FIXED Amana AFF2534FEW1 Defrost Cycle Not Working Properly

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BlaineBug

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Model Number
AFF2534FEW1
Brand
Amana
Age
6-10 years
Hello. First of all, the model number for my Amana refrigerator is AFF2534FEW1, as printed on the sticker on the inside of the refrigerator. Repair Clinic seems to think that I'm missing a 1, so it might be AFF2534FEW11 as well. Made by Maytag.

As of late, the coil defroster in the freezer has not been working properly. There is a large build up of ice on the back panel and inside of the vents, which sometimes gets bad enough so that the refrigerator reaches 60 degrees while the freezer remains at 0 or below.

The first time this happened, we used a hair dryer to defrost the coil without removing the back panel.

The second time it happened about a week later, I found out how to get in to diagnostics mode.

Test #1, Defrost Thermostat. Test showed "Shorted" which is good.

Test #2, Refrigerator Compressor & Condenser Fan. Works.

Test #3, Freezer Evaporator Fan. Works.

Test #4, Refrigerator Sensor. Showed "Pass" which is good.

Test #5, Freezer Sensor. Showed "Pass" which is good.

Test #6, Refrigerator Damper Door. Did not verify with my own eyes, but I can hear something moving. I'll assume that the damper isn't broken, and for sure the motor is actually working.

Test #7, Refrigerator Temperature Adjustment. Set to "5" which is the default setting.

Test #8, Freezer Temperature Adjustment. Set to "5" which is the default setting.

Test #9, UNKNOWN TEST. This was not in the instructions. I'm not sure what it is. It was set to "A" but another choice is "F". I'm not sure what this means, so I did not change it.

I do believe that the defrost heater is working. When it is switched on in Test #1, I did see water dripping down the drain tube, through the vent holes on the back wall of the freezer.

I also tried running LONG and SHORT cycles of the Force Defrost cycle. Neither seemed to turn on the defrost heater, though, and the ice remains.

Somehow, my refrigerator is holding at 38 degrees. There is still a considerable amount of ice on the coils in the freezer, but it must not yet be bad enough to cause the refrigerator to stop cooling.

What is my culprit here? Is it the control board? In the other threads, it seems common practice to just go ahead and replace the control board and the thermostat together as they are both prone for intermittent failure. And like I said I am pretty sure the defrost heater is actually working, as visually verified with melting water in Test #1.

Thanks!
 
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jeff1

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BlaineBug

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I believe the heater works, as it started dripping water in Test #1. I have not tested it with a meter yet, however, as this would require disassembly of a rather full upper and lower freezer deck. However it does not seem to engage when forcing the defrost mode outside of the diagnostics.

Also, do you have any idea what diagnostics test #9 is? Test 9 is not listed anywhere. Everything I read lists 6 tests with #7 and #8 being the adjustments for freezer and refrigerator temperature.
 

BlaineBug

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I also note that the compressor fan does not seem to be turning off.

It seems as if my compressor is running almost constantly. About a half hour ago, I switched my refrigerator to OFF so that "-" is displayed for both the refrigerator and freezer temperatures.

However, the fan still keeps running!

PS, I am re-running diagnostic test #1, and I do know for a fact that the defrost heater is working as I hear "hissing" and of course, the water melting off of the coil in the freezer. So, at the very least, the thermostat is allowing electricity to flow to the heating element, and the element is working itself.

I do have to keep one of the french doors partially opened, though, as if the door sensors sense that all of the doors are closed, the diagnostics will be shut down.
 
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jeff1

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o you have any idea what diagnostics test #9 is?
None.

I also note that the compressor fan does not seem to be turning off.
Ever?

Sounds like something on that control board may be welded closed.

jeff.
 

BlaineBug

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It's hard to say but it seems to be running non stop, as in, it's always running when I happen to be paying attention and in the room.

I also read up elsewhere that the fan running non stop may be a by-product of the coil being frosted over and not allowing sufficient airflow in to the refrigerator. The fan is trying but failing to keep the air flowing, perhaps. Probably because the temperature sensor in the refrigerator knows that it is not reaching the set temp.

Either way, something is not cycling the defrost cycle as it should, even though the defrost heater is functional as tested in the diagnostic sequence.

Nonetheless, I have ordered a replacement board. Replacement will be a sinch from the looks of it. I just hope this is the cause! I'd rather, than having to tear in to the freezer compartment. I'm capable but still prefer the path of least resistance. Especially with P.I.T.A. bottom freezer compartments.
 

BlaineBug

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I have the new board in and programmed.

To start things off, I put the refrigerator in forced "short" defrost mode.

I am seeing water drip down through the drain and hear the sizzle of melting ice!

Forcing a defrost mode with the "old" board never did this. Although you could force the defrost heater to turn on through diagnostics.

I'm not sure how you could force it on through the diagnostics mode but not through forced defrost mode. It must use a different circuit path, I suppose.

All in all, it SEEMS as if we're going to be good to go. I'll keep you updated. It will probably take quite a long time to melt all of this ice. Hopefully within a few days.

Thanks for the help!
 

jeff1

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It will probably take quite a long time to melt all of this ice. Hopefully within a few days.
Hair dryer.

Thankx for the update.

jeff.
 

BlaineBug

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Yes, we will probably want to do it. Forced defrost, even in "long" mode, only works for so long. There is still a considerable amount of ice on the back panel of the freezer. We will probably have to defrost it manually by hand one more time.

Although the freezer and refrigerator are maintaining normal safe temperatures now, and at times, my kitchen is entirely silent......as in, the fan isn't running constantly as it was with the old board. I think we have a winner with this replacement panel. Very disappointing considering this Amana refrigerator is less than 8 years old.

Although I can remember, my Father had an old Maytag side-by-side from 1999. I think he had a circuit board inside replaced at least 3 times before he got rid of it around 2014. It was still working then, too. Although I recall, when that circuit board went bad, he didn't have any cooling in the freezer, either. He lost much food in that Maytag throughout its multiple failures.
 

jeff1

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e lost much food in that Maytag throughout its multiple failures.
Hope that doesn't happen to yours!

We will probably have to defrost it manually by hand one more time.
A fresh start is best.

jeff.
 

BlaineBug

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I do believe everything is good. I defrosted it manually and then forced another defrost. Coils look so much better, but I believe they were so wet after the forced defrost cycle that the water froze up. It will probably take a couple more automatic defrost cycles to get everything back to normal. There was obviously a whole lot of ice behind the rear panel of the freezer. Once again all temperatures are good and everything seems to be functioning just as it did when everything was new, luckily.
 
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