Another GE Fridge won't cool post.... GE Profile PFE29PSDASS

[AZBrownie]

Model Number

PFE29PSDASS

Brand

GE

Age

6-10 years

Previously posted elsewhere, but thought it may be best to create a new thread (previous thread here: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...rigerator-freezer-not-working-properly.43916/)

I have a GE PFE29PSDASS which seems very similar to what is being discussed here. Compressor will not kick on and there is no cooling, Coil fan is working. Freezer fan is working. Green light on the board is flashing (if that means anything).

The J15 connection being referred to appears to be J9 on my board and in testing pins 7 and 8 (picture below) I am getting 2.6 volts to the inverter. (this was also tested at the inverter) Is this a main board issue (as in I need a new main board)? Are there any components on the board I can replace to fix this?

I have also found:
FF Fan was not working, reading 0 rpm in diagnostic mode (I was able to blast the fan with WD40 and it spins now, will replace if I can get the bigger issue fixed)
FF2 thermistor is reading -- -- ,does this mean I don't have one?, FF1 and FZ1 thermistor are reading accurately
Would a thermistor not reading cause the issue of no cooling and compressor not working?

I believe I have checked, googled, and tested everything I have found and just need a little guidance before a big $$$$ (to me) purchase.
Thank you for any assistance

 

[rickgburton]

You have 2.6 VDC across the red wire and white wire and 120 VAC across the orange wire and black wire on the inverter, correct? You have a FF thermistor and a FF Evap thermistor I don't what order they test them in diagnostics. It should tell you on the tech sheet. The flashing green LED means the DC power supply is working.

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[AZBrownie]

J9 pin 7 and 8 on the board translate to the red and white on the inverter and it is 2.6 v.
and 120 on orange and black at the inverter. We took it apart and tested with all wires connected.

 

[rickgburton]

Replace the board. 2.6 VDC is not enough voltage.

 

[AsBuckeye]

Great! Will order the board and let you know the outcome. Thank you for your QUICK reply.

 

[rickgburton]

Will you measure the voltage across 7 & 8 with the connector disconnected and tell me what you get? I'm curious if you get 4-6 VDC

 

[AZBrownie]

Just measured across pins 7 and 8. The reading was slightly higher at 2.88, rather than the 2.6 measured at the inverter.
Should the vdc always be in the 4-6 range you referenced? The page below from the Tech Service Guide has me at a loss. it reference both ranges (2-3 and 4-6).
I held off on ordering the board. Could it be possible to replace the relay and not the whole board?
Appreciate your input on this one!

 

[rickgburton]

I doubt it's just a relay but I couldn't tell you when it comes to board components. When there's a problem with the board we just replace the board. For service techs it wouldn't be cost effective to try and fix it. There are no board schematics or parts for the board available from the manufacturer. The machine uses pulse width modulation. By changing the frequency of the pulse width you change the voltage. The board is the problem. If you want to try changing board components good luck.

 

[AsBuckeye]

The board it is! Appreciate your help. Just trying to save what I can, if possible. Will let you know the outcome!

 

[rickgburton]

OK, sounds good. Keep us posted

 

[AZBrownie]

New board installed and no luck. The reading from the 7 and 8 still at roughly 2.5 dvc.
Thoughts? does this point to the invertor or a thermistor issue? Other thoughts?

 

[rickgburton]

What do you get with the connector disconnected? Did you get the board from the link?

 

[BrysonH]

New board installed and no luck. The reading from the 7 and 8 still at roughly 2.5 dvc.
Thoughts? does this point to the invertor or a thermistor issue? Other thoughts?

Did you ever figure out this issue? I seem to be having the same problem and I’m currently on my 2nd motherboard.