[FIXED] Another Kenmore Dryer problem

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NoTalent

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Quick rundown: My wife and I went on vacation and when we came back yesterday, our Kenmore Elite (model# 110.73932102) Dryer was having problems. When we hit the start button, it would only run when we were holding the button down. When we let go it would not keep running... :(

So after a few hours of research on the web, it seems this is a common problem with dryers with the "Evenheat" feature.

So I opened up the dryer and found the board was burned up in certain places. A resistor looked like it had too much current through it and the two capacitors were blown. Has anyone taken pictures of their bad boards?

Here is a picture of mine (with the bad parts highlighted)


Has anyone ever tried to fix the evenheat board? I want to try and fix it tomorrow at work (see if I can get replacement parts and rework it).

Regards,
NoTalent
 

Jake

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Yup , the boards i have changed look burned like that.

I always stock that new board on my truck stock, as Techs we have to change the whole board, You can try to just repair the board, could work, i have never tryed, i always change the whole board.

Jake
 

NoTalent

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Jake

Thanks for the quick reply!!

Do you know what causes the boards to burn up like this? Or is it just after a year or two the board dies? We bought our washer/dryer in June of 2003.

Are there any other tests I can run on my dryer? I saw on the famous "evenheat" page: http://www.applianceaid.com/evenheat.html that you can do a Factory Test--but I do not have a wrinkle guard knob on my model. Do you know of any tests for my model?

Regards,
NoTalent
 

Jake

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Nope, i sure don't know what causes these boards to burn out, i don't know of any other tests you can run.

Sorry, i can't be much help with that, i just replace the boards when they go out.

Jake
 

Mad Mac

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I've seen many of these fail, but only one with that kind of damage. You could try repairing the components, but what made them fail? Something external? Out of interest, you didn't hold the start button down to keep it running, did you? The motor relay is designed to carry the current to run the motor, the board isn't. I once came across one where the customer duct taped the start button to keep it going!

There should be a "tech sheet" in the console where the board is, detailing the test procedure for your model.
 

NoTalent

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Mad Mac wrote:
Out of interest, you didn't hold the start button down to keep it running, did you? The motor relay is designed to carry the current to run the motor, the board isn't. I once came across one where the customer duct taped the start button to keep it going!
Oh man :shock: My wife did that! I took the tape off (it ran for about 15 minutes) so I could examine it more closely.

But it was doing the same behavior before and after she taped the button. Do you have any insight into why the board failed in the first place? Why the dryer stops right after you let go of the start button?

Where inside the console is the tech sheet? I took apart the very top (Where the dials and start button are) and I didn't see any sheet.

Thanks for the info!

Regards,
NoTalent
 

jeff1

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Hi,

**Where inside the console is the tech sheet? I took apart the very top (Where the dials and start button are) and I didn't see any sheet.**

Thats usually where it is....unless someone has taken it out :(

Normally rolled up inside the consol.

jeff.
 

Mad Mac

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I once trained a lad who had previously worked as an electronics tech, he did some investigation on a failed EH board and came to the conclusion that the diodes (some kind of bridge rectifier) weren't up to the job. The "original" EH boards fed an AC relay, Whirlpool came up with a kit to replace them with a revised board and DC relay.

My recollection of how this works is that the board energizes the relay which then feeds the motor. Holding the button in will run the motor until either the PTS (push to start) button gives up or other components on the board give up. Neither is designed to take the motor operating current for a sustained period of time.

For the tech sheet, look at the back of the console section, where there is a notch in the top of the machine - its usually folded up in there.
 

NoTalent

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Just wanted to let everyone know that the dryer is now fixed! I ordered a new part from repairclinic.com and got it very quickly. Popped the new board in and the dryer is working fine.

Thanks for all the help from the people on the board. I wish I could have gotten Sears to pay for it. But after 3 hours of making phone calls I was fed up dealing with their B.S. and decided it wasn't worth my time and paid the $100 to get the new part....:?
 

jeff1

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**Popped the new board in and the dryer is working fine**

Glad to hear that :)

jeff.
 

kellyt

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Hello, I'm having the same problem with model 110.64982300 Kenmore Elite dryer. This web site is wonderful. I'm going to print the previous replies and attempt to see if my board looks the same. I'm not very technical and my hubby is even less technical.:? Hopefully, with your advice I can fix the problem myself. Since this is such a common problem, can't we as consumers do something? Is there somewhere we can complain to possibly get a recall on this? Seems like pure robbery to me!
 

jeff1

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Howdy,

**Is there somewhere we can complain to possibly get a recall on this?**

Just me rambling.....and my 0.87 cents worth :?

Recalls are normally done for a safety issue only ( fire, electricution, ect ) and not for a part(s) failure....sorry!

jeff.
 

Mad Mac

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The design of this board has been revised several times (I remember it having at least four different part numbers during my time at Sears - Jake, how many do you remember?) yet the problems continue. At one time, I kept four of these on my truck just to ensure that I always had at least one. It actually reached the point that when I went to get a new washer/dryer pair, the salesman said to me "I take it you don't want an Even Heat dryer?" Sadly, it's the way of things now. Can anyone here think of an electronic board by Whirlpool that hasn't had a litany of problems?
 

NoTalent

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kellyt wrote:
Hello, I'm having the same problem with model 110.64982300 Kenmore Elite dryer. This web site is wonderful. I'm going to print the previous replies and attempt to see if my board looks the same. I'm not very technical and my hubby is even less technical.* Hopefully, with your advice I can fix the problem myself. Since this is such a common problem, can't we as consumers do something? Is there somewhere we can complain to possibly get a recall on this? Seems like pure robbery to me!
I tried my best to get them to pay for it, but I got the usual runaround. :| If you want help I'm sure the guys here can walk you through replacing the part.
 

Jake

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Mad Mac wrote:
The design of this board has been revised several times (I remember it having at least four different part numbers during my time at Sears - Jake, how many do you remember?)
To many! I stopped counting after 2, that was enough for me.
I just go into my SST Lap Top and look it up by the model #,
but i always check my service flashes first.

Jake
 

Jake

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kellyt wrote:
This web site is wonderful.
Thank you Kellyt for your kind words, we try to help everyone.:)

Jake
 

kellyt

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Hello again. Well, I told ya I wasn't very technical! Can anyone explain how to get the top panel (where the buttons/knobs are located) off? I looked at a diagram on the Sears web-site but couldn't figure it out. I took the 2 screws off the very back, pulled the knobs off and attempted to pry the panel off with a flat-head but no luck. I was afraid I would break it if I pryed too hard. With 2 neighbors visiting, 4 dogs and 5 kids running around, I finally gave up. I'm hoping with your wisdom and the kids at school, I'll be more successfull tomorrow! Thanks in advance for your help & time! KT
 

Jake

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On your model you have 2 clips under the console front on both end sides, get a flat putty knife and push in under the console on the right side, while pushing in with the putty knife on the clip, lift the console upwards. Do the exact same for the Left side of the console, Then once both clips have been released, rotate the console up and back on its plastic hinges. Please make sure all the power is off before you start this job!

Because once the console is pulled back, it will expose all the parts under the console including the 240 volt power terminal block.

Then you can inspect the board for burned spots like the picture posted in this forum.

Good Luck.

Jake
 

kellyt

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Jake, Thank you. That worked. My board doesn't look like the one above. I can't find any signs of it being burned-up. Other than a little dusty, all looks o.k. I'm going to print off the tests on the web-site NoTalent submitted. I'm just not sure what else to do. Do you feel that even though my board doesn't look burned up that it's still the problem?
 

kellyt

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O.K... I'm a little nervous. Looking at the info NoTalent referred to, I see where the site recommends checking that there is 48VDC at the motor relay. I've never used a voltage reader. I'm assuming the dryer should be plugged in to check the wires on the motor relay-:)Now, I have options on the voltage reader for DC v that read 2.5 - 1000. Where should I set it? I have read to test the 'pink' wires on the motor relay. Which "voltage reader prongs" (red or black or both) do I touch to the pink wires? Bet your getting nervous just reading my questions ha? I'm not going to touch anything till I get a response from someone on how to do this. I really don't need to be electrocuted today!
 
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