Fisher Paykel DE08-US0 Dryer Turn Timer Knob Buzzing Heating Element Turns on

[Figcastle]

Model Number

DE08-US0

Brand

Fisher & Paykel

Age

More than 10 years

Fisher & Paykel Dryer DE08-US0. The dryer is 18 years old.
My current issue developed after trying to resolve the dryer shutting off after 2-3 minutes.

When I move the timer knob from the OFF setting, there is a buzzing noise. If I let it continue, there is an additional noise. I opened up the dryer to try and find the source of the secondary noise. The noise was lower down on the back of the dryer. I then noticed the heating element was on and I could smell the heat. I was shocked because I did not press the start button. I had just replaced the Timer, WE4M187. The buzzing happened with the old and with the new timer. I immediately unplugged the dryer.

Before the buzzing started, I would restart the dryer multiple times to dry clothes. Turn timer to Automatic Cottons, press Start. Dryer would run 2-3 minutes then shut off. Wait. Press Start again. Dryer would run 5-15 minutes. Shut off. Repeat. Once the clothes were dry sometimes the dryer would shut off other times I would notice it had been running at least 15 minutes and I would check the clothes.

Before replacing cycling thermostat, dryer ran at least 10-15 minutes before shutting off. Normal heat with vent.
After replacing the cycling thermostat, the dryer began shutting off after 2-3 minutes. Normal heat with vent.
After replacing the door switch and cleaning the dryer vents, still shut off after 2-3 minutes initially however, the longer runs ranged from 20-46 minutes. Normal heat with vent.
Next replaced the motor. Initial run 2-3 minutes. Wait. Try again and the dryer would run up to 15 minutes.
Wiped the moisture sensor with soap & water. Normal heat with vent.
Next replaced cycling bias thermostat, interlock switch, and door latch. Wiped the moisture sensor with alcohol. Initial run 2-3 minutes. Wait. 10-15 minutes. Repeat. This time I was running on Med heat with no vent. I saw this in a forum. It was doing fine on Med heat and no vent. Then I attached the vent. It was still doing well. Suddenly, one day I went to set the timer and I heard the buzzing noise. I decided to replace the Timer.

Note: all of the above mentioned dryer loads were partial loads. I have seen the Timer advance on Sensor dry. It advanced on Timed Dry with no heat. The dryer ran at least 7 minutes initially on Timed and Sensor dry with no heat. I turned the dryer off after 7 minutes.

Before the dryer shut issue I had replaced the heating element, lint duct trap, front bearing and rear bearing. The Dryer used to squeak horribly. The Dryer ran find for many months.

I appreciate any assistance.

It is my understanding that Fisher Paykel is really a GE. All of the part numbers listed for this dryer are GE parts.

 

[Jake]

Seems like a Timer problem to me, but I don't have the schematic to verify that, but in TIMED DRY with no clothes in it, it should get hot as well.

That timer is over $200: Timer Dryer WE4M187

Did you pay that much for the timer? Or did you buy a used timer?

 

[Figcastle]

I bought a new Timer Dryer WE4M187 ($205.90) from Appliance Parts Pros. The old Timer knob fits loosely on the new timer. I installed the new Timer and have the same issue with buzzing.

I am not sure if I tested the old Timer Timed Dry Normal Heat with no clothes. It is a possibly. If so, cut off after 2-3 minutes.
Old Timer. Tested Timed Dry Normal Heat with partial load of clothes: Dryer shuts off 2-3 minutes.
Old Timer. Tested Timed Dry No Heat no clothes. Dryer runs at least 7 minutes. I turned it off after 7 minutes since I was just testing.

What is causing the buzzing? Why is the heating element turning on before I press start.

Are the attached what you are looking for?

Thanks

 

[Jake]

I've never worked or had training on these before, so I really don't know.

See the 2nd schematic? TIMED DRY those contacts in black makes the timer move and the heater and motor on.

At the AppliancePartsPros compatibility tool, it says that timer is NOT compatible for your model: Appliance Compatibility Tool--->https://click.linksynergy.com/deepl...ros.com/ge-timer-dryer-we4m187-ap2042592.html

 

[Figcastle]

I don't know why is says that. It is the same timer I took out of my dryer.

Model M460-G
572D520P017
013-97510

Both timers have the above numbers. Both are made in Mexico. The new timer looks exactly like the old timer. It is a better fit than the motor with that harness. I had to install that thing five times before I got it right.

Any help you can provide is better than nothing. I am at a lost. My laundry closet is small so it can only fit a 23 inch wide dryer. I looked at the new GE 4.3 cu ft on Lowes. The first bad review had my issue, dryer shuts off after 2-3 minutes. Why pay $1100 for new dryer that has the same issue I am having? The other bad reviews were not encouraging either.

See the 2nd schematic? Are you referring to the 3 cycle control timer cam chart?

 

[Figcastle]

I tested continuity on the heating element. It has continuity. I also tested where you touch the frame and on of the contacts, no continuity. I also tested the safety thermostat, continuity.

Could the new motor be the problem?

 

[Jake]

See the 2nd schematic? Are you referring to the 3 cycle control timer cam chart?

Yes, the TIMER CAM CHART, see the BLACK BOXES in that chart, it means power is activated through those parts, so the heater and timer and motor should be running at the same time.

Could the new motor be the problem?

Possibly yes, put your hand on the motor when it shuts down and see if its SUPER HOT to the touch, unplug your dryer first.

 

[Figcastle]

Drum & Vent are removed from dryer. Tried a test.
Turned on timer. No buzz. Tried different settings. No buzz. Heating element did not turn on.

Test. Tried with Med heat and Normal heat. Same results.
No drum. No vent. Normal heat/Med Heat. Timed Dry. Held Start button.

Motor started
Both sets of coils on the heating element turned on. Both sets of coils are orange. Can feel the heat.
Top coil goes black after about 1 minute
Inner coil goes black after 3 minutes
Motor is still running.
Let go of Start button.
Motor stops. Coils are black.
Motor is not hot.

Heating element is connected to cycling thermostat, Bias cycling thermostat, & motor.

 

[bigbuck]

When you hold down the Start switch on this GE Dryer the motor will start and current will flow through the Idler Spring Switch -Belt switch and as the motor picks up speed the Contacts on the motor (M6) and (M5) closes and after you release the start switch the motor shut still run and heat should come on! If not look at the wires on that Belt switch or switch itself! That switch has to close for proper operation!Here is a better wiring diagram to go by!

 

[Jake]

Thanks bigbuck.

 

[Figcastle]

The interlock switch works. I just replaced it. When I did my test, I removed the drum so the idler pulley was not engaged. I have been having trouble with the dryer shutting off after a few minutes. A new issue popped up when I turned on the timer it would buzz and the heating element turned on before I pressed start.

What should I next?

 

[Jake]

Check the motor heat switch, it might be stuck closed when the motor is not running.

With the dryer unplugged from the wall, the motor heat switch contacts usually are 1 & 2 on the motor switch.

The #1 & #2 contacts on that black switch where the wires connect to.

Use your multimeter to check continuity between the #1 & #2 contacts. Take the wires off the contacts first, and make sure your dryer is unplugged.

It should be open not closed. Closed would show continuity, which is 0 ohms.

 

[Figcastle]

I did the test. I placed the multi-meter wires on contacts #1 & #2. Contact #1 goes to the door and to the top of the machine. It has two wires. Contact #2 is the heating element.

Multi-meter set to audio for continuity.
Test 1: Contact #1 & Contact #2: No sound.
Test 2: Push black piece back on the motor. Contact #1 & Contact #2: Sound.

The wires on my motor are different colors than shown in this picture.

 

[Jake]

Ok, then it seems like the heat switch is good, I really don't know what else could be causing this problem.

Hopefully another tech. or member that's seen this problem ON THIS MODEL, can shed some light on it for us.

 

[Figcastle]

Thanks so much for trying to help solve this puzzle! I appreciate your time.

 

[Jake]

Glad to help!

 

[Figcastle]

After I performed the continuity test on the motor contacts, I put the dryer back together. What I didn't realize was that I forgot to put the wires back on contacts 1 and 2.

I ran the dryer on Timed Dry then on sensor dry. Timed dry ran for 27 minutes and completed the cycle. I couldn't understand why the back of the dryer never got warm. The vent was removed from the dryer. I could feel a slight bit of warmth in the air blowing out the back of the dryer. Initially, I was putting a couple of items in the dryer and it seemed stuff was getting dry. Of course, I had to do multiple runs to achieve dryness.

After a while I noticed that at the end of the run, the clothes were just a wet as when I put them in the dryer. The clothes has no warm at all. In all cases of drying, I only put in a couple of pieces at a time, never a full load.

I discovered that contacts 1 and 2 were not connected to the dryer when I disassembled it again to check why the back of the dryer was not getting warm. After a 27 minute run on Timed Dry, I noticed the motor was warm. It was not too hot to touch. I also saw that contact 2 (heat) was disconnected from the motor. Later, I discovered contact 1 was also disconnected from the motor.

Tested continuity again. Multi-meter set to audio for continuity.
Safety thermostat. Audio sound for continuity. Display showed OL.
hi-limit thermostat. Audio sound for continuity. Display was all over the place with numbers 0.1, 1.4, 2.5, 13.0. Numbers just kept changing.

Heating Element
top row of coils contact + contact on the left: Audio for continuity. Display showed 19.3 consistently.
bottom row of coils contact + contact on the left: Audio for continuity. Display showed 19.3 consistently.

Motor
Contact 1 & 2: No sound for continuity.
Contact 1 & 2: pushed black piece back. Audio for continuity. Displayed showed 0.1 or 0.2.

Any thoughts?

 

[Jake]

Nope, sorry, like I mentioned:

I really don't know what else could be causing this problem.

Hopefully another tech. or member that's seen this problem ON THIS MODEL, can shed some light on it for us.