imported post
Hi,
Isn't 2H - 2 Hours? Possible delay start is set.
It might reset lower on it's own now that the ?heat is working? since you mended the board?
May take one or two cycles as the times alloted for each cycle can change on there own.
Most fault codes are an "F" code....a copy:
-- NOTE: An "F" fault code in the display for SHU/I 53/68 dishwashers shows there's a filling problem (not filling, overfilling, underfilling or water in the base). The fault code can't be reset manually – it will reset itself 15 minutes after the dishwasher has been turned on (after testing how it fills). -- -
A copy:
SHU 53 MODELS
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “21� = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ “6� = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water wont stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
Hope something is this jibber/jabber helps.
jeff.