.

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Apologies in advance but I jumped the gun and disconnected the dryer’s vent and pulled the unit about 14” away from the wall. I removed the lower cover and watched the element right after I turned the dryer on (Permanent Press/Regular - Timed Dry. It heated for about 5 mins and went off. I could clearly see it was glowing red when on ... I continued to allow the dryer to run. Once the element was off I checked on it every 2-3 minutes. I never saw the element return back on. After nearly25 minutes of running I turned the dryer off...

I don’t think there’s any restriction in the vent. I checked previously and the air coming out is what I remember. This morning it was around freezing and there were plumes of ‘steam’ outside the kitchen window, like it normally does when the dryer runs.. so I just can’t image the dryer vent is clogged...

Any ideas?

 

[AppliDave]

Mayb I can voltage check out what’s going on... I’m certainly not an electrician, but it seems like power to drive the heating element comes into the green cycling thermostat located in the fan exhaust housing on a black wire. It (power) exits the green cycling thermostat on an orange wire and goes to the thermal fuse. Power exits the thermal fuse via a 2nd orange wire that attaches to the red limit thermostat. There are 2 wires exiting the red limit thermostat, a thin blue and thick black. The thick black goes to the lower terminal of the heating element. The think blue runs to the front of the drying ... I am not sure I can see where it terminates.

So I’m assuming I can check the voltage coming into the green cycling thermostat and existing the heating element (upper terminal, black). I’m guessing when heating it’s drawing 240v. So if the element stops heating when voltage is present, then I’d guess the heating element is bad. I guess...

Any other ideas?

 

[Jake]

I don't have the wiring diagram, but if the heating element is coming on when you first start the dryer then shuts off per the cycling thermostat and never comes back on, and the cycling thermostat is NOT CLOSED as the temperature drops below its temperature rating, then its a bad cycling thermostat.

You'd need a multimeter to ohm test the cycling thermostat, with power disconnected to the dryer, it should read 0-1 ohm, which means its CLOSED.

Watch this video to ohm test it:

Dryer Not Drying? Cycling Thermostat Testing, Troubleshooting | Repair Clinic

Dryer won’t heat, is too hot, won’t start/stop or not drying clothes? This video demonstrates how to test a cycling thermostat on an electric or gas dryer. Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.

www.anrdoezrs.net

The cycling thermostat is located on your blower wheel housing.

Here it is for your model:
D504515 Thermostat Grn


Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Please don’t take this the wrong way, but per my original post I initially replaced all 3 thermostats and the problem has persisted. I can test the brand new thermostat but I’d be shocked to fine the original went bad and then the replacement was also bad....

 

[AppliDave]

The old cycling thermostat reads 0 ohms. The new one installed, power cord unplugged, reads zero ohms. I’m taking the measurements at the outer edges of the thermostat across the large silver terminals (black wire, orange wire). There are 2 smaller brass terminals coming out of the thermostat, which I haven’t measured.

 

[Jake]

Ok, then its possibly the timer:

SpeedQueen D505797P Kit Timer & Harness (AP6284683) - AppliancePartsPros.com

KIT TIMER & HARNESS D505797P / AP6284683 made by SpeedQueen

click.linksynergy.com

But without the wiring diagram, I can't be sure.

So you may want to contact Speed Queen to send a tech. out to verify that first.

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

You may be correct on the timer... Here’s the most unusual things i witnessed and documented last night. My caveats are as follows:
1. My volt meter is a digital Radio Shack cheapie so it’s not a high end Fluke meter
2. Times are approximate in minutes. I didn’t stare at the meter constantly but would set my oven timer, go watch TV and return to the laundry room when the timer went off...

Timed dry
20mins - heater on for approx 10 mins at 240v, then down to 0.1V timer allowed to expire
immediate retest.
30mins - heater NOT on, test stopped by moving dial to last click of Cool Down
Immediate retest
40mins - heater on for about 8 mins at 240v, then 0.1v, then test stopped
Immediate retest
50mins - heater NOT on, at 0.1V, test stopped
60mins - heater NOT on, at 0.1v, test stopped

Allow 10 min rest ...

50mins - heater on for about 10mins, then 0.1v, test stopped

Allow 10 min rest ....

50mins - heater NOT on, o.1V, test stopped
MAX DRY, heater no but voltage at 287.2V**** for about 2 mins, then the meter freaked out, 246, 240, 15, 13, 25, 21, 33, 29, 14, 0F, 23, 10 then 0.1v. (Not when stopped the meter reads 0.0v)

10 minute rest
50min-heater NOT on, test stopped

Automatic Permanent Press - heater on 291v, 290v, 289v, turn to less dry 0.1v

HOW can I read 287Volts, 291VOLTS????? WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG?

 

[Jake]

That is very odd.

I don't know without being there with you myself.

Its best to have the Speed Queen tech. come out at this point.

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Thanks kindly. I’ll see if I can locate one close to me.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good.

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Still not working... Timer replaced, no change. Heating coil replaced, no change. All thermostats replaced no change. What’s left, except the fabric selector for No Heat, Delicate, and Permanent Press choices? Heats for about 10 mins very nicely, then heat cuts off, but dryer keeps running to completion. 2-4 month wait for a new Speed Queen here in MD

 

[Jake]

I don't know what's going on Dave, this is extremely rare to ever happen and especially on Speed Queen.

Get your tech. data sheet schematic out and trace the heat circuit through the motor heat switch and if its failing there, when the heat does NOT come back ON.

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Ummmm... it appears I’m an idiot. I did pull the dryer away from the wall some weeks ago and I even did tests with my volt meter, with the dryer away from the wall about a foot... Apparently it was not pulled away enough. Now I pulled it away 45 degrees where the outlet was pointed to the corner but I pulled it nearly 3 feet away. Ummmm it seems to be working....

I cannot explain the weird voltage readings. I cannot explain why air seemed to be coming out fine from the outside vent, but for one load just done, it was pulled nearly 3 ft away from the wall, it’s working .... So I dunno, 3 weeks without a dryer and $350 in parts and it appears it was in fact a partially blocked vent. So I have lots of new, unnecessary parts on the dryer. Now off to clean the vent. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised, it’s been awhile since I cleaned it and my vent is not optimal. It’s probably a 19-20 run.

 

[Jake]

Glad you were able to locate the issue.

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Ummm I spoke too soon. The dryer isn’t drying, same thing. Spins to completion, the clothes are damp. I completely disassembled the entire vent line. Completely, totally. I removed everything and cleaned everything. I didn’t just run a brush through the vent. I physically removed all vent material and cleaned it and re-installed it.

So pulling the drying sompletely away from the wall 2 1/2 feet allows the dryer to dry. Hooking it up stops the heating element but the dryer runs to completion. I’m at my wits end. All thermostats replaced, timer control replaced, heating coil replaced.

I just don’t get it.

 

[AppliDave]

The saga continues... My wife reports that she’s done 2 loads to DRY completion with the fabric selector set to Delicate. It’s the same clothes like towels and what not but just the selector not on Permanent Press.

 

[Jake]

Then it sounds like a problem in the fabric selector switch:

SpeedQueen D513505 Switch,fabric SELECTOR(3 Position) (AP6284700) - AppliancePartsPros.com

SWITCH,FABRIC SELECTOR(3 POSITION) D513505 / AP6284700 made by SpeedQueen

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[AppliDave]

Yep, I guess so. It’s the only (**&^% part that I havent’t replaced. At this point I think I’ve basically REBUILT the dryer! What an ordeal. Man do I feel stupid. I’ll order one up and give it a go. My wife has done 4 or 5 loads of laundry on Delicate with no issues... This last load is on Max Dry for longer time period but at Delicate and it seems to be working fine (not completed yet).