DLE4870W LG dryer has no heat

tseibring

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
119
Location
Sheldon, Illinois, United States
Model Number
DLE4870W
Brand
LG
Age
6-10 years
I usually can test these for continuity. I'm confused about this one because it's reading 20.1 on the red and yellow and 20.0 between the red and blue. Is that mean the element is ok? The thermal fuse test ok. I replaced the thermistor and that wasn't the problem. Where do I go from here?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,668
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Where are you testing the red and yellow wires from? And the red and blue wires from?

I always unplug the dryer and access the heating element directly to physically ohm test the element itself with the wires removed from the element terminals.

Also check the cycling thermostat for continuity.

Here's the heating element for this model(Video included):
Heating Element Assembly 5301EL1001J


Here's the cycling thermostat for this model(Video included):
6931EL3001F Cycling Thermostat


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

tseibring

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
119
Location
Sheldon, Illinois, United States
I replaced the heating element. Check continuity on the cycling thermostat and it's working. I just lost.everything electic checks out fine. I thinking it's the control board. Any ideas on what else to check? It turns on runs and all is normal just no heat. Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,668
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Did you double check to make sure you are getting 240 volts to the dryer? Dryers can run on 120 volts for the motor, but needs 240 volts to heat.

First make sure your getting 230-240 volts at the terminal block in the back of your dryer. The outer wires are hot, middle wire is neutral. So put your meter probes on each of the two outer wires at the terminal block and see what your meter reads, you should get 230-240 volts between the two outer wires on the terminal block.

If your voltage is fine, then yes, all it can be now is the main control board.

Here's the main control board for your model:
EBR62707635 Pcb Assembly,main


Jake
 

tseibring

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2011
Messages
119
Location
Sheldon, Illinois, United States
I ordered and replaced the control board. It didn't fix it. I'm still missing something here. I've ordered and replaced every electrical component on the dryer and still no heat. I checked the voltage coming into the unit and yes I'm getting 220 volts. I'm in this one deep and don't know what else to do.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,668
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Here's the parts diagram for your model:

You ohm tested the high-limit thermostat number F130 in the parts diagram?

F140 is the cycling thermostat --->which you said ohm tested fine.
K550 is the thermistor --->which you said you replaced.
K560 thermostat ---> You ohm tested that one?

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,668
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good, thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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