FIXED Electrolux Refrigerator E23BC78IPS7 - ice maker won't fill

[officialmark]

Model Number

E23BC78IPS7

Brand

Electrolux

Age

6-10 years

Decided to fix ice maker that was frozen for 1+ year. Took a hair dryer to defrost. Disassembled everything, everything defrosted and dry, put back together.

Issue now is the ice machine won't fill. I get continuity on all "3" inlet valves behind the fridge. I did test 55 and 58 to check for water and that the ice tray rotates and both work. I did the water dispensing in the ice tray storage 2-3 times and the pressure seemed fine every time. The water dispenser on the front of the fridge has and does work perfectly even when the ice maker was frozen.

Basically I'm trying to figure out what triggers the ice making process. Everything is plugged in correctly, fan is working etc. The ice maker is turned on from the panel on the front of the fridge. Is there a part that determines when it's time to fill, harvest etc? Possibly a setting in the menu that could be set wrong and prevent it from operating? Does the ice maker have to wait 24 hours before it starts producing?

My guess is to replace the ice maker assembly but figured I'd see if anyone had this issue before, or any ideas. Thanks.

 

[Jake]

Yes, sometimes it does take 24 hours for the ice maker to start making ice, if after 24 hours still nothing then the ice maker itself is the culprit.

Here's the ice maker for your model:
Ice Maker Assembly 243297613


Jake

 

[officialmark]

Question at the end.

Yes, the issue was that despite the freezer reading 0 degrees Fahrenheit on the front panel, the thermistor hadn't achieved the proper temperature to start the ice making process. For anyone reading this later I checked using code 52.

On another note the evaporator is icing up again more than what I think should be considered normal. I think the culprit is the defrost thermostat or the defrost heater. Is it safe to assume that if I get continuity on the defrost heater that it's almost assuredly the defrost thermostat? If not I'm open to any other ideas or ways to check.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Jake]

Put a freezer thermometer in the ice maker compartment and tell us what it reads after 2 hours, so we can get a real time temperature.

On another note the evaporator is icing up again more than what I think should be considered normal. I think the culprit is the defrost thermostat or the defrost heater. Is it safe to assume that if I get continuity on the defrost heater that it's almost assuredly the defrost thermostat? If not I'm open to any other ideas or ways to check.

Its either a bad defrost thermostat or bad defrost heater OR if both of those parts ohm test good, then check the drain hole underneath that evaporator coil and see if its clogged.

Disconnect power to the refrigerator before accessing/ohm testing these parts. You will need to defrost that ice/frost built-up with a hair dryer to get access to these parts.

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model you can order if yours ohm tests bad:
Defrost Thermostat 5303918568


Watch this video:

Fridge Warm? Defrost Thermostat Testing, Troubleshooting | Repair Clinic

Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm? This video provides information on how to test a defrost thermostat on a refrigerator. Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.

www.anrdoezrs.net

Leave it in the ice water for at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it.

Here's the defrost heater for your model if yours ohm tests bad:
Defrost Heater Assembly 242094802


When you click the part link to the defrost heater you will see videos on how to ohm test the defrost heater and how to access/replace it. The video will also show you how to remove that air handler.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[officialmark]

Replaced the defrost thermostat and was good for 12 hours. Seems to be frosting over again. I don't think it's the defrost heater because it has continuity and seemed to work at the beginning. At this point I'm kind of out of ideas.

 

[Jake]

The only part left in the defrost circuit is the main power board, that is the culprit.

Here's the main power board for your model:
242115233 Board-Main Power


Jake

 

[officialmark]

I changed the defrost heater and despite it having continuity the resistance was off. It seems like that did the trick as it's been going good for a couple days and there is no major frost buildup.

Just a quick question. Is there a way to change the ice level on this particular fridge? I know on some other Frigidaire models you can press water and crush together and it will let you set the ice reserve level.

 

[Jake]

I changed the defrost heater and despite it having continuity the resistance was off. It seems like that did the trick as it's been going good for a couple days and there is no major frost buildup.

What did your meter read when you ohm tested it?

Is there a way to change the ice level on this particular fridge? I know on some other Frigidaire models you can press water and crush together and it will let you set the ice reserve level.

Not that I'm aware of.

Jake