Electrical Requirements for GE Drop-In Range

[teoteodore]

Model Number

JD630SFSS

THIS IS A TWO-PART QUESTION. In an earlier post, I mentioned replacing a 30+ year old GE drop-in with this new range. The existing electrical breaker has no identification, nor does the electrical cable. It is 220V of that I'm sure. The plate on the old range shows a maximum draw of 11.1 KW, which would 'suggest' about a 50-AMP protection. Since the new range requires 40-amps, I am going to assume the wiring is adequate, even if I change the breaker. Am I making sense?

The installation manual gives instructions for a hard-wire connection, yet both Sears and USAppliance websites tried to sell me a 3-prong plug (not included). I am going to assume the installation manual is correct and it'll be hard-wired. Here's the 2nd question: The existing Junction Box in the cabinet that connects the house power supply to the appliance BX cable is obscured by other cabinetry. Can I disconnect the existing appliance BX from the old range and run it to a new JB at the suitable height and location for the new range? or run it directly to the new range?

I tend to plan ahead (I don't have the new range yet).

 

[rickgburton]

The breaker (40 Amp) and Romex wire is the correct size for your new range. You can run it directly to the range terminal block.

 

[teoteodore]

The breaker (40 Amp) and Romex wire is the correct size for your new range. You can run it directly to the range terminal block.

Thanks, Rick! I know I'm a bit on the other side of strict electrical practices here. But can I use the existing 4' of BX instead of the Romex to the block or do I need to create another JB and run the existing BX to it and Romex from it?

 

[rickgburton]

You should be good with just the existing wires. I go by my main rule when replacing a range or cooktop and hard wire vs power cord. I got to figure the previous range was doing just fine on the existing power supply, so should the new machine. I do a good visual on the wires and as long as there's no obvious signs of problem like cracked insulation or frayed wires it's good to go. My main rule: "If it ain't broke don't fix it!"