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FIXED CSF20EBC Hotpoint No Frost side-by-side Refrigerator. Cold freezer. warm fresh food section.

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hamilton101

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2020
Messages
9
Location
Oregon
Model Number
CSF20EBC
Brand
Hotpoint
Age
More than 10 years
My out-of-state sister-in-law's fridge - last week, the veggies were getting frosted. This week, fresh food section is too warm.
Freezer section is frozen, with ice visible on the back wall.

She vacuumed the coils on the back. I had her clear the overstuffed freezer section, unplug, and blow a fan in there to thaw to see if it would revive.

Then have her check the evaporator fan. If the fan is OK, what should be checked, next?

Thanks for any direction on this.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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123,851
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If the freezer(evaporator) fan is running in the freezer, then have her take everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel inside the freezer and see if the evaporator coils are massively frosted up. Even better have her take a photo of the coils with her phone and have her send it to you, then upload it here.

Look at the photos below:

Frost Patterns.jpg
 

hamilton101

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2020
Messages
9
Location
Oregon
Good information - thank you for the photos.

Status update - fridge was defrosted by unplugging and leaving overnight. Fresh food section is cold, now, so the evaporator fan is working OK.

Plan is to monitor the temperature for the next few weeks to see if the fridge defrosts itself and stays cold.

Another factor - the freezer section was completely jammed, so the basic issue may have been the inability for cold air to circulate from the freezer compartment to the fresh fold section.

Will update in a couple of weeks.

Thank you.
 

Jake

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Ok sounds good, yes keep us posted.

Jake
 

hamilton101

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Oct 2, 2020
Messages
9
Location
Oregon
June 3 update. After 12 days of controlling temperature nicely, the temperature in the fresh food compartment began to drift up, reaching 50-degrees.

After manually defrosting, the temperature is dropping down into the 40's, now, and probably will work properly for a while.

Looks like the auto-defrost is not working.

What would be the next step in the diagnosis?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
123,851
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You will need a multimeter to ohm test your defrost heaters for continuity, normal would be under 30 ohms on the heaters. Just take the wires off the heaters first. Of course unplug your refrigerator first thing.

Then you need to ohm the defrost thermostat(WHILE ITS FROSTY) the same way. That should read 0 ohms WHILE ITS FROSTY.

The defrost thermostat is #240(clipped on the top of your evaporator coil), the defrost heater is #230 here: Parts for GE CSF20EBC: Freezer Section Parts

Unplug your refrigerator first!

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model:
Manufacturer part number WR50X55


Here's the defrost heater kit for your model:
Manufacturer part number WR49X391


If the defrost thermostat and defrost heater ohm test good, then the defrost timer is the problem.

Here's the defrost timer for your model:
Defrost Timer WR9X482


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

hamilton101

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Joined
Oct 2, 2020
Messages
9
Location
Oregon
I had my nephew use a meter to sort out whether the problem was the defrost timer or in the defrost circuit. There was continuity in the defrost circuit, so the defrost timer was the culprit.

He checked for continuity of the defrost circuit by metering the wire that connects to terminal #2 on the defrost timer to the neutral prong of the refrigerator power plug. (First unplugged the fridge). The defrost timer was located at the bottom of the fridge in the front.

Timer original p/n = WR9X462, superceded by WR9X482. Timer spec =TMDJ830RH9 (8-hours on; 30-minute defrost).

I bought WR9x502 with spec=TMDJ830RB9, with parallel tabs. The original timer had spade contacts that were flared away from each other to allow the insulation around the wires to fit in-between. We bent the contact spades a bit to match the angles on the original timer.

Electrical specs were the same: MO 120VAC 50/60-Hz. SW-3-2 125VAC 10A; SW3-4 125 VAC 1/3-HP. Same manufacturer: Sankyo. Saved about $30 by purchasing the parallel-contact timer.

Installed the timer which immediately went through a defrost cycle, dumping a ton of water into the tray on the bottom. Then the 'fridge went into a cooling cycle. Looking Good!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
123,851
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, glad the new defrost timer fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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