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DWC512BLS Danby wine fridge has power but not cooling

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Cooler24

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Sorry for piling onto the thread but have a weird one. I have an older Danby DWC612BLP (75 bottle) which has amazingly been working for 12 years. Compressor stopped going on regularly. I replaced the relay / overload as well as the temp sensor in the fridge. I ran it for about a week with nothing in it and it was fine. Put the wine back in and temp went back up and didn't hear compressor come on (sat for 48 hours or so). Took wine back out and started working like a champ. Did same thing yesterday and compressor hasn't turned on since as temp continues to rise. It's long in the tooth but just feel like it's been kept well and would be a shame to just dump it if it's something simple. I'm not super mechanical so debating on having repariman come out or just get a new one.

Thank you
 

rickgburton

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It could be the control, however none of the parts are available for that machine. They've all been discontinued.
 

Cooler24

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Thanks. I noticed there are no parts available for it other than the stuff I replaced. Would you have any recommendations for something to replace it? I need a free standing that's roughly 75 (or higher). 24" wide. I see Danby makes a newer version and was leaning towards that due to price. Just seems like most people tend to get 3-4 years tops out of these now. There are tons of brands now but i'm guessing they're all made by 2-3 manufacturers? Or are there brands to absolutely stay away from?

Appreciate the help
 

rickgburton

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I don't know enough about wine cooler brands to give you a recommendation. Some wine coolers are using thermomelectric cooling. No compressor.
Thermoelectric Peltier_Cooler.gif
 

JMack52

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I'm gonna pile into this forum as well. I have a 10 year old Dany Silhouette bar fridge, (not just a wine chiller) that's worked fine up until last week. I noticed that the compressor fan, (the one inside the fridge) had frozen over and wasn't spinning. I figured it burnt itself out so I bought a replacement fan and it also doesn't work. I checked the leads that the fan plugs into and there IS 12 V there, (should have checked before buying the new fan) but it still doesn't spin? The ventilation fan (on the bottom) works fine. Compressor also works fine as I can clearly hear it.

Any thoughts or ideas?


I don't know enough about wine cooler brands to give you a recommendation. Some wine coolers are using thermomelectric cooling. No compressor.
 

rickgburton

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I checked the leads that the fan plugs into and there IS 12 V there,
Is it a 12V motor? Without a model number we're pretty much dead in the water at this point.
 

JMack52

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Yes, it's a 12 v motor on the fan. The fan is model JD1225LS1, (DC12V).
The fridge is a Danby Silhouette Select DBC162BLSST.
 

rickgburton

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I can't get anything to come up with that number. Some Canadian models we don't have any information and this appears to be one of them. However the answer to your question is simple; Sounds like you got a bad new fan. If you have a 12V fan and you have 12 VDC going to said fan and the fan doesn't run....... (Can't get anything to come up with that part number either). Sorry I couldn't be more help.
 

Dan O.

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JMack52 said:
I noticed that the compressor fan, (the one inside the fridge) had frozen over

The fan inside the refrigerator is the evaporator fan. A motor at the rear by the compressor would be the condenser fan (if used). JFYI


rickgburton said:
I can't get anything to come up with that number.



I found a parts list for DBC162BLSST but no parts diagrams for it. It lists a compressor and evaporator so it's not a thermal-electric cooling system.

The evaporator fan is part # "DG7-3.1-BH". There's also an electronic control listed but no defrost heater I can see..


JFYI

Dan O.
 
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JMack52

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The one pictured is the correct fridge.

The troubleshooting gets even stranger...thinking the new evaporator fan might be bad, I disconnected the compressor/ventilation fan, (the one on the bottom) which still works and plugged the new evaporator fan in to that connection and it worked perfectly.

I quadruple checked the voltage on the connection for the evaporator fan and it is 12.13 V. Thinking the connection between it and the fan was maybe bad, I plugged a different connector into it and tested the leads coming off of it....12.13 V. But still, when I plug the new evaporator fan into it, it doesn't turn on. This is the same fan that I just proved worked by plugging into the lower ventilation fan connection.

I'm absolutely baffled. The compressor works good. The compressor fan works good. The coils in the back of the fridge get cold (frosty). There is 12v to the evaporator fan but the new evaporator fan doesn't turn on. I really, really don't want to have to buy a new fridge but I'm at a complete loss as to what the next step should be.
 

rickgburton

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JMack52

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There is ~12.13 V at both of the fans, (evaporator and condenser).
Both fans work when plugged into the condenser power supply but when I plug the evaporator fan in to the evaporator power supply, it doesn't turn...even though there is 12.13 V there.
 

rickgburton

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Leave the evaporator fan plugged in and measure the voltage through the back of the connector. This might help.
safety pin 500x250.jpg
 

JMack52

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I just checked again and with the fan not plugged in, there was still 12.13 V. Then I plugged the fan in and measured the voltage through the back of the connector and it was 2.399 V. I also measured it on the fan side of the connector as well and it was also 2.399 V. I Any idea why there would only be 2.4 V with the fan plugged in when the there is full 12 V when the fan isn't plugged in>

I didn't need to use the safety pin trick as I have long probes for my multimeter but that is a great trick that I certainly remember for the future.
 

rickgburton

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Any idea why there would only be 2.4 V with the fan plugged in when the there is full 12 V when the fan isn't plugged in ...
Yes, the control board is bad.
 

domtor

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The relay is part # QP2-4.7, the overload # B95-120.

The original parts might be hard to locate. If you can't, the following universal relay/overload kit should be able to be used in place of both those components.


LINK > Universal 1/8th HP Compressor Relay/Overload Asm.


Dan O.
Thanks Dan, I finally received the parts, relay and overload, fit nicely on the 3 prongs. However the wires that connect to the pins were removed by someone else who tinkered with the fridge. Only have maretted connctions that lead to Thermoasat and lighting(I am assuming) .The wiring schematic is partly torn so I can'tsee if only 2 pins are used or all 3. RED on top for overload, then I assume BLK on one of the relay pins. would you know if there is a 3rd connector required?
Any input appreciated.
 

Dan O.

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domtor said:
I finally received the parts, relay and overload


Which parts did you receive, the direct replacement relay and overload or the universal relay?


domtor said:
I can'tsee if only 2 pins are used or all 3.


Are you referring to the pins on the compressor that the relay and overload attach on to??



.
 

domtor

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yes, the 3 pins on compressor 1 top 2 lower.
I did not order the universal relay, I received 2 separate components.
My relay qp-02-4.7 has 2 connectors, for the flat wire 120 volt and Neutral connectors to connect to, (the one you sent in link only had one, for the pin on the right.)
Mine has connectors on left and right (start and run).
My Overload does not look like the one in your link, MIne is aliexpress.ru/item/32845922967.html
I did some more research on the wiring, and when a coil type relay is used, the 120v load connects to top Overlaod and the Neutral to RUN connector. The relay that I have however shows the 120v load connecting to the RUN and Neutral connects to Overload. This is where my confusion lies.
Also, I do not have a Start capicitor
I should of ordered a Universal relay, may of been easier.

Thanks again
 

Dan O.

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domtor said:
yes, the 3 pins on compressor 1 top 2 lower


The overload protector goes onto one of those pins, the relay goes into the other 2 pins.


domtor said:
My relay qp-02-4.7 has 2 connectors, for the flat wire 120 volt and Neutral connectors to connect to, (the one you sent in link only had one, for the pin on the right.)


Than it is not the correct relay.

The second terminal on the relay is not the neutral. The other terminal on the relay is for a run capacitor. Power connects to the relay and overload.


domtor said:
My Overload does not look like the one in your link, MIne is aliexpress.ru/item/32845922967.html


That is a newer design of overload.

It looks like the relay and overload you received are not correct, I'm sorry to say. I'll see if I can determine if it's the wrong part #s in the parts list or they simply sent the wrong components. It's sometimes difficult getting parts for these off-brand products, especially older ones.


You might need to try the universal relay/overload as the relay you received won't accommodate a run capacitor.


Dan O.
 
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