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Basic Hotpoint dryer won't start?

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Model Number
NVLR333EV0WW
Brand
Hotpoint
Age
More than 10 years
I have a 12+ old Hotpoint electric dryer which has always ran great with no issues. I noticed it was slow to start (would have to hold the switch until it got going) and after a few months of this it quit running. I had ran a load then put a new load in and nothing, no noise, humming or anything....just would not start. It sat for a couple days (unplugged) and I tried to start it, well it started up then quit after a few seconds of running. After this could not get it to start again.

I have checked all switches for continuity and all checked out good, the drum spins (by hand) fine as it should. I ended up replacing the motor with a new one. Got everything put back together and nothing!! Will not start. So I let it sit for a couple days and tried starting it and again it started and ran for about 5 seconds then stopped. Would not start after that and there was a hot burning type smell.

Sorry for the long post but I'm at a total loss and hoping someone will have some ideas? This model has the belt safety switch which has continuity so checks out good.

Thank you!
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,835
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

Burnt power wire.
Burnt power cord/outlet.
Loose power wire.
Door switch.
Broken belt switch.
Loose wire ( maybe at the motor )
Thermal fuse.
Bad new motor.
Timer.

jeff.
 

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Hi Jeff,
Thank you for the quick response. I have checked the power cord/outlet and they are good. I have power to the dryer block in back and all wires in the dryer and at the motor look good.

As for the door switch, belt switch and thermal fuse, I have tested all for continuity and they test good. I guess my question on that is could one still not be working correctly yet show continuity?

I hate to think its a bad new motor as the dryer did the same thing with the old motor as well.

The timer switch is the only thing I have not been able to test (not sure how) so that maybe the problem however you can hear it running on the timed setting so appears to be working.
 
F

fairbank56

Guest
Unplug dryer, open control panel, disconnect wire from timer terminal C that goes to the timer motor. Disconnect wire from Terminal B and connect it to terminal C where you disconnected the timer motor wire. Plug dryer back in, leave timer in off position and try starting. If motor still does not start, problem is not the timer.

Eric
 
Last edited:

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,835
Location
Ontario, Canada
I have power to the dryer block in back

What was the readings? Tested static and working?

I hate to think its a bad new motor as the dryer did the same thing with the old motor as well.

More often we get a "new" issue when we have a bad part.....but stranger things have happened ;)

The timer switch is the only thing I have not been able to test (not sure how)

EG only! ge-newelec-diagram.JPG B to C is motor, B to A is heat.

Timer-WE4X872--00861776.jpg Timer assembly Manufacturer Number WE4X872

jeff.
 
F

fairbank56

Guest
Here is the correct tech sheet.
 

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Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Eric, my timer has a plastic female terminal plug that holds the three wires (yellow, red and brown) for terminals A, B and C. I don't see how I can pull just the B terminal wire as it is part of the plug and don't want to break it.
 

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Jeff, the readings at the plug are correct and its working properly. I have 120v at each line and 240v total.

Is there a way to test for power at the motor to confirm the motor is bad? Eric posted the tech sheet which I have a copy of as it was in the dryer.

Thanks guys!
 
F

fairbank56

Guest
Sorry, some have individual terminals, some have multi-terminal plugs. With timer on, check for 120vac to ground at timer C terminal. Check for 120vac at motor between brown wire and yellow/black wire, then when you press start switch, should have 120vac between brown and blue wires.

Eric
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,835
Location
Ontario, Canada
Jeff, the readings at the plug are correct and its working properly. I have 120v at each line and 240v total.

Is there a way to test for power at the motor to confirm the motor is bad? Eric posted the tech sheet which I have a copy of as it was in the dryer.

Terminals 4 and 5 run the motor.

I have 120v at each line and 240v total.

Good.
Tested static and working?
Try with the dryer unplugged and with it plugged in while someone is holding the turn/push to start....just want to make sure your "ran for 5 seconds" isn't a loose/burnt power wire.

jeff.
 

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Sorry, some have individual terminals, some have multi-terminal plugs. With timer on, check for 120vac to ground at timer C terminal. Check for 120vac at motor between brown wire and yellow/black wire, then when you press start switch, should have 120vac between brown and blue wires.

Eric

so when I check for power between the brown and yellow/black wires I get continuity but no power? Same between brown and blue wires with start switch turned.
 

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Ok, so I've tested power at the block in rear of dryer and have full power with start switch on and with it off. I also have power to the timer unit. However, I don't seem to have power to the motor based on checking the wire connections that Eric suggested.
 
F

fairbank56

Guest
Not sure what you mean by "I get continuity but no power?" Never do continuity checks with power applied. Unplug dryer, turn timer on, check for continuity between timer B and C terminals. Check continuity across thermal safety (top of heater housing, brown wires). Check continuity of belt switch and door switch. These are all in motor circuit. Check start switch again.

Eric
 

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
Eric, I rechecked all the switches and the timer for continuity and everything checks out good. I was frustrated and lifted up the front of the dryer and let it drop on the ground a couple times. Well, it ran and continued to run great on all settings. I shut it off and it would start back up....thought problem was fixed. So, I pulled it back out from the wall, installed the access panel at the bottom and hooked up the vent hose. Pushed it back in place and turned it on....nothing! Not running, no noise, no nothing. What the heck???
 
F

fairbank56

Guest
Sounds like there is a bad or loose connection somewhere. You need to take voltage measurements to track this down. The problem with simple continuity checks is that you are only using the low voltage and current of the multimeter while in actual operation the motor requires a lot more power and once the motor starts, a whole lot more power is required of the heat circuit. A switch contact, wire connection...etc. can read ok when just checking continuity but can break down when current demand is high.

Eric
 

Russ8

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
10
Location
United States
I will give that a try and see what the measurements tell me. Thanks again for all the advice.

I did notice that the terminals, especially black wire terminal, on the white, three prong, heater block is very loose to the touch. The black wire terminal moves a lot inside the white plastic block. Would this cause an issue with the dryer not running?

Thanks
 
F

fairbank56

Guest
No, but it could cause a problem with heating if it's the actual interface between the two terminals that's loose.

Eric
 
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