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DPVH890EJ1MV GE Dryer taking a long time to dry clothes.

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
Model Number
DPVH890EJ1MV
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Hello fix it people. My GE dryer takes a long time to dry clothes and will often take multiple cycles to finish drying the clothes. Many times it will stop during the cycle and when I open the door it feels very hot and humid in the drum. I'm assuming that it is getting too hot and therefore forcing the stop.

I thought this was a ventilation issue but I have checked and cleaned the lint trap and dryer vent. I have also replaced the dryer tubing in the back. I took apart and opened the dryer and checked the heating element, thermistor, and other components with the help of a youtube video using an multimeter. Everything checked out fine but I went ahead and replaced the thermistor.

I also made sure the tubing in the dryer was clean. Before it stopped working it always made a humming sound so I have a feeling it is the fan but I'm not sure. The fan rotated freely when I turned it by hand when the dryer was disassembled and it feels like air is coming out of the back but I no longer hear the sound and know that it has to be something to do with it. Any ideas or advice on what to check next or replace?

My dryer model is DPVH890EJ1MV and it is a GE Profile.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,027
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

With the dryer pulled out from the wall and the exhaust vent hose removed from the back of the dryer, do you feel a very strong flow of warm/hot air coming directly out the back of the dryer?

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
Yes, I feel warm/hot air coming out and it is decently strong but I don't think it is very strong. I don't remember how strong the air flow was before though. My guess would be that it is not strong enough but some air is coming out.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
111,027
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

While the dryer is pulled out from the wall with the exhaust vent off, its best to get a Pocket Thermometer to check your dryer heat temperature blowing out the back of the dryer. Normal cycling temperatures would be 120-190 degrees. You should see the temperature rise and drop between 120-190 degrees through the entire cycle.

Make sure NO clothes are in the dryer when doing this heat test.

Report back what you find.

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
The dryer stayed around 131 degrees while I checked it without any clothes inside.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
111,027
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Its possibly your heating element, did you inspect it to see if any heating element wires are broken and ohm test it too? This model has dual heating element wires in the assembly, if one is broken, then your only getting half the heat you should be getting.

Here's the heating element assembly for your model: WE11M65 Mica Heater & Housing

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
Yes, I checked for continuity of the heating element and visually inspected the coils for breakage. Was there another test I should have done?

When I open the door the inside of the dryer does feel very hot when its been running a while and shuts off automatically. It will feel very humid inside though and won't turn back on until it cools down again.

Earlier when I checked the temperature, I had it running for about 10 minutes before I checked the temp coming out of the back. I'll leave it running longer for the cycle and check to see if it gets higher.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
111,027
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yea, something weird is going on.

Do you have the dryer apart when your running it? If so, that's causing the air flow out the back to very weak, and will cause this problem.

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
I've had a bad cold and didn't feel up to doing anything but I finally checked the temp again after leaving the dryer running longer without clothes inside it. It read 159 degrees. Also, the dryer is completely reassembled while doing these checks.
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
Okay. So I figured out how to put my dryer into service mode and here are the findings.:

EEPROM Check: Passed

UI Test: Good

Key Continuity: didn't test

Outlet Thermistor: 73F

Inlet Thermistor: 75F ; CF Switch: Open

Moisture Sensor: 4.995 V

Blower/Exhaust: Current: 1110 RPM ; Open Exhaust. (left this running for a few minutes and it stayed around 1000 RPMs.)

Error Codes: E12-DRUM MOTOR - "Motor is not rotating or centrifugal switch is bad. Please check."

Dryer Rack: didn't test
Steam Test: didn't test

I'm not completely sure on the correct RPMs the blower wheel should be rotating at but based on other models I see online, this seems weak. Could this be the issue then?

The dryer still rotates fine. It is one that rotates one direction and then will change to the opposite direction. Again, I remember the dryer making a louder humming sound that would kick on and off through the cycle before and I'm not hearing that anymore. Should I try and take it apart again to inspect the motor or wheel itself?

Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
111,027
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Based on blower RPM, the control displays Open Exhaust (less than 2900 RPM), Dirty Exhaust (between 2900 and 3100 RPM), or Blocked Exhaust (greater than 3100 RPM), to indicate exhaust condition.

So your blower/exhaust is fine.

Ohm test your Inlet Thermistor with a multimeter. Make sure the dryer is unplugged from the wall.

Inlet control thermistor approximate resistance values:
• 120 K Ω at 69°F (20°C)
• 100 K Ω at 77°F (25°C)
• 80 K Ω at 86°F (30°C)
• 29 K Ω at 130°F (54°C)
• 19 K Ω at 145°F (63°C)

Wait, did you already replace the inlet thermistor?

Error Codes: E12-DRUM MOTOR - "Motor is not rotating or centrifugal switch is bad. Please check."

Also check to make sure there is no lint build-up on or around the motor, that would cause the motor to overheat and shut down.

Here's the motor for your model:
WE17X20854 Motor and Pulley


If no lint clog in or on the motor, see if your motor is super hot when it shuts down, if so your motor centrifugal switch is bad, and you'd need to replace your motor.

The start winding in the motor is only meant to have power applied for the 1-2 seconds it takes to start the motor and then it is switched out of circuit by the centrifugal mechanism activating the motor switch. If it doesn't disconnect the start winding, it will make the motor super hot and can damage the winding.

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
Yes, I replaced the inlet thermistor. I'll take it apart once again to check the thermistor one more time and to see if there's any dust build up on the motor. I remember it being pretty clean inside the last time I took it apart. If all of this checks out okay how am I to check the motor after it shuts off? Do I take it apart quickly after it shuts off and inspect?

Thanks Jake!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If all of this checks out okay how am I to check the motor after it shuts off? Do I take it apart quickly after it shuts off and inspect?
Yes, but you can leave the back panel off when you run it to test for a super hot motor, you just can't leave the front panel off.:)

Jake
 

Janeway

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Messages
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Location
TX
Hi Jake.

I just checked the inlet control thermistor again and it was 121K which checks out good for the temp my house is right now. I checked all the other thermostats, outlet thermistor and heating element and they all tested good. I took the motor off and cleaned it but it wasn't very dirty. I used a little canned air and wiped it off with a rag. I also did this to the blower motor which had more dust around it than the drum motor. Put it all back together again and it came back on and heated up. I'll do a real test later today with some loads of laundry that need to be done.

I'm not sure what you mean by leaving the back panel off because the heating element is on the back panel. I don't feel very safe running that thing with panels off. I'm afraid one of my dumb cats will get caught in it. LOL

If it still isn't working right, I feel it might be worth 165 bucks to try and replace the motor than buy a new dryer with the same features.

I'll report back again later.

Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
111,027
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'm not sure what you mean by leaving the back panel off because the heating element is on the back panel. I don't feel very safe running that thing with panels off. I'm afraid one of my dumb cats will get caught in it. LOL
My bad, I do see the heating element mounted on the back, so I guess there is no access panels you can leave off to observe the inside parts when its running on this model, on the older GE models you could.:)

If it still isn't working right, I feel it might be worth 165 bucks to try and replace the motor than buy a new dryer with the same features.
Yes, that's what I would do, especially since you have Error Code: E12-DRUM MOTOR - "Motor is not rotating or centrifugal switch is bad.

If you have the dryer set on AIR DRY/NO HEAT will the dryer run the complete cycle without stopping? try it if you haven't already, and try TIMED DRY and see if the dryer still stops.

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
Hi Jake.

So, there is no change. The dryer stopped after 15-20 minutes of drying. Tried to start it back up and it stopped again after 5 seconds. I had to do the same thing and wait for it to cool down and then restart the drying.

I have been running it mostly on timed dry because I notice that it will stay on longer than the sensor dry settings I used to use all the time but it still will stop on timed dry.

I will try it with air dry/no heat and see if it completes the cycle.
 

Janeway

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
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Okay, after the air fluff cycle of 30 minutes it stopped with 17 minutes left. I tried to restart on same setting for 20 more minutes and it would stop again. There was no heat inside the drum either with clothes inside. What does this mean?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Then it sounds like your motor is overheating and shutting down.

Its too bad you can't feel the motor to see if its scorching hot when it shuts down.

Jake
 

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
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Location
TX
Okay, I bought a new motor, belt and bearings, put them in and I'm going to test now. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Last edited:

Janeway

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
12
Location
TX
New motor in and it is doing the same thing. What a bummer. Have any other suggestions Jake?
 
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