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FIXED EC3JHAXRL00 Whirlpool side by side hot frame, clicking, hot compressor


Premium Member
Sep 12, 2015
Model Number
For several months I noticed the edges of the fridge were hot, especially the divider between fridge & freezer sides. Then the other day clicking noises started. After google search I thought it might be dust collected. I unplugged it & opened the back and removed the front grille and vacuumed as best I could, but it's not easy getting dust off the condenser. It was unplugged for about 20 minutes and when I plugged it back in, it sounded like it was trying to build up pressure for a couple minutes. It is still clicking...almost constantly now. I have the temp set at freezer: 0, fridge: 33. It has gone as high as freezer: 8, fridge: 44. But only temporarily. It is so far staying at 0 & 33 for the majority of the time. The compressor is very hot. I pulled the fridge away from the wall & placed a box fan behind it to try and cool it as much as possible, but after a few hours the compressor is still pretty hot. This fridge does not have a start relay, it has an inverter board. The fridge is almost 9 years old. I'm mechanically inclined & I have done some of my own auto repairs, and usually try fixing things around the house myself before spending money for service calls. I'm not sure what to try first. Suggestions?

Here's the parts diagram for your model: Parts for Whirlpool EC3JHAXRL00: Unit Parts

#24 is your condenser fan motor which sits near the compressor. #2 is the condenser fan motor blade.

The number 1 cause of a hot divider in the front is either that condenser fan motor is not running, or something is stuck/jammed in the blade keeping it from running.

I'd check that first since you didn't mention it above.

Let us know what you find.

Whirlpool side by side hot frame, clicking, hot compressor

Thanks Jake,

Sorry, I meant to mention that at the same time the click happens, the fan power cuts out making the fan slow, but a second later after the click, the fan powers again & speeds up. It cycles over and over.. click, fan slows, fridge tries to run... click, fan slows, etc. Does that help?
And it's maintaining temp freezer 0°, fridge 33°...
Last edited:
I appreciate your help Jake. I decided to order the Capacitor $0.67 and Relay $3.15 from Digi-Key and have them sent 2nd day air. The $99.95 + shipping to send the board out for repair is tempting, but the fridge is fully stocked right now, and I don't want to have to wait for the shipping back & forth...no place else to put my food. Hopefully I will have success repairing the board, and be able to get it done before the temp rises too much. If not, at least it will only be about $34 out of pocket. I will let you know how it works out. Thanks!
Ok, that's fine, yes keep us posted.

FIXED: Whirlpool side by side hot frame, clicking, hot compressor

I am grateful that I found ApplianceBlog.com! And also grateful for Jake's input! Jake helped me narrow it down to the electronic control board. The fridge was cooling okay, but the frame was hot (especially the center divider), and the fan was clicking on and off. Jake suggested sending the control board out to be repaired because the part is obsolete.

I searched the internet some more and found a website SteveJenkins.com. He had the same exact symptoms in a fridge with this same control board. He attempted repair of the board himself. He diagnosed that he needed a Capacitor and a Fan Relay. Here is the link for

How to Fix a Whirlpool KitchenAid W10219463 / 2307028 Control Board for $6

After doing the reading, I purchased the parts from Digi-Key.com

Steve mentions a few different part numbers for the Capacitor. I chose the upgraded Capacitor that still fits (it’s taller than the original one), and it’s supposed to last the longest. On the Digi-Key website I searched for Capacitor EEU-EB1J221 which is a Panasonic. The Digi-Key part number is P13141-ND for $0.67 each. I also purchased their Fan Relay part number Z225-ND (manufacturer part G5Q-14 DC12) for $3.15. That’s a total of $3.82 total! There was tax and shipping, and I opted for 2nd day air. The parts arrived exactly on time.

I then went out and bought a soldering kit from Northern Tools. They have a website, but there is a local store. It’s an Ironton 30 watt soldering iron kit Item # 43985 for $10.00. I would recommend a stronger iron... maybe 45 watt. This one worked, but I had some trouble. I didn’t use the solder that came in the kit. I bought some solder electrical solder which contains flux at Lowes… BernzOMatic Electrical solder 3 oz lead free rosin core solder for $10.00. I watched a video How to solder a circuit board:

How To Solder Electronic Circuit Board - Yahoo Video Search Results

The video was very good, but I will have to say that desoldering the old capacitor and relay and then resoldering the new ones on were not as easy as I thought it would be. I am glad I practiced a bit first using the bottom of an old corningware baking dish and practicing dripping solder onto it.

I replaced and soldered the new capacitor and relay and re-installed the board per SteveJenkins.com instructions. I said a few prayers before, during, and as I was about to plug the fridge back in. I checked the temp and the freezer had gone up to 12° and the fridge up to 44° while I was working on the board. After plugging the fridge in I had to wait about 10 minutes before things finally kicked in and the fan started running again. NO CLICKING! After about a half hour, the fridge was back to 35° and the freezer was at 10°. During the next 30-45 minutes the fridge got back to 0°.

For anyone that is not mechanically inclined or who does not have a fair amount of patience, I would recommend sending out the board to have it repaired. You can have it done for $99.95 + shipping at Circuit Board Medics (800)547-2049. You will have to find another way to store your food while you send it out and wait for it to come back. I tried the repair myself 'cuz I didn’t want to have to pull all the food out and find a way to store it. I got lucky and the repair worked for me. But I was prepared to run to Lowe’s and pick up a small 5-7 cu ft freezer for $158.00 if the repair was a fail. Circuit Board Medics has an option to send you out a loaner board for you to use while yours gets repaired, but you have to pay $399.99 + $250.00 core charge, and they refund you the $250.00 when they get the loaner back, but that’s quite a chunk of change.

Thanks to this blog and a few other websites I was able to repair this myself in about 1 ½ hours… and I am a 59 year old female. Thanks ApplianceBlog.com and thanks Jake!

Excellent Terri, Good job!

Thanks for the detailed update!

After doing the reading, I purchased the parts from Digi-Key.com

Replaced 2 caps and relay and that fixed it. Did not even bother to trouble shoot. Thanks for the info.

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