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FIXED DF366 Wolf dual fuel range takes 1 hour to pre-heat


Premium Member
Jan 7, 2022
Model Number
More than 10 years
I Just bought a used 36" dual fuel (electric oven) range and it takes about an hour to preheat to 350F. Is this normal?
I had a cheap whirlpool I replaced which literally took about 10-15 minutes and if I wanted to bake something quick
I would be done within 30-45 minutes and that's including with the preheat.

Yes I understand these ovens are heavier, thicker metal and it takes longer... But 1 hour everytime I want to use it to bake
something for 10-15 minutes?.

Things I've replaced so far:
Replaced the thermostat
replaced the bake element

What else can I do? Is there something wrong with it or 1 hour is the norm? A bit disappointed since I paid $7k for this range.
Specs say 13min @ 350. There is no "thermostat" so I don't know what you replaced. Diagnostics on these are pretty good. Hold clock key and timer key for 3-5 secs. Turn control knob to stone=left conv element, clean == right conv element, conv roast=inner bake element, conv broil=broil element, conv bake= outer bake element. In each test if good the CFH indicator will light.
My apologies, I meant oven sensor. I did the test you suggested and the CFH light came on in all the settings you mentioned:

Conv roast
conv broil
conv bake
Has it ever worked for you. If not I would verify 220V at the the bake element connector unplugged. Pins 1&3 are L1 2&4 L2.
No I bought it this way used. I will check the connectors and let you know. Worst case scenario is a new control board correct?
The diagnostics you did check each element right thru the control board but not the voltage so I would suspect you're missing one leg of the 220V.
Ok so I got my multimeter and I checked the following:

Voltage to the receptacle 122v one leg and second one is 121.8v no issues here
Checked voltage at the range where it hooks up to the power cord same results no issues here

I checked the plug that connects to the bake element

pins at the connector 1&3 are neutral
pins 2&4 are hot
pins 1&4 I get 240 volts
pins 2&3 I get 54 volts

I noticed the range "clicks" or cycles. When it does this voltage will drop to mid 50's for pins 1&4 and mid 40"s for pins 2&3.
When it clicks again a few mins later, pins 1&4 go back up to 240v and pins 2&3 to mind 50"s.

What do you think my problem maybe and how to fix?

Thank you for the help!
Did you unplug the connector. There is no neutral. 2&4 is the L2 feed thru the hi limit, 1&3 is L1 thru the relay board. It looks like you are missing the leg from pin 3 to the relay board since 2&4 are bridged and that's good. Getting to the relay board is not an easy task.
Took a pic of the connector. Red wires pins 1&3 connect to a single red wire in the back when checked with multimeter I get nothing. Only readings I get is pins 1/4 and 2/3. Didn't quite understand your explanation, could you tell me what maybe causing the issue?


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Pin 1(#27) is inner bake, pin 3(#26) is outer bake. Red are common and 2&4. You should have 110 on pin 1 & 110 on pin 3, all coming thru the relay board. If not you're only operating on 1/2 the bake element thus so long to heat up. I find it strange that the test I gave you passed.
so I just redid the holding timer/clock test and all of them failed (light did not come on). What gives?
For all elements? If so do it again, if just for bake(you did plug the connector back in) You're missing L1 from the board to the connector so either the board is bad or the wire is. I've only seen one bad wire where a tech installing the element pinched the wire.
I guess the plug wasn't in all the way. This time around bake didn't light up. I'm just going to order another relay control board and that should fix it correct?
I would ohm the bake element first.1-2 inner 48 ohms--3-4 outer 57.6. I honestly do not feel the board replacement is a DIY job.
bake element is brand new. Old one I removed looked brand new as well no damage or any signs of issues. One thing I don't understand is you mentioned L1 and L2 are both supposed to be sending 110v each. How come i'm getting 240v out of just 1?
Depends on where you put the other probe. As you noted above the reds (2&4) are spliced and go to each side of the TWO bake elements (110 volts). That's L2 and goes thru the hi-limit to the relay board. 1&3 each supply 110 (L1) to the other side of the bake elements and have separate outputs on the relay board. 2 or 4 to 1 or 3 should give you 220V.
Checked the ohm i get 47 on 1-2 and 57.7 on 3-4. I ordered new relay board part# 807052 it was only $230 with shipping. Removing the front panel to access the board doesn't seem that challenging especially when everything is just plug-in no soldering required.
What's your serial #? Be careful pulling the bullnose with the wires. I place a plastic box on the door to support it. Also be careful sliding out the tray and especially sliding it back catching wires.
thank you for the tips, you seem to have experience working on these ranges!. serial# 017029163
Ok so I received the new relay board. Easy job to be honest. I was careful with the wires and simply swapped everything out. The compartment where all the electronics are was disgusting (check pics). I cleaned everything off and tested the range. It took 18 minutes to reach temperature 350F. I really appreciate your help!. How much did I save by doing it myself if you don't mind me asking?. By the way, there is virtually no tutorials out there to replace wolf relay boards, if anyone reading this is having same issues, just message me and I can walk you thru the process.


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