EAC-51-1 Whirlpool ice system no voltage to water solenoid

[Rigz38]

Model Number

EAC-51-1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

Hello all! I have an oldy but goody whirlpool ice system eac-51-1. It makes great ice (or did) I have replaced the water inlet solenoid a couple of times. I noticed water pump making a noise and was empty so I figured it was time to replace valve again. Well after changing valve and it still not working I checked voltage to the valve and I'm getting 3 volts. I am stumped on where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated!

 

[rickgburton]

Recheck your model number. Nothing comes up with that one.

 

[Rigz38]

This is a picture of model

 

[Jake]

I found it Rick, but this looks like its 30 or 40 years old:

Parts for Whirlpool EAC511 / Ice Machine - AppliancePartsPros.com

Original, high quality parts for Whirlpool EAC511 / Ice Machine in stock and ready to ship today. 365 days to return any part.

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[rickgburton]

OK, 40 years old and uses R12. I'm not going to find a wiring schematic. Do you still have yours Rigz? Can you post a copy here?

 

[Rigz38]

Wow! 35 years old, it made great ice until this latest issue. Attached is wiring schematic

 

[Rigz38]

40 years old..here is one without flash on

 

[Rigz38]

It has some connections I'm not familiar with on wiring. I have attached a few pictures. I'm a nh3 tech so experienced on refrigeration cycle on a large scale but not so much with this ice machine.

 

[rickgburton]

Looks like you need to check the evaporator thermostat for continuity. Those just look like splice connections in your picture.

 

[Rigz38]

Looks like you need to check the evaporator thermostat for continuity. Those just look like splice connections in your picture.

Rick, not quite sure how to go about checking it. I do have a meter. The copper line (assuming evap thermostat line?) Going to evap has corrosion. What is the correct procedure to check it with meter?

 

[Rigz38]

Rick, not quite sure how to go about checking it. I do have a meter. The copper line (assuming evap thermostat line?) Going to evap has corrosion. What is the correct procedure to check it with meter?

The line goes back to the "thickness" of ice dial

 

[Rigz38]

The line goes back to the "thickness" of ice dial

One more thing..how does the evap thermostat work in correlation with the water valve not getting voltage? Sorry for all the questions but I like to learn

 

[rickgburton]

Your pictures are too close and I can't make out the parts. The water valve needs 120 VAC to open. One side of the water valve coil is Neutral, the other side is L1. The neutral side of the coil is connected to the neutral side of the power cord. The L1 (hot) side or circuit path is from the power cord to the on off switch to the bin thermostat (A) to the evaporator thermostat (B) through the evaporator t-stat to the water valve coil.

So follow the L1 wire on the water valve coil back to a splice with one wire going to the hot gas solenoid and the other wire going to the evaporator thermostat. The way it is in the wiring diagram the evap t-stat is open to the water valve and closed to the compressor, the condensor fan motor and water pump. When the evap t-stat gets cold enough it opens the circuit to the fan motor and water pump and both turn off. It closes the circuit to the water valve and hot gas solenoid and both turn on.

 

[Rigz38]

Thank you for the reply. That all makes sense now

 

[rickgburton]

Cool!