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FIXED DD24SCTX7 Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer issue

Insomniac9

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Connecticut
Model Number
DD24SCTX7
Brand: Fisher & Paykel
Model: DD24SCTX7
Product: 88627-A

My dishwasher (dishdrawer) won't run. I'm pretty sure it thinks the drawer is open, and that's why it won't start.... When I open the drawer, it no longer (or rarely) plays a chime indicating I opened it. When i try to run a load and press start, it pauses for about 2 seconds. Then does a series of beeps, and then nothing hsppens... There are no fault/error codes...

I have tried unplugging it and plugging it back in. I also took the drawer apart and didn't notice anything unusual. There is a "glass" sensor on the right side of the drawer. I cleaned that hoping that might help, but nothing... I also didn't notice any lights in that "glass" sensor, like i figured I would.

Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to fix this myself and not have to hire a repair man... also, if I need parts, a referral to an inexpensive place to get them would be great. Thanks in advance!
 
Hi,

Not many techs work on Fisher & Paykel including myself, I did a forum search and found this: FIXED: Fisher & Paykel dish drawer

See if anything in that thread helps you first, if not here's the service manual for your model below.

Jake
 

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Thanks for the reply. I read through that post before writing this thread, and unfortunately, none of that works in my case.... Thank you anyway for the help!
 
Ok, I also posted the service manual did you see it?

Jake
 
Yes. Thank you. I'm looking into it now and will try a few things when I get home. If I somehow happen to figure it out, ill be sure to post my findings and what I did for any future user with the same problem.
 
Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 
I am having the same issue As - insomniac9 - with my Fisher & Paykel DD24DCTX7.
No error codes
Fills with water
END OF STORY
Must Sense drawer is open and does not wash or drain.
**I figure this is occurring because running a P1 nothing happens - no key lock symbol, no sudsing/bubbles icon - in the manual it states if the key lock symbol is not showing drawer is open. However, it will run a P2 (drain dishdrawer) just fine as it will with every other diagnostic code run. (Diagnostic codes in manual) Keylock stays lit, bubble icon animated.
1. Actuator is working
2. Tech said it was board - (display?) replaced not issue.
3. Sensor on right side appears clean and dry (some YouTube repairs suggest this is could be the cause)
4. Unplugging - doesn’t help (left unplugged overnight)
5. Turning breaker off then on - doesn’t help

if anyone out there has had this issue or knows the “fix” I desperately need to know🥺😭
 
Found out the culprit to my issue with top dishdrawer tub:
•Top drawer not washing dishes.
•Fills with water but does not cycle through. •(Diagnostic Test P1 not working).
•Keylock symbol not staying on.
The Controller Module 523725USP was bad.[$200+] (Switched CM unit from bottom drawer to top) The Controller Module sends a signal to one of the 2 round clear sensors on the upper right side of tub to the clear plastic bar on frame that bounces back and is received through the other clear round sensor back to Controller module (CM). This tells the CM the drawer is closed. When sensed open the washer will fill with water but not wash or finish wash cycle. Will not perform a P1 Diagnostic - runs motor; but will perform P2 - which drains drawer.
 
Found out the culprit to my issue with top dishdrawer tub:
•Top drawer not washing dishes.
•Fills with water but does not cycle through. •(Diagnostic Test P1 not working).
•Keylock symbol not staying on.
The Controller Module 523725USP was bad.[$200+] (Switched CM unit from bottom drawer to top) The Controller Module sends a signal to one of the 2 round clear sensors on the upper right side of tub to the clear plastic bar on frame that bounces back and is received through the other clear round sensor back to Controller module (CM). This tells the CM the drawer is closed. When sensed open the washer will fill with water but not wash or finish wash cycle. Will not perform a P1 Diagnostic - runs motor; but will perform P2 - which drains drawer.
Thanks for confirming. made a donation here and ordered the control module. tba
PART 522843NAP models starting with:DD605 DD60D , DD60S DD60DXC6
symptom: cut out mid wash, bottom Draw won't register closed, module touch buttons respond as normal.
tried moving draw to align, cleaning prism reflectors inside frame and draw side.
 
Thanks for confirming. made a donation here and ordered the control module. tba
PART 522843NAP models starting with:DD605 DD60D , DD60S DD60DXC6
symptom: cut out mid wash, bottom Draw won't register closed, module touch buttons respond as normal.
tried moving draw to align, cleaning prism reflectors inside frame and draw side.
I found the service manual here:

http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/0/055b4614-2087-4be8-ae79-5d26b5a712b3.pdf

I knew that the LED for one of my drawers was not working. My cell phone camera could see one light up but not the other (cell phones can detect infrared better than your eye.) Rather than spend $200 on a new controller, I opened it up and re-soldered the connection to the LED and sensor. Started working again!
 

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Thanks Tony- where did you solder the LED sensor (i.e., what was the connection to the controller). I opened mine up but haven’t removed the controller yet. Was there anything worth checking on the receivers (on the frame) that the sensors may not be picking up? Even using my camera, I am not seeing either of the sensors light up.
 
Thanks a lot Tony! This helped me immensely. My top dishwasher was out of commission for a year and then i stumbled upon this post. I was able to solder the IR emitter and then it worked again! My other dishwasher is beginning to crap out (randomly thinking the door is open) so i'm going to try it on that one too. Thanks again! I'm attaching a picture of where I soldered using Tony's picture.
 

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So my other dishwasher was randomly stopping mid cycle thinking the door was open. I ended up soldering the emitter but that didn't do anything. I soldered the receiver even though it seemed securely on, and that did the trick! Thanks again for this info.
 

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