FIXED Default 665 Chopper Assembly - Update #2

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rwdavis2

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665.15932000
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Here's a new set of photos from the latest clogs.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Symptoms the same. No pressure to the top rack.

Chopper still installed and cover just opened.


Chopper back from the side.




Anohter chopper view














 

Jake

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Good Photo's, did you check the check valve rubber flapper?

Jake
 

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rwdavis2

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A couple more things. The chopper screen is fully clogged when I open it up. (I left that photo out) Would that be the case if the blades were turning? Just before I opened it up on Monday the top dishes were mostly dirty and the bottom was clean. I can tell when opening it up during washing that the top arm is barely turning. Thus, I think the clogged chopper screen is the problem but I don't know why it's getting clogged.

Thanks,
Bob
 

Jake

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Turn the chopper blade, it should also turn the motor coupler shaft that its attached to, if it doesn't then take the chopper out and see if you can turn the motor coupler freely.

Jake
 

rwdavis2

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Jake
I'll give that a try when I open it up again.. It takes about 4-5 runs for it to clog up again and need cleaning. Is that specific shaft independent of the pump as the pump's working OK? If that shaft does not turn when I turn the chopper blade is the fix then a new motor?

From what I remember it doesn't look like the "teeth" on the chopper coupler reach back far enough to engage the coupler on the motor coupler shaft. The center hole on the chopper shaft goes on the end of the motor coupler shaft but the chopper coupler does not appear to go far enough to engage the coupler on the motor.
Thanks,
Bob
 

Jake

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Yes, its likely you will need the complete pump/motor assembly as I linked to above.

Jake
 

rwdavis2

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Opened it up again with a clogged screen. The chopper blade turns. The motor shaft also turns whne I remove the screen and turn the shaft manually. I really don't think the couplrs on the chopper and motor shaft are meeting. It looks like the couple on the chopper blade does not go back far enough. Here's a picture. You can see the coupler just poking out from the gray part of the sump. I don't think the chopper part reaches that far. Any way, it looks like a new motor is the last resort. If you look at my first set of photos in this post, is the chopper screen in the correct slot? It looks like it is compare to photos elsewhere. In my case if it was one slot closer to the motor shaft the two coupler look like they would engage correctly. But it doesn't quite fit into the next one nor does that chopper shaft line up with the motor shaft.

 
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Jake

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Yes, a new pump/motor assembly will fix you up, just order it from that link I posted to it above, don't worry its guaranteed to work or your money back.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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Yes, thats fine.:)

Jake
 

dpath

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Motor replacement how-to?

I seem to have almost the exact same problem as rwdavis2 -- the chopper screen has been clogging regularly, and replacing it and the check valve haven't helped. Cleaning the chopper screen gets us 4-5 decent washes before it clogs up again.

So, after reading Jake's advice in this thread, I'm in the process of laying hands on a new motor assembly. Now the challenge will be to replace it myself.

I saw that Jake posted a link to the service manual in the first iteration of this thread, but there seem to be some significant differences between our model -- a 665.91916001 (Sears Kenmore number) -- and the GU1200XT/GU1500XT (Whirlpool numbers) featured in that manual. For starters, the GU1200XT/GU1500XT has two motors -- a wash motor and a pump motor. Ours just has one motor assembly. So the directions for removing the motors in the manual aren't necessarily all that helpful.

Would there be any chance of getting a look at a service manual for our model, or a link to any earlier discussion on replacing the motor? I've done some poking around but without much success so far.

--David
 

rwdavis2

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I think the important parts of the manual are the part that talk about the disconnections necessary under the dishwasher first. What I plan to do is take digital photos step-by-step and make notes on what I'm doing. I think the hardest part will just be getting down there underneath the thing.
Bob
 

dpath

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rwdavis2 said:
I think the important parts of the manual are the part that talk about the disconnections necessary under the dishwasher first. What I plan to do is take digital photos step-by-step and make notes on what I'm doing. I think the hardest part will just be getting down there underneath the thing.
I see your point. I had to take the lower part of the door panel off in order to get under there in the first place. So far I've gotten the hoses disconnected, but I'm also going to need to document what I'm taking apart with respect to the wiring, and that's going to have to wait until I can lay hands on the digital camera again in a few hours.

Even then it looks like it'll be kind of a bear. I found two of the clips that are supposed to be holding the sump assembly in place, but the third looks like it's way on the far side of the motor assembly somewhere. Once I get the wiring out of the way it looks like I might be able to fumble around and find it, but the odds of actually laying eyes on it seem kind of remote.

--David
 

dpath

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Oh, and in case Jake comes through again, I scrambled the model number of our dishwasher earlier -- it's a 665.16919001, not what I wrote a few posts up.
 

Jake

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Thanks David,

Your Model#665.16919001 is identical to the GU1200XT/GU1500XT.

Yours has the wash motor and drain pump motor as well.

#20 is your wash motor and #17 is your drain pump motor shown here:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0130000&brandID=0582&modelDesc=DISHWASHER&modelNumber=66516919001&documentID=P0011097&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=PUMP AND MOTOR&titleID=00008

Read page #20 here in the repair manual for motor removal/replacing:
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/52521bdbd0ef763c85256cbc00520548/$FILE/8178022.pdf

Jake
 

dpath

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Thanks, Jake. It took a good part of the afternoon, but I seem to have gotten the motor replaced successfully. The trick was to take the wiring apart one connection at a time, documenting everything, and also to take out the drain motor just as the manual said. Somehow I'd managed to miss that part in the Sears manual diagram, so in fact that Whirlpool manual pretty much exactly described our setup, just as you said.

Not that it was particularly easy -- there are lots of tight spaces underneath the dishwasher, and without the camera and a light I could snake into odd corners I'm not sure I'd have made it work. Fortunately, taking the clips off turned out to be the easiest part -- there's basically no tension in them, and their channels are fairly straightforward to locate by touch -- but getting all the wiring straight and figuring out exactly which part of the drain motor to press in order to release it took a fair bit of hit-and-missing.

But it all came out eventually. The problem, apparently, seems to be worn vanes on the motor spindle that drives the chopper -- compared to the new motor, the old spindle is basically a spike with nubs. Seems a shame to replace an apparently perfectly fine motor when all that seems to be busted is the spindle, but I guess that's just the way Whirlpool rolls.

At least everything went back together much faster than it came apart. I'm sure the skin on my knuckles will grow back eventually.
 
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Jake

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Glad you got it fixed David, the easiest way to change that wash motor is to take out the complete pump/motor assembly as described on page 20 Fig. 3-16

By taking out the 3 Sump tabs and lifting the assembly out through the tub, then you have easier access to that motor than the limited room under the dishwasher.

Jake
 

dpath

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Thanks, Jake, that's exactly what I did. The manual suggests unhooking the wiring and the drain hose and detaching the drain motor before pulling out the sump tabs and lifting the sump assembly through the tub of the dishwasher. We don't have much clearance underneath our dishwasher, so that process took a surprising amount of effort.

If there's a way to pull that assembly out without undoing all those connections first, though, I'd love to know about it in case I ever have to do this again. In actuality, though, I'm not sure I could even reach the rear sump tab without pulling all that wiring out of the way first.
 
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