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Does a Samsung Dryer DV42H5200EW/A3 Have a Diagnostic Mode? Spark flew from the back

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
10
Location
MO
Model Number
DV42H5200EW/A3
Brand
Samsung
Age
6-10 years
Does a Samsung Dryer DV42H5200EW/A3 Have a Diagnostic Mode?
I turned my dryer on and spark flew from the back. I quickly turned it off.I have it apart and no power to it. When using my meter it shows there is a short..or is there an open circuit?
It did not trip the breaker.
The power cord is good.
The heating element tested good
The motor is good..

Thank you for your time and any advice,
 

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
MO
Thank you! That gives me a place to start tomorrow. Does anyone know the difference between Samsung DV42H5200EW/A3-00 & Samsung DV42H5200EW/A3?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
139,337
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Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Does anyone know the difference between Samsung DV42H5200EW/A3-00 & Samsung DV42H5200EW/A3?
No, I don't. What does your model number tag say? You can take a photo of it and upload it here.
 

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
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Location
MO
It just says DV42H5200EW/A3 but when I was looking for information I see models close to mine but nothing in depth, there is a lot of info with more numbers after the A3 some of which are: "ooo" "oo" "oooo" "1" I was just curious if the 00 was the same as mine.
 

Jake

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I would need to see your model number tag, just take a photo of it with your phone and attach it to your next post.
 

kneeldownb4me

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Sorry it took so long to get it uploaded.
 

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Jake

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Thanks!

Yours is DV42H5200EW/A3-04
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Your welcome!
 

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
10
Location
MO
Your welcome!
I am still trouble shooting this Samsung Dryer DV42H5200EW/A3 dryer! I think it may be the relay, but had another question about testing it. I have the dryer completely dissembled, so no power to use when testing. I test across one leg of the incoming power cable to ground I get 10-14 ohm and from the brown wire to ground at the relay the same, but when I unplug the relay there is no reading ---open circuit (also tested relay leg to leg and there is nothing) . where is the resistance coming from? I tested everything and can not find it, but I am just an amateur and probably did something wrong. I have the motor unplugged/connector removed.

Thank you for your time and advice.
 

Jake

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Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
I test across one leg of the incoming power cable to ground I get 10-14 ohm and from the brown wire to ground at the relay the same, but when I unplug the relay there is no reading ---open circuit (also tested relay leg to leg and there is nothing) . where is the resistance coming from?
The resistance is coming from the cord itself, which is normal.

It sounds like the control board went bad on you, do you see any burnt spots on it?

Put the dryer back together and plug it in, just leave access to your control board, then Locate the CN1 connector on the board and put one meter lead on CN1-Pin 1 (BRN) and leave it there. Touch the other meter lead to the black wires on top of the RY1 and RY6 relays. At least one of the wires on each relay should have 120 Volts AC. Disconnect then reconnect all the connectors on the board.

Here's the control board for your model:
Main Power Control Board DC92-00669Y
 

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
MO
Thank you for the help. Since my dryer quit I have been dealing with fridge & microwave woes, when it rains it pours. The dryer was the lowest priority, so it got put on the back burner.
I tested the motor, and it tests bad, so I was looking for a new one.
My motor model # is DFS270ZSEL 1
I have found a couple DFS270ZSEL 1/AL that have very good prices, however I am unsure what the "1/AL" means.
Will this one work in my dv42h5200ew/a3 dryer?

Thank you,
Vickie
 

Jake

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Hi Vickie, Those numbers on the model itself are just production numbers, we don't go by those when we order parts, we go by the OEM part number per the manufacturer.

Here's the OEM motor for your model:
DC31-00055G Motor



Let us know how it goes.
 

kneeldownb4me

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Hello!
It has been a while, I had to walk away from it, I had hoped the dryer fairies would visit, I gave up and came to terms with the fact that I must be an adult and fix this.

Once I removed the motor, I found the burnt spot on the bottom and replaced it. The hardest part was removing the blower fan. If I had known ahead of time the frustration I would endure, I would have bought the assembly with the motor (I know that is why I should hire a professional).
I ended up heating the shaft to remove the fan. I was very careful, but once assembled there was a noise and after taking it apart I found that the blower was hitting the case, so it was warped a little bit. I backed a screw out, and it turns great without hitting the anything. I got it all together and tested it...well it gets hot, no sparks or smoke but the drum does not turn.
I checked the belt, pulley, idler arm etc. all that looks good. So I am wondering how precise that blower has to be. It is just that one screw that was loosened, it turns easily by hand and everything went back together. But does the blower have to make a tight seal in order to work properly?

I am hoping maybe I just put something together wrong, but I have taken it back apart now, and it all looks right.... any ideas?

Thank you so very much for all the help,
Vickie
 

Jake

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I got it all together and tested it...well it gets hot, no sparks or smoke but the drum does not turn.
Does the motor turn on and run at all now? Or the blower wheel isn't turning?

Watch this video, it shows you how the blower wheel should be:
 

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
MO
Thank you for the reply. I realize I did a very poor job of describing the blower wheel situation.
The dryer does turn and gets hot, the drum does not move.

I installed the blower wheel, but when I put the over on, the wheel was rubbing against the cover. I backed one of the screws on the cover out, and it no longer rubs. The other 2 screws (I think that is how many there are) are tightened, it is just the one screw that is not tight. The wheel turns, so I did not think this would create an issue.
I am not sure where to go from here.

Thank you,
Vickie
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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the drum does not move.
Ok Vickie, make sure the drum belt put is on properly.

Here's the video that shows you how it goes on the idler pulley and drum:

 

kneeldownb4me

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
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Location
MO
Happy Sunday!
I had to walk away from the dryer before I beat it:) I still have not got this darn thing going..but I am determined to get it, although H has been tempting me with just buying a new one.

So I was studying the dryer and realized the spring on the idler arm was too loose, if the belt was not attached it would fall off the arm. So I replaced it and with fingers crossed I tried it and darn it! No luck! It still will not turn. I know the belt is on correct.
I am still questioning the tension on the spring, how tight should it be? The new spring is tighter but still is loose. It seems like the belt was harder to put on & off when I first started. What else could I have broke? Before the motor burnt up it had been rotating , so it has to be something I have done to it.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
139,337
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Hi Vickie,

I am still questioning the tension on the spring, how tight should it be?
It should have good tension on it.

Try again and you should be able to do it per the videos I posted above.
 
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