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Electrical Requirements for GE Drop-In Range


Premium Member
Sep 11, 2014
United States
Model Number
THIS IS A TWO-PART QUESTION. In an earlier post, I mentioned replacing a 30+ year old GE drop-in with this new range. The existing electrical breaker has no identification, nor does the electrical cable. It is 220V of that I'm sure. The plate on the old range shows a maximum draw of 11.1 KW, which would 'suggest' about a 50-AMP protection. Since the new range requires 40-amps, I am going to assume the wiring is adequate, even if I change the breaker. Am I making sense?

The installation manual gives instructions for a hard-wire connection, yet both Sears and USAppliance websites tried to sell me a 3-prong plug (not included). I am going to assume the installation manual is correct and it'll be hard-wired. Here's the 2nd question: The existing Junction Box in the cabinet that connects the house power supply to the appliance BX cable is obscured by other cabinetry. Can I disconnect the existing appliance BX from the old range and run it to a new JB at the suitable height and location for the new range? or run it directly to the new range?

I tend to plan ahead (I don't have the new range yet).
The breaker (40 Amp) and Romex wire is the correct size for your new range. You can run it directly to the range terminal block.
The breaker (40 Amp) and Romex wire is the correct size for your new range. You can run it directly to the range terminal block.

Thanks, Rick! I know I'm a bit on the other side of strict electrical practices here. But can I use the existing 4' of BX instead of the Romex to the block or do I need to create another JB and run the existing BX to it and Romex from it?
You should be good with just the existing wires. I go by my main rule when replacing a range or cooktop and hard wire vs power cord. I got to figure the previous range was doing just fine on the existing power supply, so should the new machine. I do a good visual on the wires and as long as there's no obvious signs of problem like cracked insulation or frayed wires it's good to go. My main rule: "If it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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