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F1, then F3..now broiler won't shut off

cpizzull

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Feb 11, 2007
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9
Location
Wildwood, MO
Our 15 year old double oven, RB770PXYB, got an F1 and then F3 the other day. We had noticed that the broiler had come on while we were doing normal baking. We have to shut the breaker off to eventually shut it down. When we start up again, and try to bake, the broiler comes on and will basically stay on, even though we don't see the F1 or F3 error anymore.

Is this going to be the whole touch pad replacement thing? I can't even find this model number on whirlpool's site anymore. If I call a service man to fix this, I'm guessing $200-$300? or more?

We want to remodel the kitchen in the next 2-3 years, so I"m wondering if I should just bite it now and fork out the $1500. If the repair will be under $300, I'd rather do that for now.

Any ideas on how to proceed with this? I'm all for replacing the part myself if I could find some instruction somewhere. ;)

Thx for reading!
Chet
 

Jake

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I would first check to make sure your broil element was not grounding out causing this to always come on when power to your double oven is on.

You would need to turn off your house breaker to your oven and check for continuity with an ohm meter between each of your 2 broil element terminals and ground.

Jake
 

cpizzull

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Feb 11, 2007
Messages
9
Location
Wildwood, MO
Hi Jake! Thanks for replying so quickly.

While I try to get my hands on an ohm meter from a neighbor, thought I'd give you some up-to-date info, in case it changes the task at hand.

Today, when I turned the oven on (so we could bake something real quick), the broiler did come on again. However, after 10 minutes or so(perhaps when wife had hit the 'off' button), the broiler had shut off and there was an F1 error displayed. This is alittle different than yesterday, when broiler wouldn't shut off and no error displayed.

Should I still proceed with the broiler element check, or does this sound like the board is indeed bad?

Thx again!
Chet
 

cpizzull

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Feb 11, 2007
Messages
9
Location
Wildwood, MO
You would need to turn off your house breaker to your oven and check for continuity with an ohm meter between each of your 2 broil element terminals and ground.

Jake


Btw, is there a diagram on how to check this once I get the ohm meter? Do I need to expose the back of the circuit board for this or take anything apart? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I couldn't find any diagrams on the site(s).
 

Jake

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Ok, If you had an F1 show up in the display, its says you will need a new control board, you can order it from that part link above you posted, but if your range is 15 years old, other parts are wearing out as well, just weigh the pro's and con's about putting $200 plus into a 15 year old range.

Here is a help link about ohming your elements, you may have to pull the oven out away from the wall to get access from the very back:
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html#element

Jake
 

cpizzull

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Messages
9
Location
Wildwood, MO
Jake...repair manual for RB770PXYB ?

Hi Jake!

I received my control board, and was wondering if you had the service repair model for this, in case I run into difficulty.

Thanks,
Chet
 

Jake

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Service repair model or manual?

Jake
 

Jake

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I can't seem to locate it for this model, sorry about that.

Jake
 

cpizzull

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Location
Wildwood, MO
Mission Accomplished!

Thought I'd post an update, along with some follow-up questions.

Well, installed the new board and everything seems to be working perfectly. I first want to say thanks to Jake for your time in helping everyone out here. It's really appreciated! A few questions:

1. Figure 1 shows the 'bad' board. What happened there? I guess the only way to fix that was to replace the whole board?

2. Figure 2 shows my only concern on the job. For the life of me, I couldn't push the harness all the way down. Is this going to be a problem? I even cut my finger trying to push. :D When I was pushing as hard as I could, it didn't budge and the board itself started to buckle so I let off. Comments?

3. With my board came these instructions about sending the board back to get a 'core deposit refund'. This is ONLY for service folks, right?

Thanks again!
Chet
 

Jake

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Good photos, Yes Photo 1 is something that I rarely see happen, but can happen, yes the whole board has to be replaced.

Photo 2 is fine, you got it.:)

Yes, you don't have to send the core back, only appliance companies do if its changed under warranty to get credit for it.

Jake
 

cpizzull

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Location
Wildwood, MO
Now what?

Well, my replacement part (as described in earlier posts on this thread) is just over a year old and guess what just happened? While pushing the Temp Up button, like one normally would, something appeared to short and I saw sparks from behind the face panel, right in same area. The oven continued to work normally.

Based on the location of the last problem, this almost seems like it could be the same thing. I have not taken a look behind there yet because its such a pain in the ass to pull it out. I was just wondering if my description of hitting the Temp Up button would match the burnt thing in the previous pic, or perhaps your experience, and if I should keep running the oven as is?

Thx!
Chet

PS. Could the sparks have come due to the 1/8" gap shown in the 2nd pic above?

Edit: Just thought of something....is it possible I just pushed the Temp Up button too hard and something touched behind the panel causing the spark? If so, that's no biggie, right? No breaker or anything got tripped, just to be clear.
 
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Jake

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Hi Chet,

Yes, I think thats what happened, you may have pushed the Temp Up button to hard causing the spark. Keep using it and let us know what happens.

Jake
 

Jake

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Thats a big NO.:)

Jake
 
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