FIXED DV45H7000 Samsung Dryer error code tE after replacing heat element

Listan

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2019
Messages
14
Location
Florida
Model Number
DV45H7000EW/A
Brand
Samsung
Age
1-5 years
Hello, my samsung DV45H7000 dryer was originally giving HE error code, dryer was heating up yet the HE code. I replace the complete dryer duct heater assembly. Now I have a different error code that looks like an upside down F with backwards 3
Does anyone know what this is
It's not listed on the dryer CODE chart anywhere

Thank you in advance
Please see attached image
 

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jeff1

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Hi,

DV45H7000EW/A
Missing some digits.
I found: DV45H7000EW/A2-00, DV45H7000EW/A2-01, DV45H7000EW/A2-02.

I picked one and found....a copy:

tE

Defective thermistor (temperature sensor)

Check/Repair
Clean the lint filter because a clogged lint filter can cause this code. Check the exhaust vent system for a clog or restriction and clean system if blocked. If the lint filter and exhaust vent system are clear, unplug the dryer and check the wire harness connections between the thermistor and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire connections are okay, measure the thermistor resistance using a multimeter. You should measure around 10,000 ohms of resistance at room temperature. Replace the thermistor if resistance is off. If thermistor resistance is okay and the wire harness is intact, replace the electronic control board.

jeff.
 

Listan

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Messages
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Location
Florida
Hello Jeff
Thank you very much for the information
the dryer model is DV45H700EW/A2
IMG_5555.JPG

The lint basket, exhaust tube, exhaust fan, and exhaust going outside is clean and clog free.
on my Fluke 88 meter, I'm reading
Thermostat 1 OHM on the 400 scale (same as putting the test leads together)
Snap Switch 1 OHM on the 400 scale
Heat Element 10.0 OHM on the 400 sale
Thermostat wire to controle (blue wire) 0.9 OHM on the 400 scale
Power wire (red) from motor to heat element 1 OHM on the 400 scale

no open circuits found
IMG_5555.JPG
 

Listan

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Messages
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Location
Florida
while testing the power to the heat element, I notice no power on the RED wire going to the element from the relay on the side of the motor with the dryer running.
On the blue wire from the thermostat heat element, there is 120 Volt, on the red wire there is no voltage (combine it should have 220-240 volts)
 

jeff1

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dryer was heating up
I notice no power on the RED wire going to the element
Now it is not heating up?

Thermostat 1 OHM on the 400 scale (same as putting the test leads together)
Snap Switch 1 OHM on the 400 scale
Heat Element 10.0 OHM on the 400 sale
Thermostat wire to controle (blue wire) 0.9 OHM on the 400 scale
Power wire (red) from motor to heat element 1 OHM on the 400 scale
And what was the thermistor reading?

jeff.
 

Listan

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
Florida
Not at all now
It was before the new element assembly then after a few minutes it was giving the HE code
After the new element it give the tE code in just a few seconds and no heat
I reinstalled the old element and no heat but still the tE code

Checked everything you mentioned and found no issues
Bypass all sensors such as the snap switches, thermostat, door and belt limit switches and still no heat
That’s when I realize that I had only one leg at the heat element assembly with voltage (110 on the blue wire going up to the controls display and no voltage on the second leg coming from the red wire coming from the relay at the motor to the element

Couldn’t locate a schematic to probably diagnose the inner workings of the circuits to diagnose more
 

jeff1

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You should measure around 10,000 ohms of resistance at room temperature
about 9,000
Off for sure then.

Couldn’t locate a schematic to probably diagnose the inner workings of the circuits to diagnose more
Is the one from the dryer missing?

I couldn't find one. Maybe BB has one, we will ask.

jeff.
 

Listan

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Location
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Looks like Samsung didn’t include one and their downloaded manual doesn’t include one other than the wall power cord connection.
 

Listan

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If anyone has the electrical diagram that they can share for this Samsung electric dryer, it will be greatly appreciated
 

Wx4usa

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Nov 23, 2013
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Location
Alabama
I don't have a diagram, but the motor could be bad, there is a wire that supplies neutral to the board from the centrifugal switch. It validates the motor is running and kills heat if it is not running or a bad switch.
 

Wx4usa

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See if this helps. Note 2 centrifugal switches. I think the neutral sensing wire is between pins 5&6 on the motor. You could try jumping pins 1 & 3 on connector 7 at the board. Not absolutely positive this is your model. Proceed at your own risk if you verify it looks right. It is the Hudson Samsung chassis.
 

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Listan

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See if this helps. Note 2 centrifugal switches. I think the neutral sensing wire is between pins 5&6 on the motor. You could try jumping pins 1 & 3 on connector 7 at the board. Not absolutely positive this is your model. Proceed at your own risk if you verify it looks right. It is the Hudson Samsung chassis.
Hello Wx4usa,
thanks for the diagram, it looks identical to my dryer. I'll try the certerfigic switch/relay bypass for the red wire to the heat element
 

Jake

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Listan

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Messages
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Location
Florida
Problem solved
New thermistor was failed

Thank you everyone

I think I found the problem
I had a bad thermostat to begin with, so therefore I replaced the heat element assembly that also included the exhaust tube snap switch and thermistor sensor due to the availability and age of the dryer for a few $$ more. That eliminated the original error code (HE).
Then suddenly within an hour of normal use, the new code tE showed up. Causing 110 volt lost from the Motor centrifugal switch to the heat element.
I use the above wiring diagram to lean the electrical system as I never attempt to repair a dryer before. For that matter, I never even turn one on before.
Anyway, it turned out to be a bad thermistor
The new thermistor failed even it was reading 13,500 k ohms and the old one was reading 12,000 at the same room temperature of 74 degrees F.
While old thermistor was intermittent.
I got another thermistor today, install it, problem solved

Here what I learned
By the way, the centrifugal switch supply the second 110 volts via the red wire when the motor gets up in RPM to turn on the heat while the thermistor regulates the temperature and the thermostat prevents the heat element to get over a pre determine temperature and the snap switches backs up the thermostat.

Please correct me if I’m wrong

Thank you everyone for your help
 

jeff1

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Links worked for me.

Glad things are looking better.

Here what I learned
By the way, the centrifugal switch supply the second 110 volts via the red wire when the motor gets up in RPM to turn on the heat while the thermistor regulates the temperature and the thermostat prevents the heat element to get over a pre determine temperature and the snap switches backs up the thermostat.
For the most part, yes :)

jeff.
 
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