DV56H9000EW/A2 Samsung Dryer no heat - I've replaced everything

[Wizrd23]

Model Number

DV56H9000EW/A2

Brand

Samsung

Age

6-10 years

Hi all -
Title says it all. I have had this dryer for about 8 years and its worked perfectly. A few weeks ago, the belt popped off - so I took the dryer apart and replaced the tensioner arm. While I had it apart, we vacuumed out the inside and got rid of a ton of lint and debris.
Put it back together and it won't dry anymore. Went through all the tests I could think of (Continuity on the heating coils, tested the fuses, checked voltage on the high and low side of the heating element, etc).
The dryer has never given an error code - I can run a full cycle and it thinks its fine and finishes but everything is wet.

So I have now replaced the heating element, thermistor, fuses, blower motor sensor, and the motor. There is nothing to replace and no change. I'm at complete loss. I've even put a wet towel in the dryer when testing, paranoid there is a moisture sensor that needs to detect something to kick the heater on. I have no idea what else to test. Any ideas? What am I missing?

Thanks!

Matt

 

[Jake]

Hi Matt,

That makes no sense if it was heating before you replaced the belt and idler pulley, it still should heat after your repair, check all your wires thoroughly to make sure you didn't accidently knock one off the thermal fuse or thermostats or heating element when you did the repair.

If no loose wires, then pull your dryer out from the wall and unplug it and remove the little access cover where your power cord connects to your dryer's terminal block and look for any loose or burnt wires there. If that's fine read below.

The first thing I always do is use my multimeter to do a volt test at the dryer terminal block, where the power cord connects to it.

First make sure your getting 230-240 volts at the terminal block in the back of your dryer. The outer wires are hot, middle wire is neutral. So put your volt meter probes on each of the two outer wires at the terminal block and see what your meter reads, you should get 230-240 volts between the two outer wires on the terminal block.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Wizrd23]

Thanks Jake. I've triple checked the connections and made sure they are all secure. I was paranoid I had something backwards going to the heating element (3 plugs) but they are different size paddle fittings, so you can't get them in the wrong order... I've double checked that I'm getting the correct voltage from the wall and attachment block on the dryer and it checks out.

The only thing I haven't changed is the computer / electronics on top. Its not throwing any errors so I don't think that's it, but I might have to try it. I also had someone tell me I should flip the breaker off on the dryer and reset it - sometimes it could trip and not fully pop? Seems unlikely but I'll try it.

Any other ideas would be appreciated!

 

[Jake]

I also had someone tell me I should flip the breaker off on the dryer and reset it - sometimes it could trip and not fully pop? Seems unlikely but I'll try it.

That is very true, do that and see. That's called a hard reset and I've seen that where I had to do that to a few of my customers dryers over the years to get them back to heating again.

Jake