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Amana Washer NTW4650YQ0 not advancing after wash

renatofernandez

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
Model Number
NTW4650YQ0
Brand
Amana
Age
6-10 years
Hi Guys!!

Total newbie here. I'm trying to repair my Mom's Amana NTW4650YQ0 top load washer. She brought in a technician previously who removed the control board and to date he has not contacted her and does not answer our calls. Sooooo.........I took it upon myself to try to repair the unit myself. I ordered a used control board from eBay and, while waiting for it to arrive, did a little refurbishing to the machine (scrapped out completely, treated with rust remover and repainted). All that went well and I got the part and replaced it last night.

I reconnected the machine and tried to run a small load of clothes and VIOLA!! The machine started up fine! The lid locked, washer filled and started to agitate and then...........nothing. The machine refused to advance to rinse mode and the only way I got it to restart to wash mode was to empty the drum via the drain hose. So I tried YouTube looking for a solution and I noted that a lot of these issues in different models are caused by the shift actuator. I then tried to enter diagnostics mode and finally got through and ran a diagnostics test and it seems that there are two error codes, F2E1, which seems to be "stuck control key".

Here's my question (besides any advice that you guys can offer otherwise), I know the board was a used one so the "stuck control key" error code may be relevant but is there a way that I can physically test the actuator to see if it's functioning properly besides the self diagnostics test? If it's a simple 120 VAC stepper motor can I apply voltage to the correct leads to see if it functions properly? Or should I focus on checking the control board? Maybe it's a simple problem that I can repair like a faulty touch switch on the control board? My field of expertise is in the area of repairing club lighting (LED's, stage lighting, moving heads) so I sort of know my way around a circuit board.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
122,790
Location
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I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, On page 3 CLEAR THE ERROR CODE--->Look where it says--->2. To clear fault codes:

Then Do AUTOMATIC TEST MODE Page 4 and Page 8. It will test the shift actuator for you.:)

Jake
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - W10468340 - Rev C.pdf
    3.7 MB · Views: 68

renatofernandez

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
Great!! I ran the automatic test and the washer filled, agitated and spun but no water was pumped out during the testing. I also ran a manual test based on the tech sheet and I got nothing from the pump. So based on this, I'm assuming that the shift actuator is working fine as the machine both agitates and spins and the problem is the pump or maybe the control board. Or could the problem be caused by something else? Do I remove the pump? Obviously, if the pump is clogged, there will be no water but I should hear some motor noise or movement. What's the next step?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
122,790
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, you will need a multimeter to take a volt test at the 2 drain pump wires. Just unsnap the electrical connector to the drain pump and put your meter probes in each wire and in MANUAL TEST put it on drain and see if your meter reads 120 volts.

If you have 120 volts and its not running, then the drain pump is bad. If your not getting the full 120 volts at the drain pump then the control board is bad.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
WPW10276397 Pump-Water


Jake
 

renatofernandez

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
Thanks Jake!

By the way, do you think my assumptions about the shift actuator being totally functional are correct? Another question....I have the back of the washer open and the pump is visible but I have the washer on a wheeled pallet for mobility so I can't tilt it forward to access the pump. I took a picture of the pump and I'm guessing that the blue/brown wires are the 120VAC input to the pump. There's a plastic shroud on the bottom of the pump and these wires feed the pump through this shroud. Do I snap off this shroud to access the input terminal? Or is there an easier way I can access the voltage going to the pump? Can I source the voltage output to the pump from the back of the control board or does the pump receive a voltage feed from the main motor?
 

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  • Water Pump 4A.JPG
    Water Pump 4A.JPG
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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It unsnaps so that you can remove the electrical connector from the drain pump, then put your meter leads in each wire connector and check for 120 volts when the drain pump should be running in MANUAL TEST MODE.

Watch this video and you will see how it unsnaps:


Jake
 

renatofernandez

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
Got it!! Getting the shroud off was a little difficult because the washer is on a rolling dolly so I can't tilt it but I got it off and got the electrical connector came out easily enough. I put the probes in and plugged in and what I found strange was that I got a 110VAC reading after 30 seconds once the washer entered READY mode. Now, I figure the 110VAC reading is constant and the pump is triggered by a relay when it's time to spin out but I could be wrong. Anyway, the reading IS a constant 110VAC at the connector. Just to be sure, should I reconnect the pump, cut the wires and run a direct 110VAC supply to it just to be sure? The wires would be simple enough to rejoin safely and at least I'll be sure that it's a faulty pump for sure.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
122,790
Location
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If you got 110 Volts AC constant at the drain pump electrical connector and the drain pump is not running, then the drain pump is the bad part.

Jake
 

renatofernandez

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Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
Hi again. I sourced a new pump on eBay but I decided to test the old pump before I ordered the new one so I pulled it out of the washer (easy enough, 3 screws), connected it to a 120VAC supply and VIOLA!! The pump spun freely and it seems to be fully functional and it was free of debris as there was nothing clogging it. Could this mean a faulty control board? Maybe a faulty relay that triggers the pump?
 

Jake

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Messages
122,790
Location
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Then that means the control board is bad, contact the place you got it from and get a refund on it, then buy a NEW control board from my link to it below. ebay is not the place you buy parts, there is no oversite there and too many scammers try to rip you off.

whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10484678-ap5645166_01_l.jpg



Jake
 

renatofernandez

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Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
I bought that control a while back in September but only got around to working on this washer because I moved my Mom in with me permanently due to the pandemic. At $366.00 I don't think it's worth it and if I abandon ship on this project, I'll only be out a few hours of my time, one door lock switch and a few cans of spray paint. My own Whirlpool washer also has an issue but I believe it'll be an easier and cheaper fix rather than forking out $366.00 plus shipping to repair the Amana. I'm thinking I'll add a new post on my Whirlpool to the forum and see if I can get mine up and running properly as the only issue it has is it's not spinning out properly and the clothes remain soaking wet after the cycle is finished.
 

Jake

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Messages
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Yes, I agree $366 is quite high.

You can buy a brand new BOTTOM OF THE LINE washer for $500

Jake
 

renatofernandez

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Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Trinidad And Tobago
Yup. That's the economics behind it literally. I'll start a new forum post to see if I can get help with my Whirlpool. It's an older rotary mechanical type so I'm thinking it'll be less costly to fix. Based on my YouTube video synopsis, I'm leaning towards the actuator or the coupling as being the faulty part.
 
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