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DWC512BLS Danby wine fridge has power but not cooling

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Dan O. said:
The relay is part # QP2-4.7
I'll see if I can determine if it's the wrong part #s in the parts list or they simply sent the wrong components. It's some

QP2-4.7 does appear to be the correct number but it looks different at this link. Their site definitely shows the picture of a different relay than here: encompass.com/item/10282954/Silhouette/QP2-4.7/

I can't find a photo of the overload. I'm not sure where the mixup is, at the manufacturer or RepairClinic

In the sake of expediency, you might want to consider the universal relay and send those components back for refund.

Dan O.
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It doesn't matter what it looks like or how many terminals it has. Just follow these rules; The overload is connected to the Common compressor pin and one line of power is connected to the overload. The relay is connected to the Start pin and the Run pin. The other line of power is connected to the relay terminal over the Run pin. Here you go:
PIN ID.jpg
slightly frustrated.... let me pile on the initial question in this thread.

I have a Danby DWC612BLP, 15+ years old, working fine until 6 months ago, when cooling stopped. Current status is
  • power is on the unit
  • temp control is lit and indicates the ambient temp in the unit
  • I can select a lower temp, but the compressor doesn't turn on.
  • PTC replaced, no change.
However, if I unplug the unit (or a power outage occurs), wait a few minutes, then plug in, the unit operates correctly:D, cooling to the desired temp (compressor starts, condenser gets warm, etc.). Once it gets to the selected temp, unit cuts (per normal), but then NEVER restarts:confused:.... the unit temp slowly rises until inside and outside temp are same. I can try to select a lower temp, but does not start (all lights work and temp displays and is correct).

I can reproduce... i.e. pull the plug again, wait.... re-plug and it will start cooling again.


Like other's, I'd rather not toss this out when it can be fixed.

Thanks for any help

Jon T
Check the cold control for continuity.
Thanks for the suggestion...... Being a novice, I'm assuming you mean the NTC sensor.... which seems to be operating correctly (applying a temp, my hot hand ;),to the sensor causes the ohms to change, see pics).
temp 2.jpg
temp 3.jpg
Other ideas
OK, the problem is going to be the control board. All my parts resources show it as no longer available. Sorry. You might check out places like corecentrics or board medics that rebuild boards.
Hi. Another question re PTC. Most PTC relays out there are 1 and 3 pins and two holes. My reading suggests that the 1 and 3 pin is now the power surge protector and the relay in one. How does that work when you have three prongs from the compressor and the current PTC only have two holes for the three prongs from the compressor? Am I replacing just the PTC with the 1 or 3 pin and not the surge protector? if so, which two pins do you attach to on the 3 pin and which one do you leave off on the one pin?

Confusing even with your picture above.

Besides above my problem:
Silhouette DWC612BLP 75 bottle capacity.
noted recently that it was not cooling.
took everything out and banged around the compressor and PTC box .
started working again.
noted that temp on the monitor read 50 but mid refrig thermometer was 58 and lower shelf near bottom was 48.
ran for 2 weeks well, than stopped and started again.
what are your thoughts? change the PTC? temp gauge bad or the circuit board?
Confusing even with your picture above.
When the compressor circuit is first energized the solid state relay has low resistance 3-12 ohms and both run and start windings are energized to start the compressor. The run capacitor is bypassed by the relay. When the self-heating solid state relay has reached temperature it will change from low resistance 3-12 ohms to high resistance 10k-20k ohms and switches off the start windings. The only purpose of the run capacitor is to improve compressor operating efficiency.
R-relay overload PTC.jpg
R-PTC Relay.jpg

change the PTC? temp gauge bad or the circuit board?

Is the compressor running? If not, do you have 120 VAC at the compressor-
R-relay overload and start device.jpg
hey thanks for the rapid response. the compressor is running since and it does cool. just don't understand why sometimes it doesn't kick on and the temp gets up to 64 ambient room temp and takes 24 hr to kick back on. I don't understand the problem why it does that.
yes. assume it is since it is plugged into wall outlet and have a freezer refrig on the same circuit.
assume it is since it is plugged into wall outlet
Never assume, I didn't ask if had 120 VAC to the machine. You need to break out you meter and measure the voltage from the wire on the overload and the wire on the relay. Is that 120 VAC?
OK, the problem is going to be the control board. All my parts resources show it as no longer available. Sorry. You might check out places like corecentrics or board medics that rebuild boards.

Hi Rick,
Thanks for the continued support.... I just can't let this thing go (I hate throwing stuff in the trash!!). You mention the "control board" as the next logical step. Would this be the same as the
"DWC612BLP DISP BOARD (FAN LED)"?? danbyapplianceparts.ca/product/display-board I can't see where else there would be a control board in the fridge.

thanks in advance for the help.

Jon T
Behind the machine. #32 in this diagram. Part #610.32 discontinued and no longer available.
Morning Rick,
Pulled the PC board (below) from the unit and 'hounded' local Danby office for a replacement. They have indicated that this board: danbyapplianceparts.ca/product/pc-board-4 is compatible....

Any thoughts before I invest the $50?? Curious if there is a way to test the existing board to see if it is kaput?

thanks for your continued guidance




  • pc board.jpg
    pc board.jpg
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Hi, quick question along these lines, I have an older model, Danby DBC514BLS, which has run for about a dozen years but recently stopped cooling. Still lights up, etc. I replaced the relay, and the compressor fan which was not turning; the compressor still gets warm and the copper tubing coming from it gets cold, but the temp in the refrigerator doesn't get colder (if I plug it in and it shows as 69, it actually warms up a little)… Any other thoughts on other parts that might need replacement (if I can find them)? Thanks!
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