Amana ARG7600 oven doesn't light

maxblack

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Wisconsin
Model Number
ARG7600
Brand
Amana
Age
More than 10 years
Merry Christmas Jeff and Jake!

We bought a summer home Up North (1,400 miles from our southern main home) that has this range/oven that's been converted to LP gas, and when up there recently I found that while the top burners light just fine (tick-tick-tick flames!) when I set the Oven to Bake or Broil and wait for a minute or two, nothing at all happens that I can tell--no noises like the ticking of an ignitor, no smell indicating gas flow, nothing.

The Owner's Manual is no help and says nothing at all about "how to light the oven" so... Am I correct in assuming that if the range top lights, that the oven should light as well i.e. that there is no separate gas valve, or burning pilot, that might be the easy reason the oven doesn't light? That yes, setting the electronic controls to Broil or Bake should have inspired the oven to light?

The original homeowners had made some comment to me about "have this local plumbing company light the oven" and I wonder if that was their code for "the thing's broke and you need to get a repairman out".

Of course, if there's an obvious fix then I'm going to be inclined to attempt it myself the next time I am up there, but for now I would just like for someone smarter than I am to confirm that there was nothing obvious about this thing that I missed! Thanks and Happy New Year to all y'all.


:very_drunk:
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Max!

Am I correct in assuming that if the range top lights, that the oven should light as well i.e. that there is no separate gas valve, or burning pilot, that might be the easy reason the oven doesn't light?
No, the top is controled by the spark module, the oven bake and broil is controlled by the oven control board that sends 120 volts to the ignitors that glow orange then ignite the gas.

So when you turn the oven on bake and open the door do you see an orange glow from the bottom of the oven? If not that could be either the oven glow bar igniter is bad or the control board is bad.

To determine which you'd need a multimeter set on AC volts and put the meter probes in the electrical connector that goes to the oven glow bar igniter then turn the oven on bake and see if you get 120 volts.

Your missing some digits after the 7600 in your model number, we would need those last digits.

Here's the results I get:

ARG7600CC
ARG7600CC-P1143387NCC
ARG7600L
ARG7600L-P1141298NL
ARG7600L/P1143321NL
ARG7600L/P1143332NL
ARG7600LL
ARG7600LL-P1141298NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143332NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143339NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143345NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143354NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143364NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143384NLL
ARG7600LL-P1143387NLL
ARG7600W
ARG7600W-P1141298NW
ARG7600W-P1143332NW
ARG7600W/P1143321NW
ARG7600WW
ARG7600WW-P1141298NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143332NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143339NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143345NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143354NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143364NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143384NWW
ARG7600WW-P1143387NWW

Jake
 

maxblack

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Wisconsin
Thanks Jake for telling how the gas is ignited. It was daylight when I attempted this and didn't know to look for "an orange glow" so am not sure if I got that or not. But then--I should have smelled gas? I did leave it on Bake (or Broil) for long enough to smell gas, but I did not smell anything, nor did I hear any hissing indicating flow. Do you think it is possible that the range burners and oven gas lines might be separately valved? Or maybe it's as simple as the control board doesn't even release any gas unless the igniter is ON?

I wonder now if the previous owner's comment about "lighting the oven" meant that in the absence of a working control board or glow bar that the oven could be lighted manually? What do you think?

I'll not be back there for some time to look for the exact model number or order parts... at this point I just want to understand all the possibilities, thanks for your insight.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Do you think it is possible that the range burners and oven gas lines might be separately valved?
They are separated, as the oven gas safety valve is just for the oven bake and broil flames.

On ranges with oven glow bar igniters, its impossible to light those manually.

But like I said above you will need a multimeter to check for 120 volts to the glow bar igniters.

Jake
 

maxblack

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Wisconsin
Sorry Jake, I am not being clear about my valve question: can you confirm that there is only one MANUAL valve on this oven?

If there is a second (manually activated) lever-type valve for the oven alone then it is possible that is still off and therefore the simplest of fixes.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You have a pressure regulator and the oven safety valve.

Until I can get your exact model number then I can only go by this list: ARG7600 Gas Burner & Control Valve Parts from RepairClinic.com

You can see in that general parts list for those 28 models it shows both, but neither have any shut-off lever that I can see.

Jake
 

maxblack

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Wisconsin
Thanks Jake I really appreciate your patience with me. I did some more surfing and found an Amana service manual here which is clearly a generic manual but appears relevant to my oven. In any case it seems a couple things are true:

1. I was asking about the possibility of multiple manual valves from Amana, and clearly there are no manual valves at all provided with the unit, only a single manual valve that the installer would have provided and connected at the regulator.

2. This excerpt from the manual answers my other questions:

Bake and broil ignitors are mounted to the bake and
broil burners. They ignite the gas flowing into the burner.
During bake and broil operations, current flows through
the ignitor, gas valve and thermostat to neutral. As the
ignitor heats up and starts glowing, its internal
resistance decreases. This allows more current to flow
through the bake or broil circuit.
When circuit current reaches approximately 3.3 - 3.6
amps, bimetal arm in the gas valve flexes, opening the
valve and allowing gas to flow to the burner
where it is
ignited by the glowing ignitor. Ignitors glow anytime bake
or broil burners are operating and cycle on and off with
the thermostat cycling contacts.
Since I never smelled any gas, nor did I notice any glow from inside the oven, it seems clear as you said up-front that either the Control Board or the Ignitors are faulty, but both ignitors would have to be bad so I'll try a Control Board first.

Thanks again for helping me!
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You may be better off retiring that range, since its already over 10 years old, and go range shopping.

The average life of Ranges now is only 8-12 years. I'd hate to see you having to go pull that part and sending it in then go back to re-install it and hope it fixes it, you see what I mean?

Without using a multimeter to test for 120 volts first to the glow bar igniters you won't know for sure that will fix it, I have seen both glow bar igniters go bad at the same time, its rare but does happen.

Jake
 

maxblack

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
22
Location
Wisconsin
I know how to use a VOM so will check it out on my next trip up there. Thanks for all your insight.

Funny just this a.m. I found a thread online talking about how modern gas ranges' stove tops can be lit with a match, but if you have a power failure you are SOL regarding the oven owing to the electric ignitors (and apparently some can be bought with battery-operated oven ignitors).

I do still wonder why the homeowner said "Call our local plumbing/heating contractor to light the oven" as if there was some work-around magic they employed. Maybe I will call them to see if they recall working on this oven before.

We are tempted to replace all the appliances in this house we bought, but all the others (microwave, DW, refrig) work just fine so are disinclined to spend. But one more question Jake that you will surely know: what happens with old appliances these days i.e. if we have Sears or Home Depot or (whoever) install all new, and haul-away the old. Do the old get "refurbished where they can be, and recycled where they can't"???
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, Usually Sears or Home Depot has some company take them and repair them if its cost feasible.

Jake
 
Top