DV218AEB Samsung Dryer Keeps Blowing Thermal Fuse

[jeff1]

Yes, electricity will take the path of least resistance....closed relay contacts, or through diodes and such in a meter.....a closed relay will show nothing as the electricity will go through the relay before the meter, once the relay contacts open and the power has no choice but to go through the meter, you will get a reading.

If not a bad board, thermistor -should- be telling the heat to cycle on and off during the drying process and not the safety/high limit thermostat.

jeff.

 

[beast771]

Ok, I have figured some stuff out. This is starting to make sense. Finally.

The replacement thermal cut-off, DC47-00016A is the WRONG PART.

Yes, this is the part spec'd by Samsung to be the high limit thermal cut-off, but it is WRONG.

The original part I removed was a CS-7 B-2 K160 thermal cut off, which is spec'd to cut off at 160*F.

The replacement DC47-00016A is actually a PC-17/PC-17S B-2 K85 thermal cut-off, which is spec'd to cut off at 85*F.

Obviously what's been happening is the 85 degree thermal cut-offs simply cut off because they hit the thermal limit even though the dryer is just at normal temps that wouldn't blow the 160 degree cut offs.

I've also learned the trick of smacking a thermal cut-off to reset it. Not sure if a smacked reset one is as safe as a new one, but there's continuity so I can use it instead of a jumper in the meantime.

I'm guessing since the high end of the cycling temps are 170*F that I need a new thermistor and that was the original cause of the blown 160*F thermal cut-off.

Did this ever get resolved. I am having the same exact issue.

 

[Jake]

I had this exact same problem last week on a local service call in Quartzsite, AZ. It was my 2nd time out there for the exact same thermal-cut off that went bad again. The thermal cut-off and high-limit thermostat are located on the side of the metal heater housing.

What you need to do is order and replace the thermal-cut off, high-limit thermostat, and thermistor. Make sure you order the OEM parts per our site and you can't go wrong: https://www.applianceblog.com/parts/

Then on top of that, I bought a new dryer exhaust vent from True Value hardware, and replaced the customer's entire vent, it was really bad and full of caked on lint covering the inside of the vent.

Then I put some blocks in the back to keep the dryer from getting pushed back and kinking the vent as well.

Jake

 

[Jake]

Well,

I have bad news the customers called back on Dec. 26th and said its not heating again, I'm puzzled as to why this is happening to me and everyone else, great air flow and still keeps blowing.

I referred them to a authorized Samsung repair shop that can call the factory tech. hotline to see what's going on.

Jake

 

[Jake]

I have a update to this dryer I worked on, I suggested the customer to use MEDIUM HEAT instead of high heat, and she hasn't called back since, and the clothes are coming out just as dry on MEDIUM HEAT and NOT taking any longer to dry.

Jake

 

[Rannmann68]

I ran into the same problem as everyone else on this blog with blowing thermal fuses. Blew the original and found lint in the exhaust. Cleaned it out and installed another. Blew this fuse, thought I did not do a proper job of cleaning, so cleaned all ductwork all the way to outside thoroughly. Blew third fuse. Took blown fuse apart to see how it works. Replaced thermistor after finding thermistor reading low and installed 4th fuse. Ran on low heat and seemed to work for about a week (just luck for that week). 4th fuse blew and now I can take my dryer apart like a Nascar pit crew changes tires on a racecar.

This time I took the blown fuse and drilled a small hole in the back, plastic side, and reset the bimetal fuse. This allowed me to reset this fuse and provided me time to try and figure out what the heck keeps causing this. I was thinking it was air passing around the felt seals of the drum, but this just didn't make sense.

I finally stumbled across what I believe is the source for my dryer blowing fuses. Found about 5" of the door seal was missing at the bottom of the door. This is near the intake to the lint trap. I believe air was passing through this opening in the seal allowing cool air to mix with the warm air passing through the heater which fooled the thermistor to thinking that the temperature was not hot enough and not allowing the heater coils to cool down and also reducing the air flow across the coils.

I put in a temporary seal where the seal was missing, put the dryer back on normal heat and have now dried about 6 loads with no problem. Have ordered a replacement seal for my model, DC62-00320A. Hope this helps others.

 

[LadyTech]

@justmore: DC47-00016A is the correct part. When replacing this thermal fuse, it is imperative to also change the thermistor part #DC32-00007A. This will solve the issue.

Is DC47-00016A the correct part? Earlier you said it was the wrong part because it was tripping at 85*F and needed to trip at 160*F. I have the same dryer with the same issues. I replaced the parts with what Samsung recommended. It still only drys one load then the high limit thermal fuse opens. I’m going to replace the thermistor, DC32-0007A, along with the high limit thermal fuse but want to make sure of the correct part number and temp cut off.

 

[jeff1]

Hi,

Model#?
Then we can check yours.

jeff.

 

[LadyTech]

Hi,

Model#?
Then we can check yours.

jeff.

Model DV209AEW/XAA. I’ve had the thermal fuse #DC96-00887C on heater box open 4 times. It will dry one load and within 15 min it will open on the 2nd load. The 3rd time this happened I replaced the element #DC47-00019A, thermistor DC32-00007A, thermal fuse DC47-00016A, high limit tstat DC47-00018A and the open thermal fuse DC96-00887C. Same issue again. The voltage at wall is at 239v consistently. The vent hose is not attached to the wall. I have the hose going out my shop’s bay door away from the rear of dryer. The temp cycles between 120*F to almost 160*F on high heat. The only thing that I noticed was the printed info on part DC47-00016A. I compared it to several other part suppliers and the front of mine has SST. The others have PCC PW-3 the back of mine has PTS 17S 9086 N85 The others have PW-3V X242 N85. I don’t know if that makes a difference or not. I’ve had issues with Samsung’s parts library in the past, and I hope that’s what’s happening now. I hope you can find what I can’t.

 

[Prak]

Wanting to hear what people have done to solve this problem? Hear about it a lot in the field with all different models of Samsung dryers.

 

[jeff1]

DV209AEW/XAA

I found a version 0 and 1.

The fuse on the heating element will stop the heat, the fuse on the fan blower will stop the whole dryer. Don't mix these up as they are different temps.
If I need to change an heating element, I use this one...

Dryer heating element assembly

Your temps sounds good.
Filter been checked? http://www.applianceaid.com/dryer-lint-filter-tip.php
Drum seals are ok?
Element shuts off when the dryer does?

I compared it to several other part suppliers

Those numbers mean nothing to me

jeff.

 

[LadyTech]

Thanks Jeff. The heating element and housing are fine. The lint screen, blower and vent are clear with no restrictions. The only problem is the thermal fuse on the heater box will open, causing a no heat situation. The dryer will cycle and heat properly for one load only. The 2nd load will heat a few minutes then the thermal fuse opens again.
I did find that the part #DC96-00887C is different from DC96-00887A but are being sold as a replacement part by many companies. On͏e has a rating of 85 the other 160*F, that is, if what’s stamped on the fuse is is temp. rating.
Has anyone else had this issue?
I’ve read several blogs but no solutions.