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FFHS2611PFCA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Water Dispenser Fails Intermittently

Sleach

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Boston
Model Number
FFHS2611PFCA
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
1-5 years
Hi,

I have a FFHS2611PFCA, about 3 years old now, water dispenser worked before bed, the following day the water dispenser did not work. Ice maker has worked throughout the duration of this issue. I tested the impedance of the 3 solenoid valves. I was able to measure some 'acceptable' level of impedance: two were close to 400 ohms, while the other was closer to 200 ohms... (forgive me for not recording which one was which, I can go back and do that if needed) which struck me as odd but am not familiar enough to know if all three valves are supposed to be the exact same.

The replacement 3-valve assembly is on the way, but rather than swap out a part that doesn't need it, I'd rather be certain that part is the issue and it's not something else that I am going to have to replace the following week.

All of your input is truly appreciated.

-Thanks

Corrected model number
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,800
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

FFHS2611PCCA does not pull up as good, please recheck it. The closest I come is FFHS2611PFCA.

Take a photo of your model number tag and upload it here, I know sometimes they are difficult to read.

Jake
 

Sleach

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Boston
I apologize, one too many 'c's in that model number. It's FFHS2611PFCA

20191110_073112.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,800
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks! You have 3 parts it could be that is causing this no water issue from the water dispenser, one is a bad water inlet valve that you already ordered, that water inlet valve can ohm test good but the solenoid that lets the water come to the water dispenser can be physically stuck closed.

The 2 other parts are the water dispenser lever can be broken, thus not activating the water dispenser switch, or the water dispenser switch could be bad internally.

What I do is, Unplug the refrigerator and ohm test the microswitch for the water dispenser with a multimeter. When you push the button in on the microswitch you should get continuity, which would be 0 ohms on the multimeter.

Here's the microswitch(water dispenser) for your model(video Included in part link):
241689106 Dispenser Switch


If your water dispenser switch ohm tests good, then its possibly your water dispenser lever actuator has broken, seen that happen quite a bit on this model.

Here's the water actuator lever for your model:
241682003 Water Actuator


There is a video in the part link tells how to remove the dispenser frame to access it.

If the microswitch ohms good, and the water dispenser lever is not physically broken, then your water inlet valve is the culprit.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
242252702 Water Valve


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Sleach

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Boston
OK, thanks for the help. I started at the dispenser itself and worked my way back, so the actuator lever/paddle and, when depressed, causes the microswitch to activate (can hear the audible click of the microswitch), I then unplugged the connectors from the microswitch and tested for continuity and when pressed, the microswitch definitely had continuity (at/near zero impedance). It was an open circuit when not being pressed. So I believe both the lever/paddle and microswitch are both fine (unless the microswitch is failing intermittently).

Let me ask you this: is each solenoid valve supposed to be the same exact model? If so, I would expect all three valves would have at or around the exact same impedance measurements. Instead I got two around 400 ohms and one around 200 ohms... is that normal?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,800
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
is each solenoid valve supposed to be the same exact model?

As techs we don't generally ohm the solenoids, because they can physically fail, not electrically fail.

What we do is volt test at the water dispenser solenoid electrical connector, put your meter on the Volts AC setting and remove the electrical connector from the water dispenser solenoid and have someone press the water dispenser lever and watch the meter for 120 volts. If you get 120 volts, then that means that water dispenser solenoid is physically stuck closed and can't open to let water come through.:)

Jake
 

Sleach

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Boston
OK Jake, the new part arrived today and since the original valve has decided to keep working, I'll just squirrel the replacement away if/when the original decides to fail again. But before I do that, I took some measurements on the new valve's coils. Attached are the pics with results. One of the valves is rated for 35 watts, the other two are only 15 watts, so that explains why I was seeing two valves around 400 ohms with the other around 200. I'll take the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' approach on this one but for now I suspect maybe one of the valves got stuck closed. Thanks again for all your help. I'll be sure to update this thread if there are any further developments. *It should be noted that all of the pictures are of the new valve.*
 

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Jake

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Wait what?

I'm confused, so all of a sudden your old water started working again and now you have water at the water dispenser?

Jake
 

Sleach

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Boston
Well yeah, that's why I said it fails intermittently in the title of the post. One night it worked, then the next morning it didn't (and did not for a few days thereafter). Then maybe a few days later it started working again.

When the valve wasnt working I ordered the replacement because I had also tested the paddle and micro switch and they both appeared to be in working order. But when it started working again, because I had also tested the coils for continuity, and they actually HAD it, I was concerned I may be wrong and this could be something else - like the board.

When it wasnt working I recall I could hear both the click of the micro switch along with a faint hum too - which, now that I think of it, was probably the sound of power being applied to the coil, but if the valve was stuck that's why there was no clickity clack followed by that sweet, sweet flow of water.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
125,800
Location
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LOL, you are correct, my bad, I missed intermittently.

Then yes, I'd replace the water inlet valve with your new one, then it will start to work ALL the time.:)

Jake
 
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