FIXED ADE3LRGS171TW01 Speed Queen Alliance Dryer will not heat

[Hoheit]

Model Number

ADE3LRGS171TW01

Brand

Speed Queen

Age

More than 10 years

Please bear with me as I am new to this stuff.
Speed Queen Dryer model ADE3LRGS171TW01
Will not heat. The dryer runs but only produces cold air. I pulled the heating element block, marked the wires so I can reassemble correctly and then unhooked the wires. The heating element 'pegs' my analog ohm meter. The sweep indicator goes completely to the other side when touching the terminals. I got the same result when doing that test to the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Dan O.]

A first step in a 'no heat' situation in an electric dryer is usually confirming the full 240 volts is getting to the dryer, both at the wall outlet and at the dryer's main terminal block.

Appliance411 FAQ: No Heat in an Electric Dryer

Can anybody tell me the most likely scenarios for lack of heat in an electric dryer? There are many things that can cause a no heat symptom in an electric dryer, here is a list in order of likelihood.

www.appliance411.com

Wall Outlet Wiring Example

Sears and Whirlpool Electric Dryer: Power Outlet | The Appliance Clinic

Main Terminal Block Failure Example

Electric Dryer Defective Main Terminal Block | The Appliance Clinic

Dan O.

 

[Hoheit]

Thank you Dan O for your response. I tested the breaker box and received 240 together and 120 separate so the two pole breaker is good. I also cleaned out the vent and all is good there. And retested the heating element and both thermal fuse and high limit thermostat. They are good. I am not sure how to test the wall socket. It is a four blade receptable.

 

[Dan O.]

I am not sure how to test the wall socket. It is a four blade receptable.

Did you look at the links i left?? Specifically the one titled "Wall Outlet Wiring Example" but all 3 of those links should be reviewed or at least looked at.


Dan O.

 

[Hoheit]

Roger that Dan O., I completely checked and verified the electrical wiring per the 'Wall Outlet Wiring Example' link which had very clear instructions. The circuit breakers, four terminal outlet and the Dryer Terminal block all check out good. The other link you provided shows a Timer Heater Contact, Thermal Cutoff and Operating Thermostat.

I assumed (bad to do) that the heating element block that I removed and tested had the High limit thermostat and thermal fuse mounted on it. So I am not sure which of those I actually tested were thermal cutoff or operating thermostat or high limit thermostat.

I also can't find any information the location of the ones I didn't test. The attached image is what I did test. Although the image shows one wire still connected, I actually had all wires disconnected for the testing.

 

[Dan O.]

The thermostats on the element are likely the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff/fuse. It really doesn't matter which is which if they have continuity although the red one is likely the high limit.

There looks to be a thermostat on the blower housing. That is likely the cycling thermostat. I don't know if there is another as well. Someone might have to check the unit's wiring diagram. I do not have access to that.

Blower Housing Thermostat

SpeedQueen D504515 Thermostat Grn (AP6285124) - AppliancePartsPros.com

THERMOSTAT GRN D504515 / AP6285124 made by SpeedQueen

click.linksynergy.com

The other possible culprits for a 'no heat' condition (besides the internal wiring) are:

Temperature Selector Switch
LINK > https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=F43FCUWlx9w&mid=13810&murl=https://www.appliancepartspros.com/speedqueen-switch-fabric-selector-d513505-ap6284700.html


ADE3LRGS171TW01 Timer
LINK > https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=F43FCUWlx9w&mid=13810&murl=https://www.appliancepartspros.com/speedqueen-kit-timer-harness-d505797p-ap6284683.html


Someone would need to look at the machine's wiring diagram to determine which of their terminals would need to be tested if everything else tests as good.

Dan O.

 

[Hoheit]

Okay, I found the Blower Housing Thermostat. The meter is set at Ohms it pegs the meter when the probes are touching the side (silver) contacts. But, the Ohm meter only goes about half way when the copper terminals are touched. So the copper terminals indicate that a complete circuit is present but not as strong as the silver terminals. Is that normal? I have attached two images.

 

[Dan O.]

Is that normal?

Yes. Defective would be infinite resistance ie. NO needle movement.


Dan O.

 

[Hoheit]

Okay, I found it. The Dryer Fabric Sector Switch. I am including an image of what I discovered.
Clearly, I need a new orange jumper wire. But, I'm not sure how to test the switch. A net search indicates the orange wire is 'Wire assembly' part 510540 and the 'Fabric Selector Switch is part 513505. I am not sure how reliable those part numbers are and if I need a new switch.

 

[Dan O.]

I'm not sure how to test the switch

It doesn't need to be tested. It is bad just by looking the color of its terminal. They're suppose to be silver or copper color, not charred. Either the switch overheated internally and caused the wire to burn off or the wire burning damaged the switch.

Both switch and wire terminal (or whole wire) needs to be replaced to correct the situation.

'Fabric Selector Switch is part 513505. I am not sure how reliable those part numbers are

I posted a link to the fabric selector switch for your dryer model previously and again below. It was originally # 513505 but is now prefixed by the letter "D", ie. D513505. The same for the wire now part # D510540.

Temperature Selector Switch D513505
LINK > https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=F43FCUWlx9w&mid=13810&murl=https://www.appliancepartspros.com/speedqueen-switch-fabric-selector-d513505-ap6284700.html

Normally a technician would cut back the wire to a good section and install a new terminal but if you don't have terminals or the proper tool to install them, replacing the wire is an option.

I didn't look up the wire but since you came up with the right number for the switch, I assume the number for the wire is correct too. The supplier I linked to with the selector switch also looks to have that wire in stock although there's no picture of that part.

Assy Wire-Org-Fab Selector D510540
LINK > https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=F43FCUWlx9w&mid=13810&murl=https://www.appliancepartspros.com/speedqueen-assy-wire-org-d510540-ap6329063.html


Dan O.

 

[Hoheit]

It was a process of elimination. I started down below and worked my way to the control panel. I decided to just replace both parts which are on order. I will let you know when I get them in and hooked up. It looks like prognosis for 'patient' is good. Thanks for your assistance!

 

[Hoheit]

Thought I would get back to you with the outcome. Problem solved. I replaced both the Fabric Selector Switch and the burned orange wire. The dryer works great. It was a painful process of elimination but for sure, I really learned something. I want to thank Dan O. for his patience and excellent guidance.

 

[RupertBlomburg]

Appliance411 FAQ: No Heat in an Electric Dryer

Can anybody tell me the most likely scenarios for lack of heat in an electric dryer? There are many things that can cause a no heat symptom in an electric dryer, here is a list in order of likelihood.

www.appliance411.com

Huge thanks Dan O.!! You saved me a few hundred dollars and a few extra days of waiting for the appliance tech to come back with the part once he identified the issue. I had a house-call scheduled for tomorrow and by having looked at the FAQ I fixed the issue myself. After reading it I was 99% sure that it was the thermal safety limiter on the heating/thermostat assembly unit for my dryer. I was able to order, pick up and install the unit within an hour and it only cost me $110 CDN. Big win for this happy camper, thanks!