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FIXED Dryer overheated and will not run

kebauc

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
4
Location
NC
Model Number
110.67042600
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
This is a Kenmore Elite Oasis Dryer.

I've been through the board and have my dryer mostly apart. But what I am finding does not make complete sense.

This morning, it got extremely hot. At the end of a cycle, a set of sheets were dry, but so hot you could hardly touch them. The body of the dryer was also extremely hot. A distinct "burnt" smell was also there. Thought it was my ductwork, and was going to run it on air dry just to check, but the unit would not restart.

Got into the diagnostic mode (thanks to this board) and got the F-25 (inlet thermistor). So I went through the troubleshooting guide and the resistance checks out (maybe not perfect, but it was not open or shorted). Thermal fuse on the outlet is also OK.

The unit powers up just fine, and I am going to go with the troubleshooting guide and replace the thermistor. But it does not make sense that the motor would not engage. I have tried checking the motor windings, but don't have enough arms, but I was able to check the belt tension switch. For completeness, I did go through all the diagnostics on the sheet from door switch to line voltage. Even checked the voltage at the outlet on the wall. All OK.

Any further insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,886
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

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kebauc

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
4
Location
NC
The thermal fuse is open. I jumped in a temp fuse, and the unit worked (only ran about 10-15 seconds)
Outlet thermistor about 10k


The thermistor part measures about 47k, not perfect, but given that the dryer will now run, so I am going to conclude it is OK, despite the error code. The other terminals on the part measures virtually 0 Ohms, which if this is a thermostat, then that makes sense as a normally closed circuit.

Thanks for the feedback. Once I get the part, I will follow up on the results. Can't speak to the clogged vent yet, need to get everything back together.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,886
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

kebauc

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
4
Location
NC
Update -

The vent is clear. Got a new thermal fuse today and ran the dryer. Got good airflow out the vent on just air dry. Started a cycle and let it run with nothing in the drum for about 10 mins, and it did not seem to get too hot. So, I start a load to dry, and the dryer did, in fact, overheat as it got to the end of the cycle. I did stop it and run on air to try to cool it down, but did not catch it in time and the thermal fuse blew out while running the air cycle.

There are a couple thermostats, how would I go about testing those? Anything else I need to worry about?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,886
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You will need a thermometer to test the thermostats, I put my thermometer at the vent where the hot air comes out, with no clothes in it, it should cycle between 115-200 degrees, if its going over 200 degrees, then you'll likely need to change the cycling thermostat.

Does the air coming out when its hot come out just as fast as when its air dry?

Jake
 

kebauc

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
4
Location
NC
Problem solved.

The heating element was broken and shorted to ground. It ran 100% of the time. I have replaced it and all is back to normal.

A local shop was kind enough to test my thermostats while I was buying the heater.

As for airflow, I could not tell a difference regardless of air/heat. Why would this be a factor?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
108,886
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yup, a grounded heating element would cause it.

Here's the heating element for your model, in case others need to order it:
Whirlpool 8544771 Heating Element


As for airflow, I could not tell a difference regardless of air/heat. Why would this be a factor?
Because if the air flow was decreased on heat dry, it would overheat as well and blow the fuse.

Jake
 
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