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FGHS2644KF1 Cooling problem Frigidaire Gallery

Corkhill1

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Orlando Florida
Model Number
FGHS2644KF1
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
1-5 years
Dear Jake, remember me with the special defrost coil repair on this unit? Now we have a 1 and 1/2 year old side by side Frigidaire Gallery refig, model FGHS2644KF1, no more warranty. We always have the control panel set to 0 deg. F freezer and 34 deg. F. refrig.

Last week the freezer stays on 0 but the refrig will not go below 56 deg F. We took most things out of the freezer and refrigerator. We tried to reset the factory setting which is 0 and 37, but it would not factory reset. We took off the inside freezer panel and did not see any ice buildup or obstruction and the freezer fan was working at that time. Yesterday, we tried many settings to no avail.

Then yesterday even the freezer would not hold and would not go below 40 F and the refrig at 64 with no fan action inside the freezer to the refrig. We left it on overnight, same results. Then at breakfast the next morning for some reason the power went off for a second and it must have triggered something as the freezer starting working and the fan in the freezer worked and we could feel cold air coming into the top left of the refrig. and the freezer got to 0 but the refrig will not go below 56, same problem as before.

At that point we felt no air movement into the refrig., so the fan does not turn on when it gets the refrigerator to 56 F. .

1) Please tell me again how to factory reset this unit as it does not have a simple button for this. What we did a year ago to reset was we push the power button down for 5 seconds and unplug from socket waiting 5 minutes to plug back in and push power button and it reset to 0 and 37 like it is supposed to. This does not work anymore

2) Does the refrig have a thermostat for the fan and can that be replaced?

3) Does the system have a defrost switch that turns off the fan and it is not working and can that be replaced? 4)Please help other options? Please note we will have to do the repairs ourselves and order the parts so all the help we can get is appreciated.

Thank you LINDA
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
44,319
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Check this thermistor with an ohm meter. I think it's the same as GE uses so it should read about 16.3K Ohms at 32*F. Fill a small glass with crushed ice, put the thermistor in the ice and add just enough water to cover it. That's close to 32*F.
Thermistor 240597203
Thermistor-240597203-01041565.jpg
 

Corkhill1

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Orlando Florida
Dear Rick, , Right after I sent this today, the freezer went to minus -14 and the refrig to 68 with no fan action to the refrig from the freezer.

This acts just like there is blockage between the freezer and the refrig, like we had before. But before we did have blockage due to ice build up, but no ice build up this time.

Although I did not take the back of the freezer off to check YET. Next we are going to turn off the entire system, unplug and let it rest in open air for 4 hours and restart from scratch and see what happens.

Well,While waiting the 4 hrs, I decided to take off the back of the inside freezer and see what was going on in there.

Well, we DO have ice build up on the evaporator coils, which would restrict the airflow to the fan and cause the fan airflow to not allow the trap door at the top vent to the refrig to open, stopping all air to the refrig from the freezer.Not sure if the fan was continuously running or not during the blockage of ice.But, the fan does work now and the trap door works when the fan is working properly.

So,why does the evaporator coil freeze up? Did it happen before the fan/air stopped coming into the refrig causing the ice build up or did it happen after the fan/air stopped and the trap door closed causing the ice buildup?

I am hoping you and I might be able to communicate by email and come up with some kind of temp fix until we can find the problem and get the parts/ do the fix.

Just more information, I am going to get a Ohms meter tomorrow.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
44,319
Location
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Linda, you have a defrost problem if the coils are packed with ice and frost and 4 hours is not enough time. Unless you use a hair dryer to defrost the coils it will need about 12 hours with the freezer door open. The first thing you want to check is the defrost thermostat (#21) and the defrost heater (#14) with an ohm meter. You want to check the defrost thermostat while it's frosty. It should read closed below 40*F.

Here's the parts diagram: Parts for Frigidaire FGHS2644KF1: System Parts
 

Corkhill1

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Orlando Florida
the coils dried in 4 hrs. no problem here, and we restarted it and it is working
So, I will give you a report tomorrow as to what happenned tonight.
I am getting really worried about this thing not working or being able to be fixed.
I wonder if we could disconnect the defrost thermo, unsnap it from the coil and just let it ice up every week and turn it off to defrost each week manually?
Would the rest of the system work OK?. Love, Linda
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Linda, don't you think it would be better to fix it? It's either the heater, defrost thermostat or control board. I'll be able to tell you which one if you follow my instructions.
 

Corkhill1

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Orlando Florida
It was running all nite,sometime in the nite the refrigerator went back to completely normal, no ice buildup in coils and air flow to refrigerator at top left vent flowing normal,temperature reading in freezer 0 F and in refrig. 33 F, which is the proper settings.

I will use it today very limitedly and see what happens. Now that you have all this information, What do you think is the real problem?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
44,319
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Let me try to explain exactly whats happening. All the cooling in the refrigerator takes place from the evaporator in the freezer section. The control uses the thermistor to regulate the air flow using the damper. The evaporator fan motor pulls the air from the lower fresh food section and lower freezer section, across the evaporator coils and then into the top of the fresh food section and the top of the freezer section. As long as that air flow is maintained the temperatures are normal. In order to keep air flowing across the coils continuously, the machine uses a defrost system. Whenever the frost starts to build on the coils and starts to block air flow, the control board turns the defrost heater on for several minutes. The defrost thermostat keeps the heater from turning on if it's above 50*F in the freezer section. When one of the components of the defrost system goes out or fails, the evaporator coils start building up with frost and ice blocking the air flow across them. The evaporator fan motor is only blowing the air on the top of the coils into the fresh food section which isn't cold enough. Now, when you unplugged it and defrosted it, you did the job of the defrost system. Air flow has been restored and the temperatures are normal.....for now. It takes anywhere from a week to three weeks to build up enough frost and ice to stop the air flow again. If you decide not to fix it, you'll need to defrost it every few weeks.
 

Corkhill1

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Orlando Florida
Thank you Rick.
I am reviewing all that you have said, which I appreciate very much. I completely understand your last post, as to how it works.
Today, again it is working correctly, no ice buildup and air flowing into the refrigerator, temps at 0 freezer and 33 refrig.
We will be giving it light duty again today so as not to trigger anything just yet. I will report back with new developments.
At this point I really don't want to start cutting wires to test Ohms and try to rewire them back on. Do you agree?
But, from your post above to confirm you are saying the defrost system components are what is not working, right?
That could include the damper door system, the theormstate for the refrig and theormstate evaporator, what else? or is it pretty much everything else could be wrong?
is it possible that we used the freezer too often, causing the door to trigger the system to shut down and restart, but with so much food in the refrig and using the refrig
so much also the door being open alot that the system overloaded and could not get back to normal, froze up on the evaporator stopped the air flow causing all of this problem?
We have ALOT OF HUMITITY here and our helpers use the refrigerator like it is a restaurant during eating hours. Hope this gets you to feeling good about all the help you given me. love, Linda
 

rickgburton

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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
as not to trigger anything just yet.
You won't trigger anything.


At this point I really don't want to start cutting wires to test Ohms and try to rewire them back on
The heater and defrost thermostat use wire connectors.


you are saying the defrost system components are what is not working, right?
There are three components to the defrost system. The defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, and the adaptive defrost control. One of those components has failed. Use a meter to check the heater and thermostat for continuity. If either one shows open, that would be the part that failed. If both test good, the defrost control needs to be replaced.


is it possible that we used the freezer too often, causing the door to trigger the system to shut down and restart, but with so much food in the refrig and using the refrig
so much also the door being open alot that the system overloaded and could not get back to normal, froze up on the evaporator stopped the air flow causing all of this problem?
The simple answer is no. They're designed for a lot of use.
 

Corkhill1

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
9
Location
Orlando Florida
Dear Rick,
today, everything is normal. I did see some frost on the coil as the temp. went from 0 freezer 33 refrig to -4 freezer and 38 refrig, the whole system went off and later when I looked there was less frost on the coil and the temp was 0 and 33 like normal., so maybe the defrost is working somewhat. You think? I have a friend who will help me with checking the thermostat Ohms so I will report when he comes over. I might add, as a side piece, the real temp in the refrig is NEVER and has never been what the door panel says it is. Usually, it is about 10 degrees higher inside no matter what shelf you place the temp. gauge on in the refrig. I noticed many other people have the same problem. I guess that's how these things work. but, it cold enough. Thanks for all your help. Bye for now, Love, Linda
 

rickgburton

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so maybe the defrost is working somewhat. You think?
Linda, it sounds like you're asking me if it's just "a little bit broken"...lol. In my 27 years repairing appliances I've yet to see one fix itself. Like I mentioned earlier, if the defrost is not working it can take a week or even three weeks to build up that much frost. You'll need to wait that long and see if it builds back up. That is, unless you want to get a DMM and do some testing.

Usually, it is about 10 degrees higher inside no matter what shelf you place the temp. gauge on in the refrig.
Believe it or not, there can be a ten degree difference between the top of the freezer section and the bottom of the freezer section in a side by side. The temperature in the refrigerator is either climbing or falling and never stays at one set temperature. Example: If you set the freezer temperature on 0*F, the temperature will decrease until it reaches -5*F and the compressor turns off. The temperature will increase to 5*F and the compressor turns back on giving you an average temperature of 0*F. The temperature thermomemeters you can buy at the local grocery store are not very accurate and take a while to reach the correct temperature. I saw one that said + or - 10 degrees.
 
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