DLL2650BAL Ignitor won't glow

porkie

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Canton, MI
Sorry Rick. That was the results.

I plugged in dryer, but did not turn it on and test results are:

(B10 to #2) - got 120 VAC
I wasn't sure which lead to move, so I tested: #2 on selector switch (from timer "A" to #2) and got 0 VAC. Not sure if this is supposed to be 0 or 120.

(#2 selector to B4) = 0 VAC
(Timer A to B4) = 0 VAC

I did test the purple wire (B4 to Selector #2) - removed it from the terminals and tested this positive for continuity. Can it be broken wire if I get continuity?

So, replace the purple (B4 to Selector #2)?

Any others?
 

rickgburton

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OK, I'll try to make it easier for you. With the dryer plugged in set the timer on timed dry (about 40 min), Select high heat/cottons. Make sure the door is closed. Connect the black meter lead to B10 and leave it there.

1-Touch the red meter lead to B on the timer = 120 VAC

2-Touch the red meter lead to A on the timer = 120 VAC

3-Touch the red meter lead to #2 on the selector switch = 120 VAC

4-Touch the red meter lead to #4 on the selector switch = 120 VAC

5-Touch the red meter lead to B4 on the terminal board =120 VAC
 

rickgburton

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Did you have the machine running? If the motor was not running you shouldn't have any volts. The motor switch needs to close to complete the neutral circuit.
 

rickgburton

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I wish I knew what the deal was with that machine. Those are the measurements you should have with the motor running. You said you have 120 VAC from B10 to B4. So keep the meter lead on B10 and touch red lead to one of the terminals on the cycling thermostat then the other terminal on the cycling thermostat then each terminal on the high limit thermostat. This is your 120 VAC to the gas valve.
 

rickgburton

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It should, however, if you have 120 VAC between B10 and B4 the only thing standing in the way of 120 VAC at the gas valve are the two thermostats, cycling and high limit. Just keep moving the red test lead until you lose the 120 VAC and maybe I can find out what's going on with that machine. Like I said before, if the motor is not running you shouldn't have any voltage. The motor switch is what keeps the dryer from heating when you turn the timer and close the door. You need to push the start switch and start the motor to complete the circuit to the gas valve.
 

porkie

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Canton, MI
Hey Rick,
I did this and could not get the voltage at all from B10 to the gas valve or the thermostats.
I did re-do the 5 test from B10 to the Timer and selector - with the dryer running. Got the 120 VAC at all those points.
Not sure if this helps, but, I test B10 to the door switch. I get 120 VAC with the dryer off, but, none with the dryer running.
We have to be getting closer to the problem sooner or later...
 

rickgburton

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b10 to the timer and selector - with the dryer running. Got the 120 vac at all those points.

rickgburton said:
if you have 120 vac between b10 and b4 the only thing standing in the way of 120 vac at the gas valve are the two thermostats, cycling and high limit. Just keep moving the red test lead until you lose the 120 vac
 
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