DLL2650BAL Ignitor won't glow

porkie

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Joined
Feb 24, 2019
Messages
15
Location
Canton, MI
Model Number
DLL2650BAL
Brand
Hotpoint
Age
More than 10 years
Drum turns. Ignitor refuses to heat. Tested the: ignitor, flame detector, high, and low thermostats, timer, and heat selector switch. I get 120 volts to the connector on the valve/burner assembly when the dryer is off. None when it is running. Is that normal?

The cycling thermostat pulled apart when removing. I jumpered the two leads. Not sure if that is the problem? I hate to spend any$$ if the problem is going to be more to repair than new dryer..so I hestitated to replace the cycling just yet.

Thoughts on what I could test? Thanks for your help.
 

rickgburton

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GE Dryer DLL2650BAL Repair Parts

Take the two wires from the cycling thermostat and temporarily short the two wires together. Start the dryer on timed dry high heat and measure the voltage across the black and the white wires going to the gas valve assembly. Should be 120 VAC.
 

porkie

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Messages
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Location
Canton, MI
Thanks. Gave that a try. Only get 3 VAC. I don't understand how it can be 120 VAC when plugged in, but off. Then, when I start it and drum is turning, I only get 3 VAC.
Hoping for some direction on what to check next. or any ideas. thanks!
 

rickgburton

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OK, you're losing the voltage to the gas valve assembly. This is an old dryer and I don't have a wiring diagram. If you still have yours can you post it here? If not you'll need to trace the wires back to see where they go. On the timer there's probably a solid black wire and a solid red wire. Unplug the machine, turn the timer to timed dry and check for continuity between the two.
 

rickgburton

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Perfect, that works. Unplug the machine and set the timer on timed dry and select high heat (Cottons/Durables). Make the following continuity measurements

On the selector switch:

#3 - #2 = open #4 - #2 = closed

On the Timer:

X - T = closed B - C = closed A - B = closed T - F = open
 

porkie

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Thanks Rick. All tested correctly, except for T-F, that circuit tested closed. Could that cause the problem? If so, what would be the fix?
s
 

rickgburton

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Check again and be sure to remove at least one of the wires from "T" or "F". If it still shows continuity with the wire removed, replace the timer.
Holy Moly! that's an expensive timer and there's a problem. RepairClinic shows the timer as no longer available and APP just shows it out of stock. It may be discontinued.
WE4X620 Timer
ge-timer-we4x620-ap2042708_02_m.jpg
 

porkie

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Messages
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Location
Canton, MI
I removed one of the wires. Then tested and no continuity. I should have thought about that. sorry.
 

rickgburton

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No problem, Since the timer checks good the problem is most likely one of the 3 thermostats. Check them for continuity. Remember to remove at least one wire.
 

porkie

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Tested the 2 in the door, tested ok. The one just past the burner (on the vent to the drum), I broke it trying to remove it. I jumpered the 2 wires. Still no ignitor...
 

rickgburton

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Start the machine (Timer on timed dry and selector on high heat). Measure the voltage on the terminal board across B4 (Purple) and B10 (orange)
 

rickgburton

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Same settings, measure between B10 (orange) to B1 (red) and between B9 (yel/blk) to B1 (red)
 

rickgburton

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OK check A-B on the timer again and check 2-4 on the selector switch again for continuity. Be sure to remove at least one wire when checking for continuity.
 

rickgburton

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OK you must have a broken wire somewhere. B1 is L1 and B10 is Neutral. Since you have 120 VAC across B1 and B10, the door switch and motor switch are good. B10 is an orange wire that is connected to a black wire on the motor switch. That black wire is going to the gas valve. Since the orange wire and black wire are connected together the Neutral side of the gas valve circuit is complete and you're losing L1

B10 to B1 is 120 VAC so leave the meter lead on B10 (N) and move the other meter lead from B1 to "B" on the timer. 0V= open (broken) wire between B1 and timer. 120 VAC = Move meter lead to "A" on the timer. 0V= bad timer

120 VAC= Move the test lead to #2 on the selector switch. 0V= open wire between timer and selector switch. 120 VAC= Move test lead to #4 on selector switch. 0V= bad selector switch. 120 VAC= Move test lead to B4. 0V= open wire between selector switch and B4.

Since the timer and selector switch checked good, there must be a broken wire between B1 and the timer, the timer and the selector switch or between the selector switch and B4.
 

porkie

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I plugged in dryer, but not turned on:

Move test lead to #2 on selector switch (from B10 to #2) =120 VAC
Move test lead to #2 on selector switch (from timer "A" to #2) =0 (not sure if other meter lead was B10 or Timer A

Move test lead to B4. (#2 selector to B4) = 0 VAC
Move test lead to B4. (Timer A to B4) = 0 VAC

I did test the purple wire (B4 to Selector #2?) - tested positive for continuity
 

rickgburton

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None of that makes any sense to me. Post #18 tell you exactly what to do to find your broken circuit/wire. Did you find it?
 
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