FFGF3019LBC Frigidaire oven intermittent

[beezerboy]

Model Number

FFGF3019LBC

Brand

Frigidaire

Age

1-5 years

Its a Frigidaire about 5 years old.

My oven has recently developed a couple glitches. It is becoming reluctant to light. I push "bake" & set the temp.... it does the pre-heat/test fire and then shuts off. I can see the pre heat come on normal but the main doesn't light. If I do it a couple times, it eventually lights.

Sometimes its baking, and shuts off. What I think is happening is it comes to temp and shuts off, but it doesn't relight when the temp drops. I just tried it a few minutes ago and it worked perfect.

 

[Dan O.]

it does the pre-heat/test fire and then shuts off. I can see the pre heat come on normal but the main doesn't light.

By "the main" do you mean the oven ignitor? which glows but the burner doesn't ignite into flame?

What I think is happening is it comes to temp and shuts off, but it doesn't relight when the temp drops.

If the ignitor IS glowing but the oven burner does NOT ignite into flame every time, that is often caused by a 'weak' oven ignitor. And yes, an ignitor can glow and still be defective. It's resistance changes as it gets hot and affects opening of the oven gas valve. As it ages that resistance no longer reaches the needed value consistently. It is a common failure symptom. The only way to actually confirm that is by measuring the amperage draw of the ignitor as explained in the image below and at following link.



These links are pertinent to this topic. They were supplied by this message author to provide additional references on this subject.

You can read about how common gas oven ignition systems work and the observations and tests necessary to start diagnosing problems with them at the following link:

LINK > Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems


This is the ignitor called for on that model.

LINK > Frigidaire FFGF3019LBC Oven Ignitor

The following Frigidaire general replacement service ignitor should work in place of the original as well. It might require some slight wire splicing instead of a direct plugin connector.

LINK > Frigidaire General Replacement 'short' Oven Ignitor


Dan O.

 

[jeff1]

Hi,

Check current draw of the igniter. Anything below 3-3.5 amps and the igniter is weak. Yes it can be intermittent.

LINK> Oven Burner Ignitor

Testing helps...
https://www.applianceaid.com/gas-range-repair-help.php#glow

jeff sr.

 

[beezerboy]

yeah... makes sense. I've worked on boiler & furnace systems so my terminology isn't quite right. the ignitor glows but main burner doesn't light

it'll be a few days before I can test it

thanks all

 

[Dan O.]

it'll be a few days before I can test it

Let us know how you make out when you get chance to test it.

Dan O.

 

[jeff1]

Please do let us know how you make out with it.

jeff sr.

 

[beezerboy]

haven't tested the ignitor yet due to dealing with mega plumbing problems, but uh - oh.... the clock suddenly lost 5 hours and not will respond to the keypad. the stove and broiler no longer light. is it doomed?

 

[Dan O.]

I have no idea what's going on with the timer. You can try cycling the power to the range to see if it resets.

the stove and broiler no longer light.

What do you mean by "the stove"? The surface burners? The bake?? "Stove" to me means the whole appliance.

haven't tested the ignitor yet ... the stove and broiler no longer light. is it doomed?

If you're not going to do any testing, yes.

Dan O.

 

[jeff1]

is it doomed?

Getting worse and worse

jeff sr.

 

[beezerboy]

top burners work fine. just tried the clock again and it reset. oven will not light.

I'll test it when I get the time. I'm in the middle of removing all the copper pipe from the house and replacing it with pex (A) due to pinhole leaks that made a ceiling fall in (along with 30 gallons of water). my electricity is better than most. its one of the things I taught in an aviation trade school (20+ years)

 

[jeff1]

I'm in the middle of removing all the copper pipe from the house and replacing it with pex (A) due to pinhole leaks that made a ceiling fall in (along with 30 gallons of water).

Oh joy

When you get a chance, let us know what is happening.

jeff sr.

 

[beezerboy]

OK... oven no longer lights. current through the gas valve connection from the ignitor is zero. gas valve checks out at 1.5 ohms. zero VAC at the connector when the controls are set to 350

btw,,, the picture in post 2 of testing the ignitor with a clamp on probe is wrong. you only clamp one leg, not both. whatever current the safety valve is using will not be read...

 

[jeff1]

The picture shows the clamp on meter over one wire and not two.

If you are not getting voltage to the igniter:
-bad clock/control
-bad wire
-open gas safety valve

If needed:

Oven control board.
Oven control board overlay.

When set for bake, power coming into the clock/control but not out indicates a bad clock/control.

jeff sr.

 

[beezerboy]

ooop, sorry... you are right, it does show only one leg in the probe. bad eyes

the gas valve checks at 1.5 ohms, so I'm gonna go with the control board since there were a couple odd things like the clock changing time by itself

 

[jeff1]

Worth a shot for sure.
Keep us posted.

jeff sr.