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FIXED ARB2257CSR Refrigerator making clicking sound, refrigerator is still cooling

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
Model Number
ARB2257CSR
Brand
Amana
Age
More than 10 years
Hi Jeff or whoever is reading this on your behalf,

My Amana refrigerator (>10 years old, Canadian model ARB2257CSR) has been making clicking sounds lately only during the evening. I don't think it has been happening every night so far. The refrigerator is still cooling the refrigerator compartment and the freezer is still working. From what I have read is that the compressor is overheating and it could be the cooling fan, relay, or the condenser.

I check this evening for dust on the coils and sure enough, the coils were all covered in it. I cleaned up the coils, but it is still making the clicking sound based on a half hour after cleaning the dust.

So my next question is; will the clicking sound disappear right away if the dust on the coils were the culprit? Or will it take a few hours for the compressor to cool, if in fact it was due to the dust on the coil?

If not, what components usually go first on this model refrigerator, anything I should look at first?
I assume that if it is indeed the compressor, the cost may maybe close to half the purchase price of a new refrigerator.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Regards and thanks,
Gus
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,663
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The clicking noise is coming from the overload on the compressor opening and closing. The overload will open if it gets too hot or if the compressor draws too many amps. If the coils were packed with dust and dirt it blocks the airflow across the condensor and the compressed refrigerant can't condense back to a liquid. This will cause the compressor to run hot and cause it to draw a lot of amps. When the compressor cools down to normal operating temperature it should stop clicking. However, it all depends on how long it's been running hot. The overload could be worn out from the constant opening and closing or the compressor windings can be worn from constantly running hot. Then there's the refrigerant. Unlike the old R12 refrigerant, R134a refrigerant can't take take the heat. Too hot for too long will cause the refrigerant to break down to its chemical components and create sludge. The sludge can get caught in the cap tube or filter and cause a partial restriction.

Normal compressor operating temperature is warm to very warm. Use this diagram to check the compressor windings. If the overload continues to open and close when the compressor is running normal and the windings are within specs, replace the overload and relay.
R -Compressor Windings Test.jpg
Use this one to check the relay/overload/start device.
R -Relay Overload Start Device.jpg

Start Device WP12555902
Start-Device-WP12555902-00764293.jpg
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
Rick,

Thanks for the troubleshooting aids and reference info.
Question; looking at the overload/start device, do the two part come apart?
Looking at the troubleshooting diagram, I get the impression that you have to separate the part into two components and test per the diagram.

Regards and thanks,
Gus
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,663
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The solid state overload/relay is two pieces and the start device is one piece. The start device is actually two pieces in a plastic shell that does not come apart. Testing is the same for both. The only difference is on the two pieces you test the overload for continuity front to back or from the terminal on front to the hole that goes over the compressor common pin. You test the relay by measuring the resistance between the two terminals on front or the two holes in back. On a start device you check the overload the same way from the hole on the back that goes the common pin to one of the wire terminals on the front. Since you can't see the wire terminals on front of the relay on a start device you can only check it by measuring between the two holes in the back. Most relays have two terminals on front, one over the start pin and one over the run pin. However some relays that come in a kit may have three or four terminals on front. Don't let that throw you. The terminals on the right side are connected together and the terminals on the left side are connected together. The extra terminals are for a start or run capacitor. On the start device the capacitor plugs into the front of the start device but like I mentioned earlier a run capacitor is not necessary.
R-OL-SD.jpg
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
Rick,

Initial checkout of the compressor is that it is definitely really hot to the touch and not warm. The lower half of the compressor,it almost scalding hot. The fan is definitely running.

C to R measures 3.7 ohms and C to S measures 5.7 ohms, so it seems the windings are still good.
And the overload/relay/starter combo is all broken inside. When I shake it, there are a whole bunch of broken pieces inside.

At this point, before I go any further, it is safe to say that the overload/relay/starter switch need to be replaced. But is the compressor a throw away at this point? Or is it getting hot due to the broken overload/relay/starter switch and the compressor can be saved? My guess is that if there was sludge in the compressor, then both the freezer and the refrigerator would have been warm.

By the way, the picture of the new overload/relay/starter shows two separate power pins. The wiring harness going to the switch on my compressor has the two wires in one plug. Please refer to the attached picture.
Does the new switch come with a wire harness adapter kit?

Regards,IMG_1789.jpg
Gus
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,663
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
It's the same start device. Disconnect the connector on the old one and plug it into the new one. Leave the machine unplugged until you get the replacement start device.
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
Rick,

Sorry I am not following you. My concern is the the new part has a different connector interface than from what I have now. The image shown on the left is from the link you provided for the replacement part showing a completely different connector interface than from what I have now. My current connector interface is shown in the image on the right and I have circled it in red. This is taken from same image you provided to me in one of your earlier post.

So this is why, I am not sure when you replied with " .. . It's the same start device. Disconnect the connector on the old one and plug it into the new one." ?
The dual wire single connector that I have will not fit into the new part. The new part uses two individual connectors.



00766127.jpguold connector.png
 

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dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
Rick,

I will leave the refrigerator unplugged for about 4 hours. Don't want to worry about food going bad.
And hopefully the compressor will resume normal (warm) operation. I will have to keep an eye on it.

Thank you very much for your help. Much appreciated.

Regards,
Gus
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,663
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
You better have some dry ice handy. I don't believe the compressor will start with the defective start device. The pieces rattling around inside it are the contact points.
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
The refrigerator still works with the defective device. After diagnosing it last night, I plugged the refrigerator back in with the defective device and the refrigerator started up just fine. The freezer and refrigerator compartments are still fine and working as of now.
When it comes time to replace the part, I will unplug the refrigerator, replace with the new part, wait 4 hours, and then plug the refrigerator back in.

Please let me know if there something I am doing out of sequence. I don't think I am.
 

dieselgg

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
174
Location
Canada
Rick,

One week after replacing the overload/starter switch, my refrigerator is running great and of course no issues to report.

Thank you for your assistance and providing me with the correct part number.

Regards,
Gus
 

gdyeags

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
1
Location
US
I have the same exact problem with my Kenmore Elite. It doesn't have a start relay though. There's a 3-prong connector connecting the compressor winding terminals on the compressor to an inverter board. I'm guessing the start relay functionality is in that inverter board?
 
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