FIXED FAFW3577KW Buzzing and won't start

fixya

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Messages
18
Location
California
Model Number
FAFW3577KW
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
More than 10 years
Medium-loud buzzing sound coming from lower left front of the washer (it's hard to localize but that is my best guess). If I try to start a cycle, it's quiet for several seconds then the buzzing starts. The drum turns very slowly then stops completely. I do not hear the sound of filling water as I normally would after starting cycle. The buzzing sounds like the typical 60Hz electrical buzz like a stuck motor or pump or something.

PS: I found it very hard to look for other similar posts on this forum. It appears you can only search one level deep - in other words I could search for buzzing in all washers of all brands but not limit the results to Frigidaire washers, so I got too many irrelevant results to be useful. Is there a better way to search? I hate asking the same question that someone already has.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,203
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

What was the final outcome here: Frigidaire FAFW3577KW spins slowly, already replaced door lock

It may be related to your current problem.

You will need to pinpoint exactly where that buzzing sound is coming from.

Do you see the TWO SEARCH BOXES at the TOP RIGHT on the forum? Those work great for me!

Jake
 

fixya

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Messages
18
Location
California
Hi Jake,
View attachment FAFW3577KW.pdf
I read the error code, got E41. Cleared it and it did not come back right away.
I did the full diagnostic test. All went well except the buzzing started on step 7 and the water did not drain out of the washer.
Is my first action now to check the drain pump for foreign object blockage?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,203
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, Yes remove the drain pump and check for foreign objects in it if the water is not draining, that's likely where the buzz is coming from. There is a video that shows you how to remove and replace it when you click the part link to it below.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump 137221600


Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
102,203
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
E41 - Control board thinks the door switch is open. - Refer to test (6)

TEST 6
1. Is the loading door closed?
No. Close the door.
Yes. Go the step (2).

2. In the J2 plug on the console control, measure voltage from the black wire to ground with power on.
0 volts. Check the door strike. If good, replace the door switch assembly.
120 volts. Replace the console control board.

Here's the door switch lock assembly for your model(Video Included in part link):
131763256 Door Lock/switch Assy


Here's the door strike you can look at and see if yours looks worn or broken compared to the new one here:
131763302 Striker


Jake
 

fixya

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Messages
18
Location
California
OK I accessed the drain pump and there was a hairclip stuck in the drain pump inlet. I was able to remove it without removing the pump. I spun the impeller with my fingers. I was smooth and quiet although it did not spin freely. It seemed to have distinct quarter turns or so. It wanted to stop in only about 4 distinct places per revolution. Since it was smooth I assumed this is normal and reassembled.

I've done 3 loads now as a test and it seems to be working fine. No more buzzing. Quite a bit of water came out under the washer after the first load. I thought I had a leak (but I was sure I double-checked the clamps). I did 2 more loads & the water coming out is much less so maybe it is just water sitting in the frame of the washer and it blows out during the spin cycle. Eventually there will be none? On the last load it was only a small dribble. I'm just going to keep an eye on it.

WARNING: If anyone is reading this and attempting later, note that I ran the full set of diagnostic tests before I took off the rubber boot. A LOT of water came out because the diagnotic tests fill the drum a bit. Recommend you get as much water out of the drum as you can before you start (e.g. using a cup etc) and have a shallow vessel ready under the washer when you take the first clamp off. I watched a couple of videos and they just put down a towel and that was enough, NOT if you have more water after the diagnostic tests or other reason.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,203
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, sounds like your back in business.:)

Yes, if all the water is out of the washer baseplate assembly then it should not leak on your floor anymore.

Now what about error code E41? What did you do to fix error code E41?

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

fixya

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Messages
18
Location
California
I cleared the code at some point during the repair. Just checked it again now. Still showing E00. I didn't do the measurement from black to GND on J2. I forgot while the washer was open.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
102,203
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, no worries then, unless it stops working and the E41 shows up again.:)

Jake
 
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