FIXED Clean light flashes 7 times.

[Jake]

Wait, I think you misunderstood me, I said above your element was fine at 9 ohms, I only said to order it above if it was bad. So that's why installing the new heating element didn't fix it.

Sorry if I didn't make myself more clear. You can return the element for a full refund within 365 days, less shipping.

What the problem is if the element checks good is your control board.

Here's the control board for your model you can order here:
Main Control Board 8564543



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" frameborder="0"></iframe>

Jake

 

[TTOTH2K]

My dishwasher works great. Thanks!

 

[Jake]

Excellent, good job, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.

Jake

 

[lumberjohn]

I had the problem that the dishwasher would stop and the clean light would flash. KitchenAid model #KUDL03ITSS2, the unit is five years old.

The dishwasher would not complete the cycle, leaving dishes dirty and water in the bottom of the basin. To pump the water out I'd have to hit the cancel button. After some online research and reading numerous discussions of resetting codes, replacing heating elements and control panels and what not it all sounded like a crap-shoot approach and I nearly called a repair man.

I'm pretty handy and a do-it-yourselfer, not wanting to give up I came across this thread, and another like it that suggested in the video on cleaning out the lower spin-arm/screen/chopper assembly and used the same approach. This seemed like the easiest way to resolve the problem through the process of elimination as I was getting hot water, plenty of steam when cabinet opened, the washer would drain, and so-on.

I followed the instructions for dis-assembly of the lower spin arm, strainer and chopper as per the instructions in the video. All in all it was pretty easy and straight forward. One thing I might add to the video that was left out is you can pop off the mesh screen attached to the big gear like mechanism by using a flat tip screwdriver pried and twisted slightly just under the screen lid and clean that out as well.

To replace it it just snaps back in place. In the process, I couldn't believe what I found down in there as I got down into it layer by layer. Aside from disgusting sludge from leftover bits of food and what not, there were 3 toothpicks, a Lego sword, a rubber breather from a baby bottle, numerous lemon seeds, broken bits of bone and clam shells, bits of plastic and hair. It's a wonder the unit operated at all this long.

I soaked up all the water in the chopper reservoir basin and cleaned up everything, being sure to scoop stuff out of the nooks and crannies in the bottom using the blade of my flat tip screwdriver. I my case, I found sludge behind the plastic components that funnel water from the lower arm to the upper arm and the rear cabinet wall that needed cleaning too. I reassembled everything in reverse order. All in all it was pretty easy to do. After everything was reassembled I ran a full clean cycle on normal wash and voila! The unit functioned normally and I had clean dishes again.

As a side note, gunk can accumulate at the bottom edge of the door frame and the washer and along the first several inches of the door gasket. While you are in there you might as well clean and wipe those down too. It helps eliminate foul odors in the area. The gasket can easily be pulled out of it's track and wiped down then pushed back in. Remove the lower front door panel by unscrewing the lower 6 torex screws, 3 per side. The front door panel will drop down toward the floor.

I recommend shutting off power to the washer first via the circuit breaker in the house as there are wires in this area. No need to remove the top two screws, one on either side, as this accesses the control panel. Once the door panel is removed you will find that at the lower edge of the door is a U shaped channel. This area accumulates a lot of nasty gunk that causes a foul odor and needs to be cleaned out. Reassemble in reverse order and you are good to go.

 

[SyracuseOrangeMom]

Hello. I am very thankful to find this site! I have an almost 10 year old Kitchenaid KUDI01ILBL5, which is run nightly and has never had any problems.

Two weeks ago, the 7x blinking light came on. I reset it and restarted the wash cycle but there was an odd smell, my husband thought maybe the element. The dishes were clean.

5 days later, the dishwasher stopped completely in the middle of a wash cycle. He siphoned out the water, then replaced the thermal fuse. The dishwasher worked great for one cycle.

The next time I went to run it, a grinding noise was heard, and no water entered the tub. My husband checked the hoses, and cleaned the grate. The wash cycle began with the water entering, and the grinding noise gone. However, in the middle of the cycle, it stopped and the 7x blinking light came on again. I reset it, ran hot water in the sink, and reran the wash cycle fine.

The element is smooth and not pitted.

Should he next check the heating element? Is the range 1-50 ohms? Thank you!

 

[lumberjohn]

SyracuseOrangeMom, first off, tough loss to Dayton from a fellow Orange fan in Auburn, NY. Our offense worked as well as our dishwashers. I don't know if I can help, but I can add to the conversation and will pass on some things I learned and read. My situation is a little different. It actually isn't my clean light that is blinking as I had posted above. In my case it is the start/resume light that blinks continuously. Yesterday, I removed the control panel cabinet by removing the top six screws in the door to inspect the control panel. (First shut off the circuit breaker/power to washer) I released the control panel by gently pushing back on the tabs that hols it in on my model. I slid of the ribbon connector on the left side, I'd read sometimes the pins can become corroded and can be cleaned off with alcohol. Mine looked bright and clean. I wiggled off two large connectors on the right hand side that went to contacts Con1 and Con2. I found that some of the plastic from I believe it was the Con1 connector had melted somewhat and one of the corresponding connecting electrical tabs on the control panel looked a little corroded. This would have indicated a perhaps temporary short circuit had occurred. Possible cause of problems. I also found that the door handle latch had a busted tab on the right side that holds that sides spring to the rest of the door latch mechanism. This, in my case, could cause the door switch component to signal that the door was open, stopping the progress of the wash cycle. (I know this piece had been broken for at least a year and the wash ran anyway up to this point) Three possible problems, handle, control panel and wire harness. (To replace the Con1 connector you have to buy a new complete harness) I ordered a new handle, handle spring, control panel and wire harness and am awaiting delivery to install. I reassembled everything, turned on the circuit breaker, with the door open I reset the machine by pushing Normal Wash, Heat Dry, Normal Wash, Heat Dry, closed the door and pressed cancel to reset. I ran the washer and everything worked through the full cycle. Ran a wash load again last night and everything worked and came out clean again. Why? Who knows. Sometimes some things, contacts can come loose ar have a little corrosion I suppose and taking apart and putting back together can resolve that. I will still probably replace everything when it arrives. The handle is a no brainer. The control panel and wire harness because there was obviously a short, or partial short at one time. Now on to your issue. From what I have read online and from my washers tech sheet with trouble shooting guide, it says a 7 blinking clean light indicates a water heating problem. Running the reset/diagnostic test clears the control panel and will allow the unit to operate again but the problem must be fixed or you get the 7 blink light again. Possible problems listed include 1) bad heating element. This might be the easiest to check and start with. Remove it and test ohms between 0-50. I believe the lower the number the better. 2) faulty heater drive circuit on control panel. 3) Door switch not making contact consistently. Faulty or sloppy door latch assembly (which can be aggravated by high door closure force keeping strike plate from fully seating) Check the latch assembly and handle for damage or missing spring. Check door switch connection leads for corrossion, remove and replug them and clean if necessary. Check door switch resistance reading for continuity with ohms meter. 4) Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently. Lack of water to heat element. (These problems have a host of other possible causes too long to address at moment. So first I'd suggest looking at the control panel and the handle for obvious problems. Unplugging wire connections and clean if necessary and reattach. Have you disassembled the sprayer arm at the bottom and gotten down into the filter and below that the grinder? If something is down in the grinder like was in mine that could be causing grinding noises and restricting water flow. If not there is video on how to do that on this site and You-tube, pretty easy to do. If there is a lot of stuff down in there this could restrict water flow and cause problems. I also found this link re. grinding noise in a Kitchenaid: FIXED Kitchenaid dishwasher grinding noise

Question. If you are running the dishwasher awhile and stop it, open the door, do you have plenty of hot water and steam come out? Or, if you stop it during the dry cycle and feel the heater element is it hot? If yes then it probably is not the heater element. If you have water in the tub you should be able to drain that by just hitting the cancel button. The washer should then go into a drain cycle. Hope this helps. Good luck. Go Cuse!

 

[Neil Wright]

hi. i'm getting in a little late in the game. same problem for me...clean light flashes seven times. i reset as instructed and everything works fine for a few cycles...then the flashing clean light again...and reset...and a few more good cycles. the heating element seems to work fine because when everything is good, the heat is also very good: dishes clean and very dry. i'm guessing it's the control board? p.s. i cleaned out the chop screen area down below...not much to restrict water movement, but it's nice to know that at least it's as clean as new again. KITCHENAID Model KUDP02FR, Ser. # FT1510619 Type 577-0. any other suggestions than a new control board? thanks.

 

[Jake]

Ok,

I had one do this before and periodically do the clean light blinking 7 times fault, but it wouldn't do it every time and even though the heating element was heating fine, the heating had a white coating on calcium build-up on it, so I replaced the heating element and problem solved.

Does your heating element have a white coating on it? If not, then your heating element should be fine, so I'd replace the control board on yours.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
Main Control Board WPW10084141


Jake

 

[Pete123]

Your clean light is blinking 7 times? If so then replacing that control board won't fix it, the most common fix for this is replacing your heating element.
Here is the parts diagram for your model: KUDS01DJSS1 Diagram#5 part location#1 is your element.

You can try to reset your keypad by reading here what buttons to push on your model, but if it keeps happening that heater element will need to be repalced if your clean is blinking 7 times, Read where is says:
DIAGNOSTICS CYCLES AND RAPID ADVANCE SERVICE FEATURE

Jake

I have rental property and a tenant complained about the clean light blinking 7 times. I replaced the dishwasher and brought the problem unit back to my shop. I find it easier to troubleshoot on my bench as opposed to the tenants floor. I don't mind replacing a unit as the repaired unit will eventually be needed. Upon loading the unit on its back in the truck I immediately noticed the wire to the heating element was burnt and separated from the element. The wire is supposed to have a spade connector. I have since soldered the wire to the element because the spade connector was shot but more importantly the end of the element was pretty rough I guess from it arcing. This was an easy task with the unit on its back on my bench. I powered it up but still had the blinking light. I just found this forum so I will try to reset the light. I hope this helps someone and possibly saves the purchase of heating elements that simply have burnt connections. Unfortunately the connections are under the unit near the back of the machine. If you look inside the unit you will see where the elements exit the washer and you should be able to find the wire near by.

 

[Jake]

Yes, I've run into that same thing Pete, but soldering the wire to the element is only a temporary fix, thrust me on this, I did the same thing, then 6 months later the element blew out, and from then on I just started replacing the element whenever I saw that
happen.

So it would be best while you have the unit still out to replace the element or you will be out there pulling the unit again to do it.

Jake

 

[Pete123]

Jake, I still have the unit on my bench so I appreciate your advice. Clearly I am not a tech and obviously it is better to fix it now before it is reinstalled. On another note, I am unable to clear the blinking light. It blinks 7 times and pauses then repeats. Also, the lock light stays lit. Any ideas?

 

[Jake]

You have to reset the control with the dishwasher hooked-up to a water supply.

Jake

 

[Neil Wright]

hi. i had the 7X clean blink problem also. heating element is clean and heats well, so i didn't check it electrically. i replaced the control board. after replacement, the unit ran as designed for a few cycles...then the 7X clean blink started again. at this time i noticed that the "normal" cycle light would not light when pressed, so i only used the "heavy duty" cycle. i've been in the "run-unit-reset-every-time" mode for several months now...i just got used to it. this morning, that "fix" no longer works. now, the "light china" cycle and the "cancel" lights blink continuously. the old reset pattern doesn't work, nor do those specific lights light up when pressed. i doubt the control board is bad, and the heater always heats (when it's actually operating). any additional options to try? maybe the control button panel is defective? just guessing here... thanks for any help!

 

[Jake]

now, the "light china" cycle and the "cancel" lights blink continuously.

That indicates the control panel is bad.

You only posted a partial model number, we need the full model number, open the door and you should see the model number tag.

Jake

 

[Neil Wright]

update from this morning: i randomly pressed the buttons in different orders to see if anything would change. see attached photos. notice the very slight green light for "normal" cycle. remember, the control board is new (purchased from here).

model# KUDP02FRSS1

 

[Neil Wright]

do you mean the touchpad is bad? i know i called it the "control touch panel"...hey, i'm an amateur! haha. anywho...i'm guessing you are talking about the touchpad and NOT saying my new control board is bad...correct?

 

[Jake]

Yes, control panel touchpad assembly is what you need.

Another member had this exact same problem and the new control panel touchpad assembly fixed it, Look here: FIXED Normal and Light/China lights blinking

Here it is:
Touchpad and Control Panel WP8572500


Once you install this, put your old control board back in and see if everything is back to normal, if so return the new control board for full refund, less shipping.

Jake

 

[Neil Wright]

thanks jake. will do. unfortunately, i dumped the old panel. thanks for the offer though!

 

[Jake]

Ok Neil, let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[Neil Wright]

ok...here's the recap:
1. i had the "clean light 7x flashing" problem, which resulted in not-very-clean dishes.
2. i did NOT check the heating element as it looks fine (i.e. no ash or grey coloring), and the interior of the machine was always very warm upon ending a cycle.
3. replaced the control board. machine worked fine for a few cycles, then the flashing clean light problem came back.
4. reset unit as instructed and machine again worked fine for a few cycles, only for flashing clean light to resurface.
5. i got used to simply resetting every time i used the machine, which worked out, until the touch panel started lighting up strangely and i couldn't even reset it any longer.
6. replaced the touch panel and reset the machine. all lights on touch panel work fine.
7. we are back to square one: the machine works fine for a few cylces then reverts to the flashing clean light and dirty dishes.
8. any ideas? desperation is setting in...

i just saw this from the service notice related to the "clean light 7x flashing" problem:
"Once a heater fault is detected and the condition resolved
the electronic control must be reset by initiating a service
diagnostic cycle. NOTE: Using the RAPID ADVANCE
CYCLE will cause the blinking LED condition to reoccur
because there is insufficient time to heat the water.
Check the product Tech Sheet for the correct cycle
sequence.

the $64,000 question: what is the "service diagnostic cycle"? maybe i haven't reset the unit properly after having installed either the control panel or the touch pad? HEEEELLLLLPPPPP!