• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
  • Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

FGMV176NTF Why does the microwave trip the electrical box?

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
Model Number
FGMV176NTF
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
1-5 years
From time to time we notice the microwave trips the electric panel. Once we set the panel again it works fine but randomly it trips again.
The panel has a dedicated outlet for the microwave although it once was used for a hooded vent and when we got rid of the vent we replaced it with an over the range microwave but I had an older over the range microwave and it never tripped before on this outlet.
Is this happening because its connected to the vent outlet or microwave going bad?
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,267
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi,

When does the breaker trip?
During cooking?
Opening the door?
Closing the door?
15 amp breaker? 20 amp breaker?

jeff.
 

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
I notice it trips when you open the door while cooking without pressing stop however, there are times I open the door before pressing stop and it's fine. I'm not sure what amp the breaker is. House built in 2000.
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,267
Location
Ontario, Canada

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
Thanks! Basically the switch is putting out more amps exceeding 15 or 20 amps therefore tripping the breaker?
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,267
Location
Ontario, Canada
Basically the switch is putting out more amps exceeding 15 or 20 amps therefore tripping the breaker?
Nope.
Usually 2 switches will open before the short switch will close....if one of the two switches sticks or doesn't open fast enough the short switch will trip the breaker to prevent the unit from working with the door open.

jeff.
 

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
Thanks! I think there are 2 switches on this unit. I used a voltmeter on an older unit before and for me it was hard interpreting the results of the meter. A pain to have to take down too.
 

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
I opened the front panel and located the switches and was able to pull the connector out but could not remove the actual switch. How do you remove the switch? I am not sure which one it is that's bad but at this point I dont care if I replace them all as they are cheap.
 

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
Looking up parts there are micro switch and door switch. My microwave has three switches. Which ones do I need if I buy all three? Where is the micro located and the door one located? I see one at the top and two at the bottom but don't know which one is which?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
107,975
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Jeff hasn't been on here since Wednesday, he may of had a emergency to attend too.

But we need the full model number of your microwave:

Here's the results I get:
FGMV176NTFA - Microwave
FGMV176NTFB - Microwave

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
107,975
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

Jacobariel

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Texas
I thought Jeff would be back today but I guess not.


Yes, that is strange.

This switch looks to be the one that will fix it:

Jake
Thanks Jake! I hope all is good with Jeff.
The switch on the link you sent me is it for 2 bottom ones, one bottom, or the top?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
107,975
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
The switch on the link you sent me is it for 2 bottom ones, one bottom, or the top?
When you click the link to that switch, You will need ask them in their Question and Answer Section.

Will this meter work to check continuity?
Yes it will, watch the video below.

Jake
 

Kdcrismon

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Arkansas
I have this same unit, no A or B at the end. I already changed door switches. Now there is a humming, whether it is “on” or not. And will trip the breaker opening the door. The switches are good still. Maybe the magnetron? But at what point is it cheaper and easier to just go buy a new one? Lol
 

Kdcrismon

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Arkansas
I did find that the latching plate was not allowing for both bottom switches to engage. There seems to be no adjustment. I then found where the tab for holding the switch was broken. Even after attempting to solidify the switches, same issue. Thanks for the reply!!
 

jeff1

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
24,267
Location
Ontario, Canada
I did find that the latching plate was not allowing for both bottom switches to engage. There seems to be no adjustment
Most don't have any adjustment. You will have to probably replace what ever is bent/broken/loose/worn/ect.

jeff.
 
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