FIXED Duet GGW9250PW1 gas dryer takes too long to dry - have tried many fixes

[DMA_Boston]

Model Number

GGW9250PW1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

My Duet gas dryer is heating, but not enough. There is heat - as the ignitors work - but the heat is not enough the dry the clothes. I have tried "timed cycles" - this doesn't help.

Here is what I have tried already:

1. Cleaned lint from vent hose all the way to the roof vent, plus inside the machine compartment and around the heating area - there was a lot of lint!
2. Removed the thermistor, checked resistance, and it was about 7,500 ohms, so replaced it with new one that had a resistance of 11,000 ohms. The gas flame now turns on for about 5-10 seconds every 60 seconds - consistently. (So the ignitor and and coils seem to be working.)
3. I have not tested or changed the thermal fuse, as I don't think that could have failed given the ignitors and working.
4. I don't think the issue is with the moisture sensors, because when I use a timed cycle, the clothes are still not dry after 80 minutes (two 40 minute timed cycles)

What am I missing? What should I test next? Is it possible that one of the gas valve coils is bad? Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated? Should the gas flame be running longer than the 5-10 seconds every 60-70 seconds????

What is the best way to measure the temp of the heated air, and at what temp should it be??

 

[Jake]

Its either 1 of 2 things causing it.

If the flame is lazy and not strong, it will overheat the hi-limit thermostat and cut off prematurely. So first pull your dryer away from the wall, and take off your exhaust hose from the back of your dryer, then run it with no clothes in it and see if the gas flame stays on longer and cycles off and on normally.

If it still doesn't then your gas coil solenoids are bad. You gas coils can ohm test good, but still be mechanically bad.

Here's the OEM gas coil assembly for your model:
Gas Valve Solenoid 279834


A lazy flame indicates poor air flow through that burner tube, thus usually a clogged vent or vent exhaust.

If you pulled the dryer away from the wall and the air flow was strong out the back of your dryer, then the flame shouldn't be lazy, if the gas is still cutting off prematurely or the flame doesn't come back on again, then the gas coils are bad.

What is the best way to measure the temp of the heated air, and at what temp should it be??

If the vent is clear and clean you will need to take the dryer temperature--->WITH NO CLOTHES in the dryer--->With the dryer on timed dry, high heat, the temperature at the dryer vent should be 160*F to 190*F. Watch the thermometer or multimeter display and note the temperature the element turns off and the temperature it turns back on through about 6-8 cycles. They should be fairly consistent.

My multimeter reads temperature, it comes with a probe you put in the dryer door. WITH NO CLOTHES in the dryer--->Just open the dryer door and insert the probe, then close the door and run the dryer and watch the meter. Don't put the probe to far in or it will be hitting the drum as it turns.

 

[DMA_Boston]

Many thanks for the advice of testing the temp of the exhaust air! I used a thermometer sensor from the grill that I use to test the internal temp of items on the grill - dropped the sensor probe in the lint trap and it only read 115 degrees. Removed the hose from the back of the dryer, retested, and the temp rose to 190 degrees. Once I more thoroughly cleaned the exhaust hose all the way to the roof, all was good!

(I thought I had cleaned to thoroughly the first time, but clearly I had not. ) Problem solved!!!

 

[Jake]

Excellent, good job, glad that was all it was.

Thanks for the update!