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Could use a little guidance on GFE27GSDASS Refrigerator Not Cooling

rossy

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Colorado
Model Number
GFE27GSDASS
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Hello,

Awesome forum! I've learned a lot looking at other related threads.

I have a GFE27GSDASS french door refrigerator which had a cold freezer, but not refrigerator. To complicate matters, the refrigerator is sitting in a construction zone of our house, which is currently not conditioned, and has been used as an auxiliary refrigerator.

The refrigerator evaporator and beneath the bottom drawer were massively iced up... ice flowing upwards and everywhere. I had to let it fully defrost on its own to even get to the evaporator section of the fresh food section. Maybe 10-15 lbs ice/water came out.

The refrigerator previously flooded out the front (years back), and I found the fresh food drain pan tube was clogged, but was able to get the rubber orifice cleaned out and draining again.

I found this thread, and downloaded the tech guide posted there... looks like it is also for the GFE27.

I believe the fresh food fan is toast (very rough to turn by hand, and test 0047 gives result 0 00 during test, and I haven't seen the fan spin on its own). If I understand correctly, the proper replacement is the: WR60X26866

I ran the tests on the thermistors (with the fridge and freezer defrosted and just recently plugged in). I'm not fully sure how to read the numbers, as sometimes 6 numbers appear on the right, not just 4.

I think they are:
Freezer cabinet Test0027 68degF 5738 19? (off by about 7%)
Freezer evap Test0028 62degF 5840 (off by about 20%)
Fresh Test0024 80degF 5274 (off by about 12%)
Fresh evap Test0026 77degF 2100 (some other pair of numbers also flashing, but then stopped)? (off quite a bit... note, this thermistor was likely buried in the ice when it was all frozen up)



These numbers seem off, so I am a bit confused... should I be concerned? I then went to see if I could test resistance with a voltmeter on ohms, at the main board. I disconnected J11, but couldn't get the meter to read any resistance through the sides of it, or by inserting a wire into the terminal block and then using those wires... so I'm not sure what to do there.

How do I verify the thermistors are OK, or is it unlikely given the drainage and fan issue?

Unfortunately, I also broke the tab that holds plug J11 in-place, so if anyone knows the replacement part number for that plug or an acceptable work-around solution (don't want it to rattle out of place unexpectedly), that would be wonderful.

Thank you in advance.
 

rossy

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Colorado
One add - looks like the refrigerator evaporator coil is getting frosty after running for a number of hours.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, it sounds like the refrigerator evaporator fan motor is the culprit.

Here's the refrigerator evaporator fan motor for your model:
Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor WR60X26866


--->To verify it, you can use a multimeter test to see if its getting proper voltage to it from the motherboard. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall, then you will see a cover over the motherboard, just remove that cover.

--->J6 Pin 2 and Pin 4

--->Pin 2=12 volts DC +
--->Pin 4=12 volts DC -

--->Put your meter on DC volts, then put the RED meter lead on Pin 2, put the BLACK meter lead on Pin 4 and you should get 12 volts DC.

At the electrical connector at the FF(Fresh Food) Fan motor inside the Fresh Food(Refrigerator) section, when the FF Fan is NOT running:
RED to BLACK - 12 VOLTS DC CONSTANTLY

If you get 12 VOLTS DC CONSTANTLY when it should be running and its not running or running slow, then that fan motor is bad.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

rossy

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Colorado
Getting constant 12v at the fan, but not turning. Fan is ordered, due tomorrow. Thank you for the guidance!

Any recommendations on this (I might need to call GE on it):

Unfortunately, I also broke the tab that holds plug J11 in-place, so if anyone knows the replacement part number for that plug or an acceptable work-around solution (don't want it to rattle out of place unexpectedly), that would be wonderful.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Any recommendations on this (I might need to call GE on it):

Unfortunately, I also broke the tab that holds plug J11 in-place, so if anyone knows the replacement part number for that plug or an acceptable work-around solution (don't want it to rattle out of place unexpectedly), that would be wonderful.
I don't know what to suggest for that, sorry.

I don't see a wire harness listed for your model. You could try a electronic supply store in your area and see if they can sell you just the metal pin receptacle without the plastic, then just solder(or crimp) the wire on it and push it on the pin.

Jake
 

rossy

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Colorado
Ok, thanks for the feedback. It's just the 'locking mechanism' that broke on the wired plug end, so I will be able to make-do with finding another way to keep it from rattling out of place, but thought it was worth asking. I may give GE Parts a ring, as well. Thanks, Jake!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,647
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Anytime!

Jake
 
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