FIXED FAQG7001LW1 Cant get into diagnostic mode to check error code?

stackz

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Aug 22, 2017
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24
Location
james island, sc
Model Number
FAQG7001LW1
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
1-5 years
I've got a frigidaire affinity GAS dryer with build date 4/14 on it. bought it new from lowes a couple years ago and kept it as a spare, never used. moved to a new house that had a gas hookup and the dryer went bad and installed this back in mid 2016. recently we have been putting the washer and dryer through their paces as we recently had a baby and our laundry went up quite a bit haha.

anyway, just yesterday my wife was complaining about the dryer and when I got home from work today I looked into it. you can put it on any of the cycles and after about 10 minutes or so it stops and stays in whatever cycle and time left but the far right 3 lights flash constantly. Also, the clothes are not hot. I cleaned out the lint trap and pulled the dryer forward and checked the exhaust system and its not clogged.

went online with the model number and looked up the owners manual thinking the error codes might be listed in there, no luck. then i started searching. found several different versions of how to get into the diagnostics modes and none of them work, even a couple on here. several on youtube as well, nothing. no error code at all.

though, i think with as much laundry as we were doing back/back that maybe it overloaded the thermal circuit breaker on the heating element. I cant imagine the element itself is bad as its a gas element and only has about a year of use on it which is why I'm thinking the breaker.

I've got a multimeter but I would really really like to pull a code before I tear the unit apart for no reason. if there is some different, newer way to get into diagnostics that anyone knows, that would help!

again
model #FAQG7001LW1
serial # 4D131658"X" (put an x for the last digit just out of posterity sake)

I will say that we are leaving town until next monday tomorrow as its time to introduce the baby to her great grandmothers in another state so I'm posting now hoping I can at least get a code to research while I'm away and hopefully have a part waiting on my door when I get back, but it is what it is.
 

rickgburton

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1. Turn the knob to the third position from the left.

2. Press and hold SELECT and CANCEL simultaneously for six seconds. The buzzer will sound one time then release the two keys.

3. Immediately press and hold the same two keys SELECT and CANCEL for six seconds. The control will enter Field Test Mode, the buzzer will sound three times, and the digit display will alternate between "Fld" and the firmware revision number (ex. "r03").

4. Rotate the cycle selector knob two turns clockwise. The error code will appear in the digit display.
 

stackz

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james island, sc
ok that did it and that was a completely different procedure from every other one I found online, thanks! worked first try.

it is throwing the E4A code which is about what I was thinking. I dont have time to tear apart the unit until after I get back in town so I guess it will just have to wait as I dont want to buy parts I dont need.

one last question, once the dryer is back up and running, I assume that after a full good run cycle the code will delete so it wont be stored in the system in the future if something else goes wrong? as in it wont still be in the system and be a "ghost code" sending me in a wrong direction? or is there a code erase procedure as well?
 

rickgburton

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OR....


FUNCTION TEST SEQUENCE
1. Turn knob to sixth position from the left.

2. Press and hold SELECT and CANCEL simultaneously for six seconds. The buzzer will sound one time.

3. Immediately press and hold OPTIONS and CANCEL simultaneously for two seconds. The control will enter test mode, the buzzer will sound three times and all LEDs will rapidly flash. After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests. Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:

0 turns: All LEDs will flash.

1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. “H” and the control thermistor reading will toggle back and forth in the display.

2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and “AF” (Air Fluff) is displayed.

3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LEDs are lit and numbers appear in the display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers decrease. In controls that do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the Damp LED come on.

4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Key test:
a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LEDs should light.
b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LEDs should light.
c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LEDs should light.
d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LEDs should light.
e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED’s should light.

5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.

6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.

7-11 turns: All LEDs will flash

To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation.
 

rickgburton

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We posted at the same time....lol

E4A- The drying time has exceeded the program time for that cycle.

Press Pause/Cancel and SELECT buttons for 6 seconds to exit test modes. Position cycle selector to NORMAL, temperature selector to HIGH HEAT and touch START. Check for anything that would extend dry times such as: no heat, restricted vent, blower fan blade broken or loose, dryer installed in closet with solid door, or bad connection in moisture sensor bar circuit or dirty bars. If dryer operates normally but code returns, replace the electronic control.
 

stackz

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james island, sc
done. definitely no heat. usually in the first 10 seconds or so you can hear the gas heat element turn on. let it go for a couple minutes and nothing, no heat. gas is definitely hooked up as well.
 

stackz

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no, it never even starts to heat. its bone cold in the dryer even after 1 minute much less 10 minutes.

this was after trying it several several times in several different cycle types...normal, bulky, heavy, 30 minute timed, 60 minute timed, etc. always the same result, bone cold.
 

rickgburton

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OK, most likely the thermal fuse is open. Check it for continuity with your meter or take the two wires off and short them together temporarily to see if the igniter turns on.
Thermal Fuse 134711401
Thermal-Fuse-134711401-01086324.jpg
 

stackz

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will do. also, what in the world are you doing up this early? its 7:55am here on the east coast and you are in utah...my head would be in my pillow still :p
 

rickgburton

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LOL.... I've been asking myself the same question since about 4:30 this morning. I've got my hours screwed up from working on my truck last week. My A/C compressor went out and I needed to replace the spark plugs and shocks and change the oil. I don't have a garage or a big shady tree to hide from the sun. Temperatures been hovering around 100*F here forever so I've been working on it from 12:00 Midnight TO 5:00 AM, hit the sack till about noon then do service calls. Now I'm stuck in that pattern.
 

stackz

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I'm looking at the diagrams for my dryer here as I couldnt find them on repairclinic.com:

Frigidaire Dryer FAQG7001LW0 Repair Parts

I dont see one "overall" exploded assembly, just sub assemblies. I see the thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust tube in diagram #5. can I get to this by simply pulling the rear panel off the unit or do I have to tear the unit completely apart? I'm wondering if I can get to the rest of the exhaust system and clean out any left over lint while I'm in there or if I have to tear the entire thing apart or not?

I did take the lint trap apart a couple months ago and cleaned it out from the front load door there as I noticed it was getting kinda of clogged up. I'm wondering if some dislodged and get stuck in the system causing this issue.

I did take the exhaust vent flex tube off last night and put my hand all the way through to the outside of the house to check if thats clogged ( only about 1.5' long when compressed to outside of house vent flap) and its good so the only place left for a lint clog is in the unit itself.
 
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Jake

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Hi ALL,

I updated your link for the complete part diagrams through our other provider AppliancePartsPros, you can see clearly now.:)

Jake
 

rickgburton

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You'll need to go in from the front but it's not too bad. Just remove the top and console and the front panel will come off.
 

stackz

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just got back in town earlier today and the part came about an hour ago.

I actually went in through the back panel. took out all the #3 screws holding it in and popped it off. the exhaust tube was right there held in place with a single screw. pulled those and popped off the wires from the fuse and pulled the tube out. it ohm'd out perfectly just like the one I ordered. Still going to replace it though. are there two of these things on this unit?
 

stackz

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after looking over the diagrams some more. it looks like there are two of these fuses on this unit? I think I went after the one on the exhaust tube versus the one on the burner itself.

please tell me this is what I did?
 

stackz

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yup! there's two. I see the one on the burner but man its in a BAD location and its pop riveted to a bracket to the burner. I got one of the wires off of it and ohm'd it and its definitely dead. now to just figure out how to get it off and swapped out without creating cuss words. its all the way at the back as well, I dont see how taking the front of the unit off would help?
 

stackz

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ok, so apparently the thing I pulled off the burner is the thermal limiter? does this part see continuity the same as the thermal fuse? if so then it is definitely blown. I was going to take the thermal fuse I bought and ......

edit: in the middle of typing this I decided to just connect the wires to the thermal limiter together and run the unit, yup, thats it.

ordering now.

I wonder though if I can use them interchangeably?? probably not.
 

rickgburton

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The one on the front of the blower is the thermistor. It should read 50K ohms at room temperature.
 

Jake

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