CWG3600AAB Old Maytag Gas Wall Oven Won't Heat

[geauxtigers]

Model Number

CWG3600AAB

Brand

Maytag

Age

More than 10 years

I can't find the model number, but this sticker was on top of the control board. I was baking a pork loin in the oven yesterday at 400. I started checking it when the internal temperature should have been close to done. When it was only 5-10 degrees away I set the timer for 5 more minutes. When I came back the internal temperature was even lower than the first time I checked. I turned off the oven and turned it back on. This did not get the oven to start heating again. Since then, you can set the oven temperature and nothing happens. It does not get above room temperature. I find it strange that the oven would stop heating in the middle of cooking. Can anyone help?


* Model number updated *

 

[Dan O.]

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The following links are pertinent to your message. They were supplied by this message author. Please visit them.

I can't find the model number

We need it to look up what design of appliance you're dealing with. You can find tips for locating the model and serial number identification tag on your appliances at the following link:

LINK > Model Number Tag Location Guide

Please use the link above to locate the model number identification tag.

this sticker was on top of the control board

That only identifies that particular part only. It does not help to identify the whole appliance.

This did not get the oven to start heating again.

If whatever model of oven you have uses a glow ignitor burner ignition system, someone will need to inspect and see what that ignitor is doing when it should be heating, ie. glowing or not.


You can read about how common gas oven ignition systems work and the observations and tests necessary to start diagnosing problems with them at the following link:

LINK > Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

I find it strange that the oven would stop heating in the middle of cooking.

Do you think it would be more likely to break when not being used??


Dan O.

 

[geauxtigers]

The model number is CWG3600AAB

I read some other threads and took a chance and replaced the glow ignitor with a universal one. This is what the old one looked like when I took it off. Looks like there was some type of short in it. After replacing the ignitor the problem was not fixed. Any more ideas?

 

[Dan O.]

This is what the old one looked like when I took it off.

The burn on the connector shows a poor connection. How exactly did you install the replacement ignitor? Did you cut off and bypass those burnt connectors or just plug the new ignitor into the mating connector again?

Any more ideas?

As I stated previously,

someone will need to inspect and see what that ignitor is doing when it should be heating, ie. glowing or not.

What is the ignitor doing when it should be heating??


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[geauxtigers]

I had to cut and splice the new ignitor in since it was a universal one. The new one is not glowing at all.

I’m not sure what you mean by “see what the ignitor is doing?”

 

[Dan O.]

I’m not sure what you mean by “see what the ignitor is doing?”

I asked twice whether it was glowing or not. This is the first time you said.

If the original ignitor wasn't glowing at all either, it might have saved you from buying that part as the problem may be elsewhere.

I had to cut and splice the new ignitor

Did you cut out and remove both parts of that burned connector that was in the wiring to the original ignitor?




Dan O.

 

[geauxtigers]

Yes, I cut out both parts of the burned connector and used wire nuts to connect the new wires of the ignitor to the existing wires coming from the oven

 

[Dan O.]

Yes, I cut out both parts of the burned connector

Good. That will rule it out as the current issue.

There are 3 other possibilities; a defective oven gas valve, bad wiring between the valve and ignitor and the electronic control or the control itself malfunctioning.

* The valve can be tested for continuity to see if it's bad or not. If it measured no continuity or infinite resistance between its terminals, it would be bad. Any continuity or resistance means the valve is not the problem.

* The wiring from those components to the control could be traced to look for breaks or other burned areas.

* Otherwise the electronic control itself might be defective.


Dan O.