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Amana Refrigerator ARS9169AS not cooling

ntdk1212

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2021
Messages
4
Location
el paso
Model Number
ARS9169AS
Brand
Amana
Age
More than 10 years
hey yall. i have a amana ARS9169AS and its not cooling. its started out as just the freezer and then as we were about to start working on it we realized the refrigerator isn't working either. So I cleaned the condenser coils underneath, or what I think is the condenser coils cause the were filthy from dog hair. one part of the bottom sucks air in while the other side pushes air out.

Anyways I have taken out the evaporator fan and ohm checked it and am only getting about 50 ohm, which is less than what I've read it should be but it doesn't seem completely broke. i AC volt tested the connections and only got 10-12 volts. I checked the fan while its connected and fridge is turned on and nothing. I do hear something run in the back bottom like condenser fan or compressor, I'm not sure. what should i check next? any help would be appreciated.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Its your defrost thermostat that's possibly bad, that is in series with the evaporator fan motor.

It clips on the top of your evaporator coil inside your freezer, unplug your refrigerator first, then take the shelves out of the freezer then take the lower back panel off from inside your freezer.

The way you test it is, use your ohm meter to ohm it for continuity(while its frosty) It should read 0-1 ohm. There is also a video I will post below to show you how to test it in a glass of ice water, so even if its not frosty you can still test it.

Make sure the defrost thermostat stays in the glass of ice water for at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it.

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model you can order:
Defrost Thermostat R0161088


If you have a bulge on the top of your defrost thermostat, then it's definitely bad.


Jake
 

ntdk1212

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2021
Messages
4
Location
el paso
thank you very much. i have attached a picture of it. i have one plug I cant get to that goes thru the back wall. This fridge is in an RV and framed in. Is it possible and/or safe to cut the wires and splice in the new one if it is bad and then solder and heat shrink? thank you
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Is it possible and/or safe to cut the wires and splice in the new one if it is bad and then solder and heat shrink?
You bet you can.:)

Jake
 

ntdk1212

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2021
Messages
4
Location
el paso
thanks. i got it cut out and did the ice water test. I didn't get any reading on it so I'm guessing that's the issue. I tested the water temperature, and could only get it down to 22 degrees F. I read some where that it needs to be 15 or below, so does that make my glass water test unusable?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
No, the temperature rated on the defrost thermostat when it should close is 33 degrees, so if it didn't close at 22 degrees, then its bad. So the defrost thermostat is bad.

Order the new defrost thermostat from my link to it above and you should be back in business.

Jake
 

ntdk1212

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2021
Messages
4
Location
el paso
should the evap fan turn on immediately when i turn the fridge on? because I order both a new thermostat and a new evaporator fan and it is not turning on. I did a ohms test on the new fan and was getting 153 compared to the old fan with 51 so that's good news. what else should i try?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
should the evap fan turn on immediately when i turn the fridge on?
No, the defrost thermostat has to close first, which means the temperature of the defrost thermostat needs to be 33 degrees for that evaporator fan motor to power on.

Jake
 

DanielG

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Lancaster, Ohio
No, the defrost thermostat has to close first, which means the temperature of the defrost thermostat needs to be 33 degrees for that evaporator fan motor to power on.

Jake
Hi Everyone, I’ve been following this thread with the same issues. I have an (MFG. 2010) Amana AFD2535FES5 Fidg/Frzr that got warmer over 4-5 days and has stopped cooling. The coils have been cleaned since which were not terribly dirty. I examined/tested/replaced the defrost thermostat that was faulty. Before replacing the thermostat, the evaporator fan motor, the compressor and condenser fan would start up immediately upon plugging it back in.
Since replacing the thermostat, the evaporator fan comes on immediately and the compressor and condenser fan takes 2-3 minutes to start.
I’m not getting cold still. The only part of the Evaporator coil that is getting cold is the super small line that feeds the evaporator coil (pic attached).
Any help would be appreciated!! Thank you.
 

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DanielG

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Lancaster, Ohio
I failed to mention the following... When I originally removed the cover of the Evaporator coil cover, there was a huge ball of ice where the defrost thermostat is located. It is took awhile to defrost given the side of it, hope this helps.
Thank you!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Daniel,

You have a sealed system problem.

The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, heat exchanger, filter/drier and refrigerant. Common problems with a sealed system are bad compressors, refrigerant leaks, and system restrictions. Sealed system repair costs will often exceed the machines value.

You may want to go refrigerator shopping this weekend, you should get a good deal due to the Presidents Day Sale going on this weekend at Lowe's, Home Depot, or any appliance store in your area.

Jake
 

DanielG

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Lancaster, Ohio
Good morning Jake,
I appreciate the information you provided. Sadly I felt this may be the case, based upon my research. I’ve obtained the necessary tools to pierce the system and add R134a. I’m familiar with the whole pressure / temperature systems. I do not give up easily and it’s only my time and a few dollars that will suffer.
I my efforts succeed in any way, I will let the forum know... crossing my fingers!
 

Macs7777

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Kim City, MO
Hi Daniel,

You have a sealed system problem.

The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, heat exchanger, filter/drier and refrigerant. Common problems with a sealed system are bad compressors, refrigerant leaks, and system restrictions. Sealed system repair costs will often exceed the machines value.

You may want to go refrigerator shopping this weekend, you should get a good deal due to the Presidents Day Sale going on this weekend at Lowe's, Home Depot, or any appliance store in your area.

Jake
What brand frig freezer doing you recommend. ?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
We recommend Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid and Amana.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,949
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Anytime!

Jake
 
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