• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

FIXED E30MO65GSSA Electrolux microwave not heating?

DTS

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
7
Location
AL
Model Number
E30MO65GSSA
Brand
Electrolux
Age
1-5 years
Hello again,

My Electrolux microwave, an E30MO65GSSA, has stopped heating, despite operating normally otherwise, ie. the display is fine, turntable is functioning, fan is work, lights work. We used it last night with absolutely no problems, but this morning it has gone on strike apparently and refuses to work. Last night's cooking included no surprises or failures, no odd popping, buzzing, etc.

I've read several threads about fuses being bad, which results in the entire microwave being dead typically. I don't know if that's the case with this brand/model, however. I've also read that the magnetron is typically the culprit in cases like this, but wanted to ask prior to tearing the thing apart. I also have no manual for this unit, so any advice on locations of parts, troubleshooting and such will be greatly appreciated. I just pray that it isn't as expensive to repair as the damned Electrolux oven below it.

Thanks!
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,008
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

I've read several threads about fuses being bad, which results in the entire microwave being dead typically
Correct, normally nothing happens when a fuse lets go.

I've also read that the magnetron is typically the culprit in cases like this
Yes.

I also have no manual for this unit, so any advice on locations of parts
I know of no manuals. This link here may help.

jeff.
 

mrand

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Dallas
Perhaps it is one of the door/latch sensors, or the latch itself. When my microwave door latch broke, the microwave appeared to work, but would not heat. It would have the same behavior of the latch was fine, but sensor went defective.Marc
 

DTS

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
7
Location
AL
Thanks for all of the info and help once again! The magnetron was bad and I was able to repair the unit and get it working again for about $200. The only hangup that I had about fixing the unit myself was the high voltage cap, but discharging it wasn't nearly as bad as expected, thankfully.
 

a1certified

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2017
Messages
2
Location
Washington, DC
I have this same microwave and the same symptoms of the unit appearing to be functional (control panel works, turntable turns, light comes on, etc.) but no heat. Seems no heat in either microwave or convection oven modes. I tested continuity of all HV wiring and tested each component (transformer, capacitor, diode, magnetron, door switch) and all seemed to check out. Never the less, I've replaced (with new parts) the magnetron, the transformer, the capacitor, and the diode to no avail. Still the same symptoms. I found my old Kill-a-Watt and observed that under microwave operation, it is only drawing about 77 watts. At rest it draws 4 watts. Shouldn't this unit draw more than 1000 watts during operation? Any thoughts on what I should try next to get this unit working again?
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,008
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

I have this same microwave
This one?...E30MO65GSSA

I've replaced (with new parts) the magnetron, the transformer, the capacitor, and the diode to no avail. Still the same symptoms.
Changed all of these at the same time or one at a time?
Have you checked for 110-120 volts AC coming into the high voltage transformer?
Confirm 110-120 volts AC is entering the primary coil on the high voltage transformer....meter works but can be fooled, I usually rig up a light socket and household light bulb and hook that to the 2 input wires for the transformer and see if the light works or not when you run the microwave....can even set a power level and watch the light go on and off.

jeff.
 

a1certified

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2017
Messages
2
Location
Washington, DC
Yes, that one.

First swapped out the transformer. Then the magnetron. Then the capacitor. Last the diode. Testing in between each swap yielded the same "no heat" result.

You just hook a light socket to the two "bottom" leads of the transformer?
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,008
Location
Ontario, Canada
You just hook a light socket to the two "bottom" leads of the transformer?
And volt meter to the input leads of the high voltage transformer.

jeff.
 
Top