FIXED FAFW3001LW0 Not a bad door switch after all

cmac2012

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
6
Location
CA
Model Number
FAFW3001LW0
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
6-10 years
The symptoms matched what I gathered usually indicated a bad door switch: slow turning back and forth but no spin. I took out the switch, it has the red was motor (wax motor?). Checked out at 1700 resistance approx. I had discovered the error code process during my searching, put the switch back in and found an E21 code - 'slow to drain.' I hadn't watched an entire cycle patiently, I hadn't seen whether or not water remained when it tried to spin. Never saw any 'trying to spin' for that matter.

I'll check for blockage or bad pump later (the machine is at a client's house, I do remodeling and estate management for him). Another concern is the worn and loose looking door seal. There's a small trail of leakage visible from the bottom of the door. Plus I had real trouble trying to get the spring-cable back on. Part of the seal seems unwilling to pop into place under the steel lip thingy. The other 2/3rds or so grips it nicely.

It almost looks like it bunches up a bit near the latch, I'm wondering if the latch was not adequately shut to give the 'I'm shut' signal. Didn't fly open but I noticed it was a hard close.

I thought I needed external circlip type pliers to reattach the spring-cable clamp but I saw a vid showing internal circlip pliers unhooking the spring from the cable and that looks like it might be better.

The boot seal-bellows costs $150 plus? I can see it's not a trivial part but I was hoping for less than that.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,637
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Yes, you will need a new door boot.

Here's the door boot(bellows) for your model you can order here:
134515300 Door Boot Seal


When you click the part link to the door boot you will see a HOW TO video.:)

Its not the easiest job to change out, but if you follow the video and you've fixed other things around your house, and are mechanically inclined, then you should be able to do it.:)

Jake
 

cmac2012

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
6
Location
CA
Thanks for the help. Good to have that vid, I didn't realize that much stuff needed removing. Doesn't look too tough though.
 

Jake

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Glad to help, let us know how it goes.:)

Jake
 

cmac2012

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
6
Location
CA
I thought it best to deal with the E21 first, poor draining could lead to no spin - indeed there was much junk in the coin catcher - what looked like maybe the shoulder pad of a woman's jacket or something had worked it's way in. Definitely needed attention. I thought that might be the problem but it wasn't. Tried a medium cycle, it drains better but no spin.

I pulled another error code, got E41, failure to recognize closed door. I found a report of one guy who said he'd gotten that, bought a new switch, but the problem remained. Since I checked the resistance a couple of days ago, two multimeters, first one was acting funny, both close to 1700, I would feel pretty dumb if I bought a switch and that wasn't the problem. Another guy answered the above fellow with (approx):

Measure the voltage between the black wire in the J2 connector on the console control board and ground. If you read 120 VAC replace the board.
But, the board put out one correct code, and it is indeed behaving like the switch is bad. I read of bad boards putting out jibberish codes and this is not jibberish. I'm wondering if something other than a bad wax motor (WTH is a wax motor) would cause the non-recognition of closed door.

A new switch is the fix I want, oh man, much cheaper. I'm on thin ice here. If parts and labor get too high my client is going to complain about me not buying a new one right off the bat. He's in China, he okayed some attempt at repair before he left. Within limits. Knowing what those limits are can be difficult.
 

cmac2012

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Jan 28, 2019
Messages
6
Location
CA
I had an idea - If I could hot wire the two wires that send the 'door closed' signal to the control board I could probably determine whether or not the switch is bad in spite of having the proper resistance at the wax motor. At first I thought to jump those two, but as those leads are for sending current to the wax to move the plunger, unlikely to work. Does anyone know what leads need to be jumped? I could fish the jump wires underneath and join them after closing the door and try a cycle. This would, presumably, reveal whether the problem is a bad switch or a bad control board.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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No, don't hot wire the door switch.:)

How fast does the water drain out? Pull the drain hose up while its draining and see how fast the water is flowing out of the drain hose, you should have good strong pressure out.

E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open. Refer to test (6).

TEST 6:
1. Is the loading door closed?
No. Close the door.
Yes. Go the step (2).

2. In the J2 plug on the console control, measure voltage from the black wire to ground with power on.
0 volts. Check the door strike. If good, replace the door switch assembly.
120 volts. Replace the console control board

What was the voltage reading?

Here's the door switch for your model:
131763256 Door Lock/switch Assy


Video Included in part link.

Here's the console control board for your model:
137006005 Control Board,printed Ci


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

cmac2012

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Messages
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Location
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Thanks. I wasn't going to hotwire it unless I knew for certain. Too cowboy, too risky.

Thanks for the path forward. I read something similar to that but yours has more detail.

I found a pic of the control board with the plugs labeled.

On pump flow rate, I did pull it out, was better than before but I'm concernced that it's not filling up more. I'm not that familiar with this sort of washer as a user I hate to tell you. My client still had a small batch of clothes he put in to show me the problem. Perhaps the low fill amount was because of a small load?
 
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Jake

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No, they all fill with low water.

Get a multimeter and do the voltage test and post back what you find.

Jake
 

cmac2012

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
CA
Not sure what happened. I did the voltage test. Got zero volts, door strike looks good. I double checked my ground before and after by putting the other probe in the hot lead of the outlet, got 120 both times.

I gather that selling parts is part of what supports this forum and I regret that I had to buy locally as the owner was back in town and stressing about keeping his tenants happy. It's a large house - he rents out three rooms to housemates and lives there as well. He wanted it fixed that day or was going to buy a new one.

I put the latch in, we fired up a medium load test, I was stressing as I would have thought there would be a spin between the wash and rinse cycle. I thought it was over, no victory today but dang, 2 minutes left on the display and it broke out a real spin. My client was watching, it's nice to win. Also got excellent discharge flow at the end.

The part I don't get, I again checked the voltage between J2 black to ground and got zero again. For all I know, that test primarily determines if the board is bad or not. IOW if you're getting an E41, zero volts means it's not the board, so it must be the latch.

Also, it still puts out an E41. I've read accounts of people having difficulty trying to clear that code.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Excellent, glad to hear the new door latch lock switch assembly fixed it.:)

Thanks for the update!

Also, it still puts out an E41. I've read accounts of people having difficulty trying to clear that code.
To clear latest stored error code:
• Turn the Program Knob to the start position of the cycle furthest to the left.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially chasing, then release buttons.
• Turn the program knob clockwise 7 clicks from the Start Position. The control will signal the last error code.
• Press and hold the Options and Start/Pause buttons for 3 seconds. The code will be cleared.
• Exit Diagnostic Mode to return the washer to normal operation.
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after the Start Position. Press Options and Start/Pause buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle LEDs appear.

Let us know if that clears the error code 41.

Jake
 
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