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DWC283BLS-1 Danby Wine Cooler not cooling...

A2z1112

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Buffalo
Model Number
DWC283BLS-1
Brand
Danby
Age
More than 10 years
Hi, I have a Danby Wine cooler that is not cooling properly . The compressor is running and very warm. The fan(heater fan) at the back of the unit is not running. The other 2 fans are working properly. When I removed the back cover there was a large piece of ice over the copper lines(See attached Pic). I disconnected the heater fan connector from the circuit board and applied 12 VDC to the fan and it worked perfectly. I then plugged the unit back into the wall outlet and measured 0 volts dc where the heater fan connector would plug in on the circuit board.
So I know that the heater fan works. There is no voltage on the circuit board where the heater fan connector would plug in. The thing I don't know is should this fan run all the time like the other 2 fans? Or is it controlled by the heater unit circuitry and only runs when it is needed? When does the heater/fan "turn on"? Is there a way to test the heater and related circuitry to determine if it is working properly?
Why did the unit ice up....What causes this?
I have left the unit unplugged for a few hours and let the ice melt. I have now plugged the unit back into the wall outlet and it is now getting cooler. I am watching but the heater fan has not turned on as of yet....When I first plugged the unit in the wall outlet the lower zone temp was 69 and the upper zone temp was 71. After about 1 1/2 hours the temps lowered to 64 (Lower zone) and 67 (Upper zone).
I know the unit is old, it came with the house. But before I go out and purchase a new Wine cooler I wanted to make sure this unit was not able to be repaired for a reasonable price.
I also realize that parts may no longer be available for this unit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated....Thank You...
 

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A2z1112

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Buffalo
UPDATE: As I said in my previous post ...I let the ice melt off of the evaporator coil (copper tubes) and plugged the wine cooler back into the wall outlet. It ran overnight much quieter and the temperature dropped from the initial 71 (Upper Zone) and 69 (Lower zone) to this morning temperature of 55 (upper zone) and 49 (Lower zone). But this morning the compressor noise was noticeably louder and more importantly there was ice forming again on the copper tubes leading to the evaporator coil. I never saw the fan at the back of the cooler running.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,045
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Check to see what the voltage rating on the fan motor is, then get your volt meter and see if the electrical connector shows how many volts is coming through per what it says is suppose to on your fan motor.

Jake
 

A2z1112

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Buffalo
Hi Jake...Thanks for the reply!
The voltage rating on the fan is 12 Vdc...When the fan is connected to an independent 12 Vdc power supply the fan works. When the wine cooler is plugged in and running.....Using my fluke meter there is no dc voltage present at the connector located on the circuit board where the fan connector would normally be plugged into. Should there be a constant 12 Vdc at this connector on the circuit board so this fan is running ALL the time like the other 2 fans?

Additionally, I tested the defrost sensor with an ohm meter. I took 3 separate readings. At room temp (67 F) the range was 2500 ohms to 2628 ohms. When the sensor was placed in ice water the ohms reading ranged from 4.83K ohms to 6.2 K ohms.

I also measured the PTC heating element and it read 1314 ohms.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,045
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Should there be a constant 12 Vdc at this connector on the circuit board so this fan is running ALL the time like the other 2 fans?
Yes, exactly, but it also looks like you may have a sealed system problem as well because the evaporator coil should have a thin layer of frost on it from top to bottom.

Use a normal house fan to blow on the compressor while its running and see if it gets any colder.

Jake
 

A2z1112

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
4
Location
Buffalo
Hi Jake, Since there is a problem with the circuit board not providing the 12 Vdc to the fan and possibly a sealed system problem as well....In view of the age of this cooler and the cost to repair.....it just does not make sense.....let alone the availability of parts....
Thank You for Your assistance.....
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,045
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I agree.:)

Glad to help!

Jake
 
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