FIXED Estate gas dryer model TGDS780JQ0 won't heat

[gangofgarcias]

Model Number

TGDS780JQ0

Brand

Estate

Age

More than 10 years

Just replaced the motor a month ago because the drum wouldn't turn (thanks again, Jake). Now the flame won't ignite. I cracked it back open and looked around. There are no obstructions in the flame tube that I can see. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Toby

 

[Dan O.]

There is a viewing port on the front of the dryer (see the following link) to observe the gas burner's functioning. Please report what the ignitor and burner flame are doing when it should be heating, as well as any sounds heard and we'll try to suggest a course of action.

LINK > The Appliance Clinic: Troubleshooting and Repair: Generic Gas Dryer


Dan O.

 

[gangofgarcias]

Thanks Dan. Nothing visible thru the view port. No sparks seen or heard (not sure if it's a spark ignitor, tho, because I don't think I've ever heard a spark). No sound of gas flowing either. Is there supposed to be a pilot flame or does it use a glow ignitor?

Thanks again,
Toby

 

[Dan O.]

Is there supposed to be a pilot flame or does it use a glow ignitor?

It uses an ignitor.

NO glow means no power to the ignitor or it is physically broken. You can probably start by getting to the ignitor and checking it for continuity.

LINK > TGDS780JQ0 Ignitor (incl. repair video)


Continuity Testing



If it is Ok, you'll need to check the thermostat and thermal fuse on the blower housing.

LINK > Thermal Fuse (incl. repair video)

LINK > Cycling Thermostat (incl. repair video)

There's also a high limit cut off at the rear that may need testing as well.

LINK > Thermal Cut Off (incl. repair video)


Dan O.

 

[gangofgarcias]

Thanks Dan. I checked all four parts. The Ignitor and Thermal Fuse both failed continuity check. Does lack of continuity in the ignitor mean it's shot, or is there a particular resistance I should look for?

Thanks,
Toby

 

[Dan O.]

Does lack of continuity in the ignitor mean it's shot,

Yes.

is there a particular resistance I should look for?

It could be 50-400 ohms when good.

Thermal Fuse both failed continuity check

If the thermal fuse is open, overheating is a very common cause. I *strongly* suggest you check and clean the dryer venting all the way from the dryer to the outdoors.


Dan O.

 

[gangofgarcias]

This is resolved after replacing the Thermal Fuse and Ignitor. Pretty sure the old Ignitor was still functional (the new one failed continuity check as well, resistance stabilized around 80 ohms) but I replaced it anyway since I had the new part. Also replaced the light bulb - didn't even realize there was a bulb behind that plastic lump until I had everything stripped down.

I took your advice to clean out the lint trap / vent also. So much debris in there. While I was at it, I replaced the flexible foil hose with a rigid aluminum one for extra protection against the possibility of something falling on it and making a hole that could vent CO into the basement.

Hopefully this will all last a good long while. Thanks again, Dan!

 

[Dan O.]

didn't even realize there was a bulb behind that plastic lump until I had everything stripped down.

I took your advice to clean out the lint trap / vent also. So much debris in there. While I was at it, I replaced the flexible foil hose with a rigid aluminum

A very good idea.

I'd suggest you put inspecting/cleaning the venting on your annual ToDo list. Any buildup can indicate some restriction in the venting. Keep it clear for safety.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ : Dryer Venting Information

This is resolved

Glad to hear it. Thanks fort the followup.


Dan O.